Help with Concrete Shower in Bathroom
Cat S.
11 years ago
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Comments (6)
Fori
11 years agoRelated Discussions
Leak in shower means new bathroom! Help me with layout?
Comments (6)Prickly- your second suggestion is what we thought to do, but I like the idea of no door for the shower on the end where you'd enter - to save money. Not sure if code would let us get away with it. I drew it out and it seemed the simplest. I don't believe there is a cast iron shower pan that allows this so we'd have to tile. Or look into cultured marble? I've resisted moving the toilet for cost reasons. It would be less plumbing work than separating the vanity, though....See MoreChoose Bathroom Furniture and Bathroom Showers For Relaxation
Comments (2)I agree with what you said, but can you recommend some good quality and appearance of the bathtub?...See MoreHelp with curbless shower and overall bathroom remodel
Comments (4)Mongo, Tundra, Thanks to the both of you. Part of my concern was how to accomplish the slope with concrete. I'll be blunt, my concrete skills suck and pouring a sloped pad was likely to be well outside my skills range. Tundra, thanks for the pictures, they clarified a great deal. It's true that a picture is worth a thousand words because I don't know how you could describe what you did without at least some drawings but the pictures tell the tale just fine. Above is a piss poor rough drawing of the floor plan of my bathroom. As you can see my intention is to install the drain at the far side of the shower enclosure. My wife has requested that she be able to spray down the whole bathroom with a hose. I'm guessing that to allow for that would make the bathroom "wet"?? My current working thought is to pour the pad in two stages. The first would be about 2 to 2-1/2" below the existing grade. The other would be 2" below that. The demarcation like would be the beginning of the shower enclosure area. The purpose of pouring it so low is so that I could use deck mud to create a dual slope from the edges to center and from right to left (as seen from diagram). I was thinking 1/8" per linear foot of drop for the primary bathroom area and somewhere in the range of 1/4-1/2" drop for the shower proper. I would mud out the preliminary slope with it all rolling into the weep holes of the drain assembly. I would then membrane the whole thing. I'd membrane the walls in the primary bath area up to the 4' mark since that's how high my tile is going to go. I'd membrane the shower area all the way to the ceiling since that's how high the tile will go in there. On top of the membrane I'm planning to make a final deck mud slope that I would then thinset the tile to. I'm using 3/4" pennyround mosaic for the floor and ceiling so adjusting to the slope won't be an issue. As I said, that's the current mental formulation, pending feedback and ideas. As with all battle plans it's not likely to survive contact with the enemy. Mongo, don't fret about rambling. As you might have noticed I'm a bit on the verbose end of things myself. To Mongo and Tundra, thanks again for your prompt response and insightful advise. It was, in part, your commentary on other threads that led me to post this question on this forum. Cheers....See MoreNeed help with bathroom vanity - x-post with Bathrooms
Comments (13)I had the exact same problem. I picked out the vanity I wanted but did not think about the fact that it wasn't made to sit flush against the wall. I spent a month looking for something else, but in the end we decided to go with something shorter and have it not be against the wall. But we were going from 72" to 60" which is probably not workable in your mom's situation. I did find a lot of vanities that did have flat sides and could work in a corner, if you are willing to have the countertop fabricated. They just need to not have any trim detail on the top or bottom like the one you picked out does. I would just look at the ones without the pre-made tops. Because the pre-made top will still leave you with a slight gap because of the countertop overhang. This is an example: Avanity Modero which is sold everywhere, not just at Lowe's. The cabinet we ended up buying is an Avanity Madison which won't work for you, but I assume it is of similar quality. We are pretty happy with it. The drawers and doors have soft close but I do feel like the glides in my Ikea kitchen drawers are better quality. It is very pretty and I wanted a stained wood so I am really happy with our choice. If I had been willing to go with a painted finish, I think we might have stuck with the 72" Modero....See Morephiwwy
11 years agolive_wire_oak
11 years agoCat S.
11 years agoenduring
11 years ago
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