Thanks for your comments. Yesterday I tried to climb the roof that is at 45 degrees to seal the flashing. But I finally gave it up because it is too difficult to climb it. The shingles have sand. It is very slippery. I will call a roofer to handle it though it is probably not difficulty to fix the problem, sealing it because by further carefully check the top of the furnace pipe in the attic; I did see light through on one side. The water must drop from there. I can fix the problem but I am unable to climb the roof at 45 degrees. Though I will call the roofer, I would like to hear what good ideas you have to climb the roof. If one uses a Harness, he still needs to climb to the top of the roof and nail on it before he can use it, right?

Thanks everyone for your responses/help. We don't have a pool builder because we were owner-builder up to shotcrete. After that, we used a licensed pool plaster company for the tile, coping, stone, plaster (i.e. all the finish work). The owner of the pool plaster company maintains that an epoxy plug is a good fix for the broken conduit. However, we've had 6 licensed pool contractors out to assess the damage and NONE of them said an epoxy plug is the proper way to fix the leak. ALL of them said that the shelf would need to be completely demo'd and the conduit (to all the lights) replaced. At this point the conduit to only 1 lighted bubbler is clear, at least enough to get the wire through. The other 2 pipes are still completely blocked (and 1 is broken). Another thing ALL the pool contractors told us is replastering just the shelf will not look good. They ALL said it will look like a big patch: The color won't match the rest of the pool and there will be a 12 foot wide, highly noticeable demarcation line where the 2 plasters meet and, since the water depth is only 9 inches deep, there's no way you won't see it. (FYI, we thought about adding a line of tile to try to cover up the demarcation line, but quickly realized that it would be an odd look for the design of our pool and just end up looking like we're covering something up. Plus the plaster color would still look different than the rest of the pool. Only one contractor considered doing that at first, but then thought about how it would look with our pool and said there's no way it would look right/not look out of place.) Since all the contractors said our pool is going to look pretty crappy with such a huge patch (and we want our pool to look right) we've decided to replaster the entire pool and are going to recover as much money as we can from the plaster company's surety bond. We're also going to try to find out if they have general liability insurance since they damaged pipes that were already existing when they began their work. 3 of the pool contractors we talked to told us a couple of interesting things that we were hoping to get clarification on: They said since the area of the shelf is more than 10% of our pool it's more likely that the plaster company's surety bond company would accept a full replaster of the pool as the proper fix rather than just patching/replastering the shelf. Has anyone heard of this? Btw, the pool contractor we've decided to go with put in their estimate (and is going to tell the bond company) that a full replaster is the only way to make the pool look right (i.e. not look like it's been patched). Our pool plaster was supposed to be Stonescapes Midnight Blue (it's written in our contract), but the pool contractors we spoke to said that unless the plaster company handed us a warranty certificate from NPT then we didn't get what we paid for: A true Stonescapes product backed by NPT's warranty. They said it's common for pool companies to say that they're going to install Stonescapes, charge the customer a higher $ amount, but then use a cheaper product (i.e. either not use Stonescapes at all, or buy the stones from NPT but mix it with a cheaper plaster not warranted by NPT). Does this sound right? Any input would be greatly appreciated!

New York City coop boards are protected by the business judgment rule https://www.habitatmag.com/Archive2/209-February-2005/The-Business-Judgment-Rule Any thought of seeking a legal remedy against the board has to take this into account. Also, hiring a lawyer against your neighbors isn't a step to take lightly, since you have to live with them. The leaks may be hard to prevent when replacing a flat roof. Are your floors and possessions being damaged, or is it just that the ceiling damage is worse than you expected? If the latter, then I think you should be patient. If the former, they should help protect your stuff. This mess is the downside of living on the top floor. Assume that the board is dealing with you in good faith, unless you have good reason to think otherwise, IMO. I'm sure there's plenty of time to fight later, if they don't make good on your losses after the roof work is done. BTW, their obligations depend on the proprietary lease. They may not have to paint and restore decorative elements.

Hi Chris: Our problem ended up being the window sill of the second floor window, the one above the leak. The top surface of the sill should be angled slightly downward, away from the house, so that water runs away from the wall. Ours was tilted very slightly upwards, so any water that fell on the sill ran back into the brick wall of the house and ultimately into the ceiling above the first floor window. A brick mason replaced the second floor window sill and that fixed the problem. They also did some other work: ground out the existing mortar above the window lintels and added weep holes, and added star bolts to keep the wall deflection from getting any worse. But the direct cause of the leak was the angle of the window sill above the leak.