I can't read the dimensions on this, so you'd have to sketch it out to see how the inches end up being allocated. I'd plan on bathroom fights. The kids are pretty close in age. I'd try moving things around a bit and see how it works out. Take the closet in the middle bedroom off that wall (we'll deal with it later). Put the toilet across from the tub with a small linen closet, maybe some hampers. Consider a sliding door (maybe frosted glass for light) between the sink are and tub area, which allows for two people to use it at once. Add a second sink area where the toilet was. Then take out the master toilet. Slide the closet over. Put the middle bedroom closet to the right of the new master closet location. Put the shower along the outer wall with the toilet next to it. Put a larger double vanity on the back of the closet wall. The vanity depicted looks a bit small for two people/sinks, but I can't read the size so hard to tell. Might have to make the closet a few inches shallower, hard to tell. If it were my home, the kids bath access issue and larger master vanity would be my "wants". Worth playing around on paper a bit, even if it just convinces you it isn't the right choice.

"There is no longer any water showing up on the sheets of paper. Can I eliminate the possibility of a leak in the pipes?" That may indicate that there isn't a leak when the shower valve is off. Leaks behind the wall are rare, but they do occur. You could troubleshoot leaks behind the wall by unthreading the shower head from the arm that comes out of the wall. Crack the shower valve so water starts trickling out of the arm, then close the valve. Now thread a 1/2" cap on the arm (in place of the shower head) and turn on the shower valve. That'll pressurize the plumbing between the valve and the cap. Leave the supply valve on for a while. If water starts showing up within a few hours or the next day, then there may indeed be a leak behind the wall. You can try to get a visual on it at the same time be sliding the shower head escutcheon plate off the arm, that'll allow you to put eyes on the union that the shower arm threads in to. You can also remove the escutcheon plate that covers the shower valve. With the shower head removed, the shower arm capped, the two escutcheons removed, and the water ON, you may be able to see or even hear a mist or spray from any faulty unions. If visibility is restricted, you can also poke a Q-tip or something like that into the holes and see if it comes out wet. But again...leaks behind the wall are rare. I'd be interested in finding out if the floor membrane itself is sloped to the drain. Many installers who use CPE or CPVC membranes improperly lay the membrane flat on the floor, then set sloped mud on the flat membrane and tile on the sloped mud. However, it's a code requirement that the membrane itself should be sloped. Lastly...sometimes these weird water things can disappear on their own over time. Fresh mud beds become wet with their first use, and on these forums we've had a few instances of water behaving badly while the bed saturates over the first few uses. Good luck with it.

A couple of things. How many shower heads will you have? If you don't plan on 2 people taking showers at the same time, I think you could go 5' long on the shower and have that wall line up, with the toilet wall. I don't know if that is important to you. I have a 5' long shower and it is plenty long for showering. I am glad I didn't go bigger because there would have been more to wipe down. I like the window in the toilet room, because it adds a view. I wished there was an entry into the closet from the bathroom, so I would be able to access my clothing/dressing room following my shower. Otherwise I see you have to go into the bedroom and into the entry hall to access the closet. Not too big a deal, unless the bedroom/hall doorway is open. No plumbing in the exterior walls. In Montana it may be against code. I don't know how thick a wall would need to be to accommodate enough insulation to allow plumbing in the walls. Kitchen: I know this isn't part of your question, but have you posted over on the kitchen forum yet? I see 2 things from your plan that might be a problem. The first is the frig next to the cook top. There is a phrase over there that help people understand the layout of a kitchen. It goes, "ice, water, stone, fire". So this means that the ice (refrigerator) wouldn't be next to the fire (cook top). So Refrigerator (ice), sink (water), counter top for prep (stone), then the cooking area (fire), is the order for most efficiency in the kitchen. The second thing, is the pantry. I'd prefer that the pantry opened into the kitchen. But I wouldn't want it hard to access from the car either, for unloading groceries.

I like the idea of separating the vanities. Even if space weren't an issue, I'd prefer one long vanity. I think one looks neater, less cluttered. Of course, that's pure opinion -- no logic behind it. Toilet. I'll keep playing to try to get 42" width for the water closet. And yes. He is showing INSIDE measurements. I'm 100% sure of the right answer here: Verify, verify, verify. How many times have we read threads on this site saying, "But I was so sure ____, and now _____!" Privacy on the toilet is something I highly desire for a variety of reasons. I wouldn't want a bunch of snickering kids waiting outside the door to the shared toilet while I, the MOM, was using it. I also don't want nosey kids trying to take a peek inside my bathroom and heaven forbid, what if you forgot to lock one of the doors....lol!! I consider my bedroom and bathroom my sanctuary/safe haven and I don't want intruders. There's room for both toilets in the OP's plan and with a new build, a separate toilet for the master bathroom is not something she should sacrifice on. You and I think completely differently. I'd label you the Idealist and me the Practical One. My thoughts on the above: - At a certain season of your life, those snickering kids are going to be waiting outside the bathroom door. Period. Whether you have a second toilet-closet door or not, they're strongly motivated to be near you (and is that bad?). Even if you don't actively hear them, your mind is always thinking, "Where are they? What are they doing?" A door may place the kids in a different spot, but the bottom line won't change. - I can see a lovely bathtub as a sanctuary: your own private spot, space for candles, music, your bath products, a place for you to relax after the kids are tucked away in bed. But a toilet? Especially a toilet in a dark closet? I see nothing but function. No safe haven, no tranquility, no restful moment away from the day -- just a 2-minute necessary function. - The real barrier to a bathroom should be politeness, not an actual lock. I mean, whether the door's locked or not, kids should be taught to knock and wait before entering. Consider, too, the "cost" of this toilet-closet sanctuary: More to build, more each week to clean, more bathrooms to which you must shuffle toilet paper and other goods. The more you build, the more you have to deal with on a daily basis; to a point, more is worthwhile, but where does more become tedious instead of helpful? All of the walls and doors and toilets take up too much space!! Agree. And those walls /doors /toilets create more-more-more to clean each week. Definitely go to a showroom and sit in a tub that is 72 and a tub 66 inches. That extra 6 inches is too much for me. I like to read and soak, so if you are just totally laying down, 72 inches would work. Yes, try out tub sizes for yourself. I'm very short, and I also like to read in the tub. I remember one tub (in a vacation condo) that was oversized, and it felt uncomfortable ... I couldn't relax, or I'd "slip down". Since I occasionally fall asleep in the tub, this wouldn't be a very good thing. You will feel tighter in an enclosed space that is 30" wide, than you currently feel with just the knee wall. You can easily accommodate a wider space, even 42" if you move the linen storage elsewhere, and if the wall jog behind the door is eliminated. Common sense!