I have seen posts that say the kenmore "elites" are made by made by grand hall. I have the top of the line stainless premium kenmore. it has 4 main burners, 1 back, and 1 side burner. model # 15227. my grill is one step below the "elite" series. retail 549.00 . ive compared mine and the "elite" side by side and they appear to use the same parts (burners , grand hall regulator, and design features)it wasnt quite as fancy but just as solid. even the cooking grids are interchangable.does anyone know if they are manufactured by someone else? it is not one of the bottom of the line junk models. it appears to me that it is the same company.

I also was looking to buy a Grill recently. (See my recent post the Weber Comparison). At a price under $500, the two grills that seemed the most attactive to me were the Weber Silver Genesis C and the top of the line Kenmore premium grill. For the reasons I outline in my post, I am very happy with with my Weber purchase dicision. Although, I do not have any actual experience with the Kenmore Grill on Sale at Sears for $ 499. It looked very interesting for the following reasons: 1) It is also manufactured by Grand Hall like the Member Mark Grill. 2)It has many attactive stainless steel components and it seems to be very well built. 3) It has slightly more BTU's than my Weber for a similiar surface area, so it should get plenty hot if you live in a moderate area. 4) It seems to have more features for less money that the Kenmore Elite Model. 5) Most noteably: it has an IR Rotisserie Burner and and a smoker box that allows you to add wood chips without opening the grill. It you like the stainless steel look, are determined to stay under $500, you don't mind a short warranty period or live in a area were rust can be a problem, then the Kenmore seems like a good product. For me, I am very happy with my Weber and would not go back and buy any other unit in this price range. Good luck with your purchase decision.

My husband is 6'4" and he has no problem with the microwave below the counter. Is it a bit less conveniently located than something at counter level? Yes but who wants a microwave on the counter? Is it better than a microwave at eye level. In my view, definitely--my OTR mircowave was a clear safety hazard for me (short) and kids. Also, having the speed oven under the counter is no worse than having a regular oven (like the range oven) below waist level. Having the speed oven on the wall is clearly ideal, but having it below counter level is by no means a deal-breaker if there is no wall space for it. You have probably seen all the threads that discuss the Sharp microwave drawer, which is in my view the most ergonomic undercounter microwave (although some people complain about it being hard to clean the ceiling). I considered it for a while but decided to go with the Miele because I wanted a true second oven. Remember that when you go with a 36" range, it does take longer to heat up the oven than would be the case with the oven in a 30" range. So, I thought that having a real second oven was very important. I am really glad with the decision. I can't recommend enough going with a 36" range if you have the room to do it. I sounds like you really should, since you already have five burners. We went with four burners and a grill, which I love. It gives us the space up top with the additional functionality of the grill.

How are you filtering your return air? A larger grille will help with air noise, and could help airflow if it's a filter-grille (less restriction) - but otherwise, especially if the ductwork is "necked-down" it really can't help with return capacity. Insufficient return capacity could cause sweating - because the return gets "too cold" from the coil - because there isn't enough volume of air passing over it. A temp drop of over 20 degrees at the coil is bad because it shows that there isn't enough air making it over/through the coil - and sweating occurs because that super cold air could be 50 or more degrees cooler than the air in your attic. The big temperature differential, along with the very high humidity you have there gives you very tough conditions to prevent condensation & sweating. Your ductwork needs to be insulated extremely well, and your return air setup must be setup perfectly to prevent problems. Whatever contractor you choose, be sure to send them packing if they aren't doing things like measuring temps and airflow into each room, and providing you with room-by room analysis of system requirements.