Hi Barb & all, I decided to put the same spalted white elm that is on the ceiling on the floor of the bathroom (and adjacent kitchen) I think it'll be pretty. I still want to use beadboard but I like the wainscoting idea better than using it from floor to ceiling. so tomorrow I'm going in search of wainscoting and in search of white paint samples. I have read there are beadboard tiles which might be a good idea since the bathtub will be next to th e wall, so I'll look for those as well. A couple questions: Where does one find beadboard tile? with regarding white paint choices: since the ceiling and floor will have warm honey toned wood any suggestions as to what will look good? The bathroom has two windows but they are both well shaded by trees outside. I will be picking up paint chips to see what looks good in the room. I have no experience with white paints so if you can help point me in the right direction it might help shorten my search. thanks! Susan

1) Should I go with a wall mounted toilet? Don't even know if my 1952 wall would fit the reservoir - how I can check that? It's also expensive...is it worth the $? We have a new wall mounted toilet in our hall bath and one in our very small master bath too. I really like the extra room and the openess it adds to the room ambience BUT... I don't like the fact that a toilet brush must be used VERY frequently. We have Toto fixtures (Aquia) and before we bought our second one, I thought about getting Duravit but then someone posted on this forum where they had the samee problem with the Duravit toilet. From what I can figure out (I've read this nowhere else), seems because the toilet is wall mounted, the "cavity" is much deeper instead of being a wider bowl like most toilets. Because of this, the procelain isn't wet all the time and "things" stick to it more easily. That is what I'm seeing. I wouldn't change our choice of wall mounted now that I know this but I AM very disappointed. Best decision I made was to include a wall mounted toilet brush adjacent to make it a little easier/quicker to clean. Amazon has a Hansgrohe brand for $50 which works well. Good luck. 2) Where to position the lights - the vanity will be custom made with off-centered sink. Do I need only one LED can in the middle of the room or a pendant above sink etc.? Can't have too much light IMO. If in doubt, add. 4) Wall faucet maybe to save space and easy to clean? No complaints about our wall faucet. would definitely do this again though in the back of my mind, I struggle with the idea of having problems accessing if there is ever a problem. Buy first rate fixtures and have a smart contractor is one thing that eases my mind a bit. 3) Where to put all of the bathrooms accessories - towel holders etc. I don't have any free wall space for that??? I bought a 4 ft wide medicine cabinet, Pegasus (don't get it from Home Depot - there shipping broke ours twice, finally ordered from Plumbers Supply). Also bought two "hotel" towel shelves for installing over the toilet for folding extra towels. You also have room at the base of your tub for a couple of hooks for towels (or a least one) looks to me. Or what about a swing out towel bar between the toilet and the wall with the pocket door. Even with the pocket door, looks like you might have room for installing just one side of thee swing-arm towel bar. http://www.smedbo.com/smedbous/products/loft/ls326.aspx

When they rough plumb, the toilet drain line is a 3" diameter (or 4" diameter) pipe. The center of it is 10, 12, or 14" from the finished edge of the back wall, usually (those are standard sizes). Where the toilet bolts down is also that measurement (10, 12 or 14" from the back wall) and informs you on what type of toilet to buy--a 10 in rough in toilet can sit back far enough to fit a 10 in rough in, but a 12" rough in toilet cannot fit into a 10 in rough in space. If your plumber has to set that toilet drain line at 14" from the back wall (because, say, there is a floor joist under where he'd otherwise put it), even if you chose a toilet that only sat 27" from the wall at a 10" rough in, you have to add 4 more inches to that projection (difference between 10 and 14) and now that toilet projects 31". So, what I am saying, is in case, it may not be JUST about how it will nicely draw out on the floor... but also where your joists under it lie, and where the plumber is capable of running the drainlines.

It's a bit of a tricky space given its size. If you could get one more foot in either direction, it would open up more possibilities. Right now you are a bit limited due to maintaining proper space for code. Given the space constraints you either have to go to small shower stall to get the large vanity or go to a smaller vanity to get the larger shower. I errored on the side of the larger shower with these designs. These are basic sketches, not to scale. It changes the door position slightly. The window can stay where it is with these designs (or you can move to wall B with either option 2 or 3). In either of these designs, you can flip the door to open into the bedroom rather than the bathroom, which gives you an easier space to live with in terms of egress. Option 1. A shower wall is built next to the toilet. a half wall is built next to the vanity, with glass from wall top to ceiling. You could conceivably throw a laundry basket behind the door in the corner. The vanity would end up being about 38", unless you cheat into the shower more. Toilet would be 32" of floor space, but you could cheat into the shower to make it 36" (which is preferred) Option 2. The shower is 3 ft deep and then the width of the room. You could conceivably shrink the width of this a bit and incorporate a linen closet/open storage space where you could store your laundry on the side closes to the door. The vanity is 42" wide and you have 36" of floor space for the toilet. Feel free to swap position of the toilet and vanity here. Option 3. If you want to give up the large shower in favor of the larger vanity, you swap the shower and vanity positions in this design. This dedicates up to a 42" x 42" space for a shower stall (smaller will give you a bit more open floor space), which is still really quite roomy. This allows for a vanity the full length of the wall. The door is repositioned and opens the opposite way from the earlier design, although this design would definitely be better and may even require that the door actually opens into the bedroom.