Converting to NG was quite easy. You will need to obtain a hose to hook up the grill to your gas line. I purchased mine at Home Depot. It is made by Charbroil, is a 12' long hose that attached directly to the grill on one end and has a quick disconnect fitting on the other end. The fitting has a female 3/8" pipe fitting on it, so if you have a standard 1/2" pipe stub, all you need is a reducer and some thread tape. I personally didn't use a regulator. Some people feel it is helpful in maintaining a certain pressure, but I haven't seen a need for one. I installed a gas pool heater a couple of years ago and didn't put one on there either, no problems with that. After all, I think that is one thing the gas meter does for all of your appliances anyway. The kit that you will get from Virco should contain all new valves with the orifices in them already. I am not sure why they do that, the valves seem the same and the orifices just screw in. You will also get a new "cage" for the side burner that mounts underneath it. The easiest way, for me at least, was to first remove the knobs from the front of the grill (after of course turning off, disconnecting, and removing the lp tank). Then, if you look under the edge of the control panel, you will need to undo the lp hose, the fitting for the side burner, and the fitting for the rear burner. Once you remove these, then disassemble the ignitors. This is done by simply unscrewing the buttons and removing the batteries, then unscrew the plastic nuts that hold the ignitor assemblies to the front panel, remove the assemblies from the rear of the panel and let hang. Now, you can remove the four screw (two on each end) of the front panel, and the panel will come off. With the panel off you can now replace the valves. You will need to disassemble the side burner to replace that orifice, it is pretty strait forward. The rear burner orifice needs to be replaced as well. Just remove the cover on the rear of the bbq (two screws). I Hope this helps, I am sure you will find it easy.

I purchased the Costco "Classic" back in the early 2000's - I think it was 2000 to be exact. I am STILL using it in June of 2019 (love to read the "I'm afraid of this new product's longevity / reliability" comments posted in 2002). Went through several grill covers - I leave it out all year long - much too heavy to move around and I am in NJ so we don't use it after November open it in late April/Early May. A good Quality Cover is important to keep water out of the side burner compartment (does not drain at all) and main burners - water is bad. But if I took some photos of this grill you would think it was only a few years old. It is by far the best grill I ever owned - replaced the heavy duty high BTU side burner once because of water damage (found an exact replacement - you need to search for the specific model to buy quality parts - not the imported junk sold on Amazon) and the main burners once in 18 years - one of them needs replacement again - I did find the CORRECT heavy gauge stainless main burners on line at a BBQ parts store. As a comparison (you get what u pay for) the thin gauge stainless burners that u get from Big box or Amazon cost around $20 or less for all 3 burners - the correct heavy gauge SS replacement burners cost over $20 each - if u but the cheap ones they will rot out in a season or maybe two - the heavy gauge replacements will last 5 to 10 years. Other than trying to find a quality cover that will last more than 2 years (I am trying a new "King Kong" brand cover - it's more $$$ than the run of the mill types but fit, feel, vinyl thickness seems to be of a much higher quality - last one was a top of the line Sears brand - got about 4 years out of it before it rotted away. The grills are indestructible as is the frame, cover and other parts that fall apart on other grills in 5 years or less, no rust or corrosion anywhere, easy to clean, BTW - I converted mine from propane to Natural gas after the first 3 or so years once NG was available in my neighborhood, I also converted a 40 year old Propane fireplace to Natural Gas.. You don't need a "special kit" from the manufacturer - all that is needed is either replacing the venturi valve orifices on each of the burner controls including the 3 main burners, the rotisserie burner and the side burner, or you can carefully drill out the old orifice to support NG (Propane is under higher pressure and uses a smaller hole than NG) - I did this on the fireplace - you need a special sized (numbered drill bit) drill bit used by machinists - they use numbered bits as opposed to what most people are familiar with like 1/8" may be a #34 in numbered bits - they can be had just google - I think Harbor Freight may carry them as well since they are used by the automotive repair industry as well. Once you look up the correct size hole for Natural gas in your area (sometimes extreme elevation may require a different size than sea level - easy enough to research) I recommend using a drill press (I have a small one that cost under $100) for a perpendicular hole - but the orifice metal is soft brass - this isn't rocket science. If you want to purchase replacement venturis - especially if your not sure if u may move and convert grill back to propane) they are very inexpensive for the kit, size / threads are pretty much standard - any good Fireplace, Professional Plumbing that deals in gas appliances, or BBQ grill stores (on line or retail stores) can provide you will the venturis u need based on the model grill - or worst case - u may have to remove an old venturi and take it to the store or measure it using a caliper or precision ruler & a photo to send to on-line store. There are only a few different sizes & most BBQ grills are one size. The post that said " I heard you need to change burners if u convert from propane to N.G. or u get a yellow flame" is total nonsense - if they were told that by a salesman - they were being ripped off. The burner doesn't care if the fuel is propane or NG - that is ridiculous when u consider how many other gas appliance can run on either fuel and imagine having to change the burners in a 600,000 BTU Pool heater because you changed from propane to NG or visa versa - that would cost about $500... I converted both my fireplace & grill to NG and did not change either devices burners - the FP I drilled out the venturi and the grill my local FP store/repair shop (been there for 40 years - an old timey type shop) had the 5 venturis needed for the grill - again not special for my grill - same size as Weber and other big USA name brands (Ducane, Viking etc...). I think they were something like $2 to 3 dollars each. Taking apart the gas control valve is easy once you get it out of the grill - a bit difficult cause you have to lay on your back to access the valves. REMEMBER you also need to remove the old Propane feed hose assembly from the main valve assembly that has the gas input male flare fitting (should be 3/8" male flare - if you measure the outside diameter of fitting it will measure 1/2" !! that is 3/8", a true 1/2" fitting would measure 3/4" outside diameter - I don't know why gas fittings are listed by INSIDE DIAMETER when all other plumbing is measured by outside diameter - anyway - if it measures 1/2" then it is 3/8" that you would need to order/buy - this can be purchased on Amazon - the hose comes in 6', 12', 25' & 36' either 3/8" or 1/2" fitting - one end - the female 3/8" flare - screws onto grill 3/8" male flare - the other end is a two piece quick connect safety push & click connector - u need to have an outside male NPT (pipe thread) connection from you on/off ball valve - I believe it is 3/8" also (not flare - NPT) - the hose comes with the quick connect adapter that screws onto the 3/8" male NPT - the other end is the "quick connect" female - the hose has the male push on quick connect. The rubber hose is actually 1/2" even though they list this as a 3/8" (I accidently ordered the 1/2" hose & Fitting - 2x as expensive - longest = 24', and huge in comparison to what I needed - as I said before the 1/2" is much less common - harder to find and measures 3/4" fittings, hose etc... - had to send it back to amazon and replace with a 36' x 3/8" worked perfectly & extra length was needed. Having an outside ball valve allows me to shut system off when not in use - in case a critter chews thru my hose - but if you disconnect the quick connect fitting it has an automatic shutoff at the fitting - good if someone pulls off hose at house but doesn't help if vinyl hose is cut or eaten. The hose I have is 15 years old - no leaks. o conversion is relatively simple 2 step process - replace the 5 venturis or remove and drill with correct numbered drill bit sized for NG & replace propane high pressure hose with low pressure 3/8" x length needed - 3/8" flare on grill end & quick connect on hose end - recommend installing outside ball valve to shut of gas when not in use.

thanks alek, i prefer to get their conversion kit. It allows me to go back to propane if ever needed. (Or return it to Costco if some appropriate reason came up.) Of course I can fine tune their converision kit if I decide that 15K btu isn't enough although I'm guessing it will be fine (as spamdamn points out). Anyhow, mainly I'm just trying to figure out if my gas network off the meter is going to be able to handle all this extra capacity. Anyone have any opinions as to how 'over engineered' the code gas tables are? (or how not over engineered)? It is looking like I'll be over tapped if I add the grill unless going back to the trunk of my gas network and upgrading from 3/4" to 1". Of course this assumes that every appliance is on high and all at the same time which would rarely if ever be the case. (Basically a 50K btu furnace, two gas fire places, one 31k btu and one 40k btu, and this. And it is rare that both gas fire places are on at the same time, in addition to the fact that they are both turned down from their max settings, probably to about 75%). Oh - and if anyone knows, do I count the 12' quick connect hose as an additional 12' in my calculations for gas code? thanks, philippe

Well it seems that no one has any thoughts so I will probably have to open up the front panel. Second question: Do I have to use a quick-disconnect hose? Can I just use a regular hose for household appliances especially if I don't plan on moving it around much? Are those hose gonna be weather resistant enough for outdoors? Anybody know how much they are compared to the $36 Charbroil quick disconnect hose of Home Depot?