Wow, 28 years ago, I owned a coin laundry and dry cleaners, then taking in wash and dry fold on the side. I charged by the dry pound rate of 50 cents per pound plus $2.50 per load for detergent, bleach, softner, and wash. If they wanted items from the laundry I did pressed or steamed, I then charged .75 per item. I cannot imagine what the charge in today's market would be. If I were you, I would find a nice, clean, safe coin operated laundry...bring my washing supplies and lysol wipes to wipe off the dry fold table, then do my laundry myself. Items won't go missing and you know they will be done relatively quickly. It's much easier to have several washers going at once, then just get it all dried and folded relatively quickly. I believe so much in this method I put two washers in my home. So did my parents growing up, because Dad also had dry cleaners and laundries. It is WONDERFUL.

" does this guy not understand? The glulam beam pictured is INSTALLED UPSIDE DOWN. To be cost efficient, he's used an "unbalanced beam" where the quality of the lumber on the tension side is higher. Notice how there are no knots in the bottom half of your beam. They stamp "TOP" in big bold letters so the beam can work properly as engineered. Your's isn't. The drywall screws used to secure the jack stud to the beam have little strength in shear. Cluelessness nearing criminality. See page 4, please:" @ Trebruchet Beam: You can imagine how did I feel when I saw this beam being installed upside down (hence photos). I’ve managed to contact structural engineer right after the installation. Luckily, according to her calculations, there is no reason to reinstall the beam, despite of its upside down installation. At the same time, it shows you the level of professionalism of this contractor. If it comes to screws - those are not drywall screws (luckily!), but I still can’t say if it is properly installed. @Kippy-the-Hippy "Was this guy the lowest price bid?" - Nope. "Was a tile sub excluded due to cost?" - From what I’ve seen, it was my contractor’s laborer installing those tiles. "Did you see any of his other work?" - No. We first found him on Yelp (three 5-star reviews…), then hired him based on fairly successful meeting. "Did he do the tile due to other cost over runs?" - You mean him, instead of a sub? I do not think if sub was ever considered. "Did he build all the walls or work with walls and windows already installed? He he have the opportunity in design to eliminate things like that small strip of tile at the ceiling? Or was it like that due to the height of the counter top?" - He’s framed a window and installed a drywall, but actual wall was existing. The edge where tile hits the ceiling would not bother me that much if tiles would come closer to the ceiling - as you can see this gap is massive. Area around the window is the worst though. "If they did not build the ceiling or walls, they might not have been plum to start with. " - That is probably the case, this house is from late 40’s "If he is not done, some of those gaps will be filled, but yes that is a pretty sloppy job especially around the windows. " @Renovator8 "Ceramic tile on drywall is fine in non-wet areas but the tile work is sloppy. It is difficult to tell how sloppy since the tile work and the window trim is not finished. " - I will take more photos today, unfortunately, it is not much of the difference:( "Only the engineer of record can say if the upside down beam is not adequate for the loads. The beams do seem unusually large for a one story house. " - Agree. This is 6x12 (I think), for 19’ span. "The exterior needs special attention because there are two layers of siding and a layer of insulation. Window flashing will be difficult to do well. " - This is something I can not clearly say is done right or not. "Is there a building inspector involved?" - There is, and the final inspection is in a few hours, I’ll keep you posted. "If you are going to refuse to pay him, first find out if there is a state Home Improvement law in effect that might help to protect you and even pay for repairs and/or completion. The biggest risk is that he will file a lien on your property. The local building department might be the place to start. Be careful to communicate with the contractor in writing or at least to confirm whatever is said in writing. He will have an advantage because this is probably not the first time this has happened to him. Therefore, you must plan your moves carefully in advance. Good luck! " Guys, I really appreciate all of your responses, if you see something on those photos that hasn't been discussed, please, let me know. Cheers, Pawel

I agree with Cabot & Rowe. What is the point of a vapor barrier behind the tub. The tub itself is a vapor barrier. Which is pretty much proved by the fact it holds water -- try it yourself and see if I'm not right. (If it does not hold water, you have a more serious problem.) A second barrier behind the tub just traps any minor leaks under the tub and absolutely guarantees mold and mildew. What no-brain wrote your town's building code? I would patiently explain to the inspector, and if no him/her, then his/her superior why this is a very bad idea.

Contractor's dime. I suppose I could think of one angle where you'd need to pay something, though it's a stretch. If his quote hadn't included a vapor barrier, and the finished product will have one, he could argue that you need to pay for it. But said vapor barrier would be all of a $20 sheet of poly, some staples, and 20 minutes to hang it. So perhaps there's justification for $50. If he decides it would be cheaper to spray foam, since removal and replacement of the tub is costly, then you contribute $50 towards the cost of the spray foam, and he eats the rest. BTW, this scenario is the reason that permits and inspections are a good thing, not something to avoid. Inspections ensure you've got a house built to code.