Do you want to actually talk about why this happens? Quote" Also, observing the caliper and turning or replacing the rotors is all 99% of shops will do if you pay them for it. I'd bet a high percentage of those will screw it up again while putting the wheels back on. " There is a cost for trying to be too cheap, and sure I'll get all kinds of responses where everyone will want to point out how expensive they are sure a shop is, but the facts are that is exactly how pressure has been applied to shops and techs for decades, and has forced auto repair to be artificially under-priced. In short, everyone tries to go too fast and be cheaper than the other guy, and eventually something (quality) has to suffer. Quote" Last time I paid a shop (all ase certified mechanics) to do something for me was to replace the heater core in our '98 durango. Air out the vents has been reduced to zero on the right side, 25% in the center, and to 75% on the left side. In other words, they screwed something up. Was the problem evident right away, and did you go back? Having done several AC/heater repairs on these I can tell you that something doesn't add up and I would have to see this myself in order to get to understand the symptom as you have reported it. Another thing, ASE certification is a start, but to truly be able to work fully with today's cars requires tons of continuing education, and an ever growing expense in equipment. Which again is part of the problem where everyone tries to be too cheap. The shop might have one true master tech, that everyone else has to rely on when problems occur. However did you know there are more lawyers in the state of New Jersey, then there are ASE CMATs in the entire country? Today there are between 600 and 700 registered cars on the street for every CMAT. That number is going to get uglier as my generation retires in the next ten years because the 50+ group makes up more than 70% of the CMATs! Quote" IF we ever get our house sold, and a new one built, and my new shop built, the Durango is going on the rack to be gone through stem to stern by me." If your that capable, instead of building a house that I can't understand the need for, why don't you build a shop, hire AND train techs to work to your high standards and show the rest of us how it should be done. If your as good as you imply you should be able to make a fortune. (sarc*) BTW, prior to doing any brake repairs, one should pull the calipers and gently tighten two wheel nuts, and install a dial indicator and measure the run-out on both sides of the rotor. Mark the high spot on the rotor, and where that high spot is on the hub. Now when the rotor is moved to the lathe, ensure whether the high spot marked on the rotor while it was on the car is still the high spot now that its mounted on the lathe. If it is, your probably good to go, if its not then you need to find and correct for the run-out at the wheel hub assembly. Sometimes that can be as simple as re-indexing the rotor when you put it back on. Other cases require shims that go between the rotor and the hub, or machine the rotor on the car which automatically corrects for run-out. This is what HAS to be done to correct your HHR's issue. Unfortunately, flat rate techs aren't paid to take steps like this, because as you said, some 99% of the time all they do is simply slap on a new rotor, or machine it off the car and stick it back on the car and that is sufficient to solve the problem. But the one time that it isn't we get to see complaints just like yours, its only then that the car moves to the more experienced technician. If you see a tech that measures rotor run-out when assembling every car, you have one who will be slower than average, but have fewer comebacks which means, you should and will pay more than average for his/her work. You cannot call the shop and ask "how much is XXXXXX" first and find them.

No question about it. Not worth fixing by any stretch of the imagination. There maybe cheeper places to get it fixed but imo unless you could to the repairs yourself, no shop could do a good job at a price that would make it worth doing. If you're not picky about make or model, spend $2500 or more on something that's not the most stylish thing on the road, but not falling appart. Do a little research on the car you want to buy to avoid great looking cars that have known serious defects. 1993-ish Ford Tauris for example has a junk box automatic transmission. You could find a perfect shape one of those with 80k miles on it real cheep. Down side is the tranny has about a 99% chance of failing before it gets to 90k miles. Then you get to spend more on the tranny than you paid for the whole car...and still have a junk box transmission that will quit early. You can still find something to get you by for $2500 or so imo.

this design motor routes the coolant thru the alternator mounting bracket using these coolant elbows. you do not have to remove the bracket to change the waterpump but it makes it much easier. there is a small chance whoever changed your waterpupmp may not of removed the bracket. maybe the elbow was good to begin with and the elbow is now cracked and leaking. hard to say. but its a good place to start.

Ok, first off, what engine do you have? 3.1, 3.8, 2.4? I am going to guess 2.4L 4 cyl. I worked for several years as a GM dealer service tech. If you have the 2.4L then you probalby have a blown head gasket/cracked head. These engines are known for that. Not as much as their predecessors, the Quad Four, but they do have the same problems. They are just a slightly updated version the the Quad Four, but with the name 2.4 Twin Cam on top instead. This will most likely be expensive, but you should get it checked out and if needed repaired soon. Water will not damage bearings imeadietly, but the glycol in the coolant most certainly will. If you have the 3.1L then you probalby have a blown intake gasket. These are known to leak oil externally as well as water both externally and internally. If the water/coolant mix gets in the oil, thats bad for the engine bearings. This will not be as expensive to fix, but will be about 6 hrs labor. If you have the 3.8L, there is a plastic fitting, I think on the passenger side, on the engine for the heater hose to connect to the intake manifold. These will crack and leak. Sometimes the come completely off. If this is the case, take the old one off and take it with you to the dealer's parts department. The counter man will probably know what is came off of without you even telling him (that's how common this is). The new one is steel and costs $10 or so. It won't break like the old on. The only trick here is that you may need an easy-out to get the part that is broken out of the engine. The 3.8L also had some issues with the intake gasket, similar to the 3.1L. I have also see the upper intake plenum crack on these and leak water into the engine making you think you have a bad head gasket. Anyhow, check the oil for coolant contamination. If it has coolant in it, it will be foamy or look like a chocholate milk shake. If is looks like this, this is bad. Get it fixed NOW. You will damage the engine. Otherwise, you should probably buy/borrow/rent a pressure tester and check the system for leaks. With this aparatus, you remove the radiator cap and pump up the tester to pressurize the system. There is a gauge on the tester, 16-18 psi sould be good. Them watch the gauge for the pressure to drop. If it does the you have a leak somewhere. Look all around for any seepage or drips. While is is rare and would not be likely on this new of a car, be sure to check for cooland dripping around the starter/flywheel area. There are two freeze plugs in the rear of the engine block, behind the flywheel. If one is leaking you must remove either the engine or transmission to access them for repairs. When you add coolant, do so with the engine cold. Then remove the radiator cap. Fill the radiator completely full. If there is air in the radiator, then the engine can't suck coolant from the overflow tank. Put the cap back on the radiator. Then check the overflow tank and fill it to the cold mark as needed. Good luck, and please let us know what engine you have.