Planning a Drawers only Vanity (No doors)- Feedback please?
12 years ago
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- 12 years ago
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Plan feedback please
Comments (8)I like the connection between the laundry and the master closet. I would miss the tub in the master, and if you ever sell -- I know, I know, no one on this board ever intends to sell a house, but, hey, we do have to live in the real world -- I think it would be a problem. You know, I'm sure that the curved island will be inordinately expensive. I'm not against a unique splurge here and there (otherwise, you'd be buying a ready-made house), but be SURE this is how/where you both want to spend. Plus, once you have this island, it's going to demand a really great stone of some sort, making it even more expensive. This is a very visible item in the middle of your public spaces, so if it's what you really want, I think it'll be a good choice. Island aside, this is not a kitchen that "works well". You don't have space for the two islands together, and the key players are too far apart from one another. The pantry is great, but don't expect much actual storage in the curved island. I think you're right to go to the kitchen forum. What does work is the bar, which will keep foot traffic out of the kitchen during parties. Also working well is the adjacent dining room: Plenty of entry access, nicely sized. Last kitchen comment: No natural light. If you're doing this curved island as a focal point, and the kitchen is so visible to the living area . . . you really don't want it in the dark. I know some people are dead-set against the master in front, but yours is somewhat "set back" via numerous hallways. Plenty of privacy. I don't see a problem. What I don't like about the master bedroom is that it sticks out so far in front that a guest parking in front of the garage will have to traipse allllll the way around that bump-out bedroom to reach the front door. It's awkward. If you pull the laundry room over adjacent to the A/C room, your master bath /closet could "pull back" a bit, allowing your master bedroom to "tuck into" the spot currently allocated to the master closet. Yes, this would mean walking across the hallway with laundry, but you're only talking about a few steps more, and it eliminates a major problem in front of the house. I see you're looking at a circular drive. These can be problematic. People never quite know whether they're supposed to park there, and if they do, they block in the person behind them. I've only known one house in real life who did a circular drive "right", and theirs was two-cars wide AND had a "pull off" so people could park in that little spot without feeling that they'd block others. I have one good friend who has a circular drive, and no one ever parks in her drive -- everyone parks on the street. I would definitely look into how to get some natural light into the master bath. If nothing else, I'd do a narrow, long window across the top of the mirror . . . though this is right in front of the house, and that's not going to look so good on the exterior of the house. I also like the idea of an open shower. I'd put the open shower in the spot that's now an exterior wall WIC . . . and make what's now the shower the closet /maybe an extension of the already-spacious closet. The open shower tucked around the corner will work nicely for water-containment, AND you can have a window at the end of the shower. I vote against the derpy little double-doors into the bathroom. They never quite work out as planned, the light switch issue being the first problem with them....See More1st attempt at design plan - please give feedback
Comments (18)Marcolo and Blfenton, the box thing in the southeast corner is just that, a box constructed out of drywall to take up the corner. I hate blind corner cabinets, so I would rather "waste" the corner entirely rather than spending money on corner cabinetry I hate, especially since it lets me put more efficient drawer storage on each side of the corner. It also allows me to have tall cabinetry on the east wall and uppers and lowers on the south wall, without having an issue where they meet in the corner. I might put a door in the guest room wall to utilize the 27" x 27" space from the other side to store items we do not need to get to often, like luggage. I agree that having the wall ovens 4' away from the nearest landing spot on the island is not ideal, but it is a big improvement over the 7' walk between wall ovens and counters in our current kitchen. If we move the wall ovens to the east wall, there is still at least a 4' walk to the island. Amanda, the trash pullout and dishwasher are on opposite sides of the sink cabinet. I will also have storage for dishes, Rubbermaid containers, plastic wrap, etc. on the south wall. That way, after meals, the plates and pots all go to the counter next to the sink, leftovers can be packaged, dishes can be scraped into the trash and then go into the dishwasher. When I empty the dishwasher, the dish storage is on uppers on that wall. It sounds like cooktops on islands are not popular. I agree it is not ideal, but it was the only way to get the entire wall of tall cabinets on the east side. My DH loves the look of that wall, and that wall will be highly visible from our kitchen and dining room. I would prefer a real hood to a downdraft vent, but, then again, I have lived without a proper hood for 10 years. Mahlgold, I am having trouble balancing the look we want with function. We plan to do prep on the island and the counter to the left of the sink. Those 2 areas give us more counter space than we have had in any prior kitchen. We do not own a coffee maker or toaster oven. Our only countertop appliances are a KA mixer, small toaster and blender. The mixer and blender will go under the uppers to the left of the sink (mixer in far left corner on an angle). The toaster could also go on that counter, or maybe behind the lift door on the left side of the east wall along with bread storage. We only do breakfast and lunch at home 1 or 2 days per week. I am not sure how many or how deep of drawers to put in the tall cabinets. I drew each side with 5, but it could be 3 or 4. This kitchen has so many more lower cabinets than we have ever had before, that I am not sure what to put in all of them. On the right side tall cabinet, I thought I would want a couple of shallow drawers at the top to store extra trays for the Advantium, pot holders (those will be kept in 3 different locations near all the hot appliances) and wine tools like the opener, Vacu-vin, etc. Maybe a drawer for DH's vast tea bag and leaf collection and related tools. We could put all the empty baby bottles and plastic plates for the kids in a drawer in that tower or on the south wall. On the left side tall cabinet, I could use the drawers to store pyrex, roasting pans, pie tins and other baking dishes that might not fit in the drawers below the wall oven. My stove top pots and pans and utensils will go in drawers below or next to the cooktop on the island, as I have several feet of drawers on the south side of the island. The wall ovens were put on the north wall (where they are in the current kitchen) because they are less attractive to look at. Also, if we get the side opening Gagg ovens, they would be difficult to place in the east wall because they need at least 8" between the hinge side of the oven and an adjacent wall, so we could not put them at the very end of a cabinet run. It is also tricky because we are trying to find space for 3 wall ovens: standard 30" convection oven, speedoven/microwave, and steam oven. They are too tall to stack all together in one column and still have at useful heights. I will use the speedoven/microwave more than once a day, so I would be miserable having that oven below countertop height. I also hope to use the combi-steam oven regularly. I feel like we should have 1 full size oven, but that one will get the least use (I very rarely bake or cook large meals), so I could buy the Thermador wall oven with the standard door and put it under the counter somewhere and stack the other 2 together on a wall. The problem with swapping all the cooling appliances to the north wall and the pantry to the east wall as was suggested is that the pantry is only 16-18" deep and the appliances are 24" deep, which would prevent us from having a 24" deep coat closet on the hall side of that space. (We really need a coat closet because the house does not have one now.) I will think about whether we can steal coat space from another room, like the guest room. I am debating the idea of a prep sink on the island. DH looked at me like I was crazy when I suggested a second sink 5' away from the main sink. We do not use the sink a lot for prep. We rinse the veggies, but then put them on a cutting board and move it to where we want to work. We use a large bowl to collect veggie or meat waste when we peel, chop and trim. Sadly, we do not have any family in this state, so no one brings us food to prepare. It is just DH and I in the kitchen now, although we hope our two daughters will like to cook as they get older....See Moreplease help review my kitchen reno...feedback on plans please!
Comments (15)Here's an idea: All perimeter counters and cabinets are 3" deeper than standard: -- Counters are 28.5" deep. This gives you more workspace as well as more room behind the sink for a faucet and to clean behind -- Base cabinets are 27"D. If your cabinetmaker does not offer deeper base cabinets, then pull standard 24" base cabinets out from the wall -- Upper cabinets are 15"D. This should not be a problem - most cabinetmakers today offer 15"D upper cabinets. All zones are nicely separated, which allows multiple people to work in the Kitchen at one time - preparing a meal/snack, cooking, and/or cleaning up. There are four defined Prep Zones, with potential for others throughout the Kitchen. There are 3 Prep Zones on the island - two of which are adjacent to the prep sink. The third is around the corner and while it is not directly adjacent to a sink, it's close to both sinks. There is a 2-bin trash pullout next to the prep sink. The Cooking Zone is on the wall for ease of venting. It is surrounded by ample work/landing space. There are two cabinets on the left for tray storage and pot & pan storage on the right. Additional pots & pans can be stored in the island. The Cleanup Zone is on the perimeter where dirty dishes are hidden from direct view from the Dining Room and Family Room. Both DWs flank the cleanup sink. There is also a 2-bin trash pullout b/w the cleanup sink and the range for easy access from both the Cooking Zone and the Cleanup Zone. Dish storage is located in several locations near the DWs and all to the left of the cleanup sink. This is so your dishes are located near their point of use - the Dining Room. Dishes are also stored near the DWs for ease of unloading. Finally, dish storage is located where someone can set the table or load/unload the DW without getting in the way of those preparing & cooking. Since you have a large family, you probably have more dishes than most (I grew up in a large family - six children as well - and we had more dishes than most.) Dish storage is located: -- A 24" Dish Hutch is to the left of the sink/DW. It has a 15" deep upper cabinet that goes to the counter above a 27" deep base cabinet. I recommend the first 6" to 9" of the upper cabinet be either a drawer or two or separate doors from above so you can open the doors above even when there are items on the counter. A nice thing about this arrangement is that if you are short or while your children are, dish storage is lower than in standard upper cabinets. Instead of starting 18" above the counter, storage starts 9" or so above the counter. [Note, I originally made it 36" wide, but then I remembered that you have a Utility Shaft at the end!] -- There is a 42" dish drawer in the island for additional dishes. The drawer faces the sink/DW side. With an aisle 51" wide, you should be able to have both the DW and the drawer open at the same time - nice and easy for putting dishes away! -- Finally, assuming the Utility Shaft is not as deep as the counter, I propose putting a tall dish cabinet in front of it for additional dish &^ glass storage. The refrigerator and freezer are on the periphery so both those working in the Kitchen and those just looking for a snack or putting away groceries can access it without getting in each other's way. They are also located so non-Kitchen workers do not have to cross through the working part of the Kitchen to get to them. The MW drawer is located on end of the island - near the refrigerator/freezer and a water source. Most MW'd food comes from the refrigerator or freezer and many need water added to them when MWing. As with the refrigerator, the MW is located such that both Kitchen workers and non-workers can access it without getting in each other's way. The Pantry is located just outside the main Kitchen work area. A walk-in/step-in/reach-in pantry is a much better use of space for pantry storage - it's more flexible, it costs much less, and storage is more efficient. The island has seating for eight. Two seats have 18" of knee/leg space for tall family members or visitors. The other six seats have the minimum recommended 15" overhang. This will be find for short to average height folks. There is a 12"w x 27" tall Utility pullout for broom, dustpan, swifter, etc. If you prefer, it could also be turned 90 degrees so it's a 27"W x 12"D cabinet. To the left of the pantry is a Tea/Coffee/Beverage Center. It's located outside the Kitchen proper to allow anyone to make tea/coffee, etc., without encroaching on the Kitchen's main work area. If you'd like, you could add a bar sink and, possibly, a refrigerator drawer or under-counter beverage refrigerator. Note that a bar sink is smaller than a prep sink, so it will not take up as much room. A bar sink is usually small b/c the most use it gets is to fill glasses for water or to fill a coffee maker, etc. Prep sinks, on the other hand, get a lot more use and more space is needed so they are generally larger. . . Zone Map:...See MoreFloor Plan Feedback Please!
Comments (57)@Mark Bischak Your logic is flawed. People are supposed to hire an architect, tell them their needs and the architect will use best practices and creative genius to design the perfect floorplan. Applying that logic Businesses are supposed to hire a marketing firm, tell them their needs and the marketing firm will use best practices and creative genus to create the perfect marketing plan. But Mark Bischak knows more than his marketing firm. He is not willing to hand over the reins for his business to some professional. He drives his own car. He won't trust someone else to implement best practices, help him refine his target, reach the people who are most likely to engage his services - he wants to reach everyone. Mark expects his marketing firm to do their job as instructed by the client. The marketing design professionals cannot be trusted to know their craft better than the client. Applying that logic to the home building process, I better know exactly what I want, I better do my own research and be able to correct your mistakes, as I cannot trust that you know your craft better than your client. I say that I am capable of driving my own car, I am more comfortable driving my own car than trusting someone else to do the driving, but when necessary I travel by plane, sit back and relax and let the pilot take responsibility for reaching my destination....See MoreRelated Professionals
Haslett Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · Hillsboro Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · Eagle Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · League City Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Santa Fe Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Vienna Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Shaker Heights Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Chicago Glass & Shower Door Dealers · Fort Myers Glass & Shower Door Dealers · Homestead Glass & Shower Door Dealers · Houston Glass & Shower Door Dealers · Victorville Glass & Shower Door Dealers · Brea Cabinets & Cabinetry · Newcastle Cabinets & Cabinetry · Gadsden Window Treatments- 12 years ago
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