I purchased the Costco "Classic" back in the early 2000's - I think it was 2000 to be exact. I am STILL using it in June of 2019 (love to read the "I'm afraid of this new product's longevity / reliability" comments posted in 2002). Went through several grill covers - I leave it out all year long - much too heavy to move around and I am in NJ so we don't use it after November open it in late April/Early May. A good Quality Cover is important to keep water out of the side burner compartment (does not drain at all) and main burners - water is bad. But if I took some photos of this grill you would think it was only a few years old. It is by far the best grill I ever owned - replaced the heavy duty high BTU side burner once because of water damage (found an exact replacement - you need to search for the specific model to buy quality parts - not the imported junk sold on Amazon) and the main burners once in 18 years - one of them needs replacement again - I did find the CORRECT heavy gauge stainless main burners on line at a BBQ parts store. As a comparison (you get what u pay for) the thin gauge stainless burners that u get from Big box or Amazon cost around $20 or less for all 3 burners - the correct heavy gauge SS replacement burners cost over $20 each - if u but the cheap ones they will rot out in a season or maybe two - the heavy gauge replacements will last 5 to 10 years. Other than trying to find a quality cover that will last more than 2 years (I am trying a new "King Kong" brand cover - it's more $$$ than the run of the mill types but fit, feel, vinyl thickness seems to be of a much higher quality - last one was a top of the line Sears brand - got about 4 years out of it before it rotted away. The grills are indestructible as is the frame, cover and other parts that fall apart on other grills in 5 years or less, no rust or corrosion anywhere, easy to clean, BTW - I converted mine from propane to Natural gas after the first 3 or so years once NG was available in my neighborhood, I also converted a 40 year old Propane fireplace to Natural Gas.. You don't need a "special kit" from the manufacturer - all that is needed is either replacing the venturi valve orifices on each of the burner controls including the 3 main burners, the rotisserie burner and the side burner, or you can carefully drill out the old orifice to support NG (Propane is under higher pressure and uses a smaller hole than NG) - I did this on the fireplace - you need a special sized (numbered drill bit) drill bit used by machinists - they use numbered bits as opposed to what most people are familiar with like 1/8" may be a #34 in numbered bits - they can be had just google - I think Harbor Freight may carry them as well since they are used by the automotive repair industry as well. Once you look up the correct size hole for Natural gas in your area (sometimes extreme elevation may require a different size than sea level - easy enough to research) I recommend using a drill press (I have a small one that cost under $100) for a perpendicular hole - but the orifice metal is soft brass - this isn't rocket science. If you want to purchase replacement venturis - especially if your not sure if u may move and convert grill back to propane) they are very inexpensive for the kit, size / threads are pretty much standard - any good Fireplace, Professional Plumbing that deals in gas appliances, or BBQ grill stores (on line or retail stores) can provide you will the venturis u need based on the model grill - or worst case - u may have to remove an old venturi and take it to the store or measure it using a caliper or precision ruler & a photo to send to on-line store. There are only a few different sizes & most BBQ grills are one size. The post that said " I heard you need to change burners if u convert from propane to N.G. or u get a yellow flame" is total nonsense - if they were told that by a salesman - they were being ripped off. The burner doesn't care if the fuel is propane or NG - that is ridiculous when u consider how many other gas appliance can run on either fuel and imagine having to change the burners in a 600,000 BTU Pool heater because you changed from propane to NG or visa versa - that would cost about $500... I converted both my fireplace & grill to NG and did not change either devices burners - the FP I drilled out the venturi and the grill my local FP store/repair shop (been there for 40 years - an old timey type shop) had the 5 venturis needed for the grill - again not special for my grill - same size as Weber and other big USA name brands (Ducane, Viking etc...). I think they were something like $2 to 3 dollars each. Taking apart the gas control valve is easy once you get it out of the grill - a bit difficult cause you have to lay on your back to access the valves. REMEMBER you also need to remove the old Propane feed hose assembly from the main valve assembly that has the gas input male flare fitting (should be 3/8" male flare - if you measure the outside diameter of fitting it will measure 1/2" !! that is 3/8", a true 1/2" fitting would measure 3/4" outside diameter - I don't know why gas fittings are listed by INSIDE DIAMETER when all other plumbing is measured by outside diameter - anyway - if it measures 1/2" then it is 3/8" that you would need to order/buy - this can be purchased on Amazon - the hose comes in 6', 12', 25' & 36' either 3/8" or 1/2" fitting - one end - the female 3/8" flare - screws onto grill 3/8" male flare - the other end is a two piece quick connect safety push & click connector - u need to have an outside male NPT (pipe thread) connection from you on/off ball valve - I believe it is 3/8" also (not flare - NPT) - the hose comes with the quick connect adapter that screws onto the 3/8" male NPT - the other end is the "quick connect" female - the hose has the male push on quick connect. The rubber hose is actually 1/2" even though they list this as a 3/8" (I accidently ordered the 1/2" hose & Fitting - 2x as expensive - longest = 24', and huge in comparison to what I needed - as I said before the 1/2" is much less common - harder to find and measures 3/4" fittings, hose etc... - had to send it back to amazon and replace with a 36' x 3/8" worked perfectly & extra length was needed. Having an outside ball valve allows me to shut system off when not in use - in case a critter chews thru my hose - but if you disconnect the quick connect fitting it has an automatic shutoff at the fitting - good if someone pulls off hose at house but doesn't help if vinyl hose is cut or eaten. The hose I have is 15 years old - no leaks. o conversion is relatively simple 2 step process - replace the 5 venturis or remove and drill with correct numbered drill bit sized for NG & replace propane high pressure hose with low pressure 3/8" x length needed - 3/8" flare on grill end & quick connect on hose end - recommend installing outside ball valve to shut of gas when not in use.

I agree that you do need some air, but I don't think that you would be at risk unless you were making it air tight. I would think that would be kind of hard to do though. You still get a lot of air in from the sides where the rotisserie holes and slots are. I think the best source of air though is, as you mentioned, through the front area and around the drip pan. I think that is adequate for combustion air below the burners, I think everything above the burners tends to let more heat out than air in. In looking at other grills like my buddy's Weber, there are no vents above the burners other than the two rotisserie holes in the castings. The only vents are below the burners to let in air. His grill actually heats up quicker than the Virco. I am sure this is mainly because the grill is smaller, but I can't help but think that this is also, al least in part, due to the lack of venting above the grates. I think this holds more heat in kind of like an oven. I have experimented with using some foil to cover up the vents above the rotisserie and was able to keep more heat inside the grill, but like I said, just experimenting.

Stainless heat transfer: True Sierra Club cups are bi-metal. I believe they are aluminum clad on the bottom, so that they will cook more evenly (yes, they are supposed to be able to be used as a little cooking pan). So when a cold cup is filled with a hot liquid, the bottom of the cup will feel hotter than the rim. Cheap imitation Sierra Club cup clones are often just stainless, which seems to transmit heat to the lip quicker than the originals. I don't think stainless transmits heat any slower than regular steel, though. And heat transfer is really not an issue with a grill grating. The flames will get it plenty hot despite its composition. In fact, I think it's better that the grating be heavy gauge like the Virco. It will hold heat better. I did have a problem with the grating with the notch in it warping in the middle. I requested a replacement with no notch (as I reasoned that the notching caused uneven stresses) and Virco sent one promptly for no charge. In/with regard to the burners, I don't have an issue with the Virco's heat distribution, but some people feel it less even than desirable. Some have retrofitted their grills with porcelain briquettes, and claim that works well. Three vs. four burners? Look at the total BTU. The Virco has three 18,000 BTU burners. I'm sure this is equal to if not more than that on the others you are considering. Lastly, please do not discount the Virco infrared rotisserie burner. It is really an excellent feature, perfect for roasting poultry and other meats, with a minimum of cleanup afterwards. Also, if you have a Sam's Club nearby, I suggest you also look at the $599 Members Mark.

Mini-review of Expo's Professional grill and a comparision to the Virco. After five or six years of frustration using my Weber (not enough heat) I decided to consider an upgrade. I really wanted the Weber to work, but I just couldn't get the temp over 450F. One day at Home Depot I saw the Straublestone (misspelled, I'm sure) and felt that was an upgrade at a reasonable price. So, before buying that I shopped around to be sure of my choice. One of the trips included a trip to Home Depot's Expo Center. This place is loaded with all the high-end grills, very painful to go in there because I want to buy ALL of them. ;-) But on this trip they had a new grill called the 'Professional'. It was priced at $1000 (actually $999 I think) and upon inspection it looked almost as good as the others that they had and a considerably lower price. I also strongly considered the $900 'Jenn-Air' which is really made by Vermont Castings. I choose the Pro over the Jenn-Air due to construction. It was almost all stainless where as the VC was not. So I coughed up my $1000 and went home a happy kid with his new toy. Well, about three months later I spot the Virco during a trip to Costco. Sheesh, two hundred dollars cheaper and ALL stainless. So I set out to sell the Pro (at a loss, of course) and buy a Virco. But I ended up with the MM Y0660 as explained earlier in this thread. The Pro grill is made by Charbroil for the Expo Center. They have also introduced a smaller, 45K BTU, 3-burner model for $800. Both grills has an unlimited warranty on the SS, a 10 year warranty on the burners and a 2 year warranty on any other part. Both grill come with a heavy-duty rotisserie standard and no side-burner. I don't know if this is an option, but I don't think that it is. The grill does not include a cover. It did come assembled at no additional charge. These grills arrived at the Expo unassembled and they sub-contract the assembly at their store. The Pro grill, while still a good product, seems to be overpriced when compared to the Virco. The Pro grill uses four 15K BTU cast iron burners for a 60K BTU total, same as the Virco. I was able to reach an indicated 550+ and I could tell that it was noticeably hotter than my old POS Weber. The pro's single biggest weak link is its drip tray design. First, it's fabricated out of epoxied or powder-coated steel, not stainless. Second, it is only accessable from the rear which makes it a bit of a pain to clean. and third, the dang thing is so poorly designed that it barely slides in it's slot. The tolerances are so poor that it wants to come out of its track and fall on one side or the other. It's hard to explain, but trust me, it sucks big time. I was so frustrated that I was in process of designing a new drip tray to be fabricated out of SS to replace that sorry design. I was quoted $100 by a local sheet-metal company. The Pro's rear IR burner is set in a black powder-coated steel panel wheras the Virco uses SS for the panel. The Pro's flame-tamers are make of regular steel and are black powder-coated. These will NOT last very long. They were starting to degrade during the three months that I owned my grill. They have a two-year warranty so you can probably get a set or two for free before the warranty expires. The cabinet on the Pro is inferior to the Virco. The cabinet is a single-walled wrap of stainless that has a two to three inch opening all the way around the top. So it does not offer any protection from the weather, it will get wet in there if the grill is uncovered. On the front are two single-wall doors, just folded SS sheetmetal. The Virco's cabinet is far superior. The Pro's lid is folded stainless sheet that is spot-welded on the sides. The Virco's is welded, ground and polished and as a result looks much nicer. The Pro did have a double wall lid but the gap is quite narrow. In spite of this, it did not discolor on the outside during my short ownership. The temperature gauge worked well and seems to be reasonably accurate but I never calibrated it to be sure. The handle on the lid looked like chrome plated steel, not solid SS as on the Virco. The handles on the sides of the cabinet were also chrome-plated, not SS. The Pro grill uses beautiful, cast & machined SS knobs. These really looks impressive, even better than the Vikings and DCSs. So there is absolutely nothing really wrong with the Pro except for it's price point. It served me very well and I was willing to deal with the non-SS parts as needed. But when compared to the Virco, it seems like it should be priced well under the $800 range. The Virco is truly unbeatable under $1000, at least for now. Who knows, maybe next year Virco will have some competition at that price point. -Terry