No, that looks very different in flower and stem from TLD. TLD is very compact and has fuzzy branches with a greyish tint, and the blooms have very little white on the edges. Smells like sharp lemon, too.

I have been following this thread and investigating each pepper variety that has popped up here as I am planning a grow out of the best variety. The one I grew a few years back was a C. baccatum that was quite prolific, pendant fruit, nice heat and had the citrus flavor expected: LEMON DROP - hot; Andean Aji Type; 2 to 3 inches long by 0.5 to 0.75 inches wide; medium thick flesh; matures from green to bright yellow; pendant pods; green leaves; 24 to 30 inches tall; Late Season (80-90 days); C.baccatuum. 20 seeds. But I am also looking at a C. chinense variety: LIMON - very hot; 1.5 to 2 inches long by 0.5 to 0.625 inches wide; medium thick flesh; matures from green to yellow; pendant pods; green leaves; 12 to 18 inches tall; Early Season (60-70 days); Uses: Prolific; from Peru; C.chinense. Maybe I'll have to grow both? I realize there are variants, look how many yellow varieties are available at PepperMania, so I'm still looking. NECM

Looking at the pictures you posted, I see the foliage is receiving direct sunlight, but the soil in the container is not receiving sunlight. Your tree's annual winter leaf drop could easily be caused by a problem called Winter Leaf Drop (WLD). When a tree's foliage is in direct sun, the leaves become over heated and need to transpire moisture to cool.. However, is the root system is to cool the roots cannot supply the needed moisture for transpiration. Therefore, the only option the tree has to cool itself is to discard the leaves. For container citrus trees, if the foliage is receiving direct sun, the container also needs to receive direct sun, or be heated by some artificial means. You should be able to find much information on this forum or the Internet about WLD and citrus. - Silica

the 3 year old TLD I was gifted from Jandey's famed TLD rooted from a two tip cutting grew rapidly blooming the first year, taking the second year off, and then bloomed all last summer. The runs between branches is about 1/2 to 2/3 of what yours looks. I think if you were to up pot it to as big of a container as you can and as much sunlight as you can offer you stand a good chance of it filling out. If you could only do one I would suggest more direct sunlight. Based on that size I would have it in a 10 gallon container. Understood that 10 gallons may be too heavy for some to move inside and then back out but the more room for roots means more nutrient uptake and more ability to take strong sunlight. All of which translates to more blooms and more tips. Good luck and hope this helps.