It can probably be presumed that the lot grading for the subdivision is such that lots are all graded to drain independently out to the street on each individual property, so that creating a drainage problem for a neighbor is not likely, but then again, this lot could have slopes and drainage across lot lines, in which case interruption of flow is an issue. My understanding from another post by the OP on this same garden was that theot was flat, and the intent to build raised beds was more for aesthetics as well as making vegetable raised beds that would have improved soil conditions and be easier to work. The idea of a french drain as sketched out by the OP, which seemed to form a circle at the base of the proposed raised beds but didn't actually connect with anything, didn't seem to make much sense in terms of actually solving a drainage problem, in fact, if the lot is flat, they would seem to have been superfluous to solving the problem of a wet crawl space under the house, which sounds more like it was related to roof downspouts unconnected to drain lines to take it away from the house. I had originally understood the back of the lot to have the lot behind it at a higher grade with a slope beyond the proposed raised beds, but the sketches did not appear to support that line of supposition. In any case, I'd suggest that the OP either hire a competent landscape architect or designer/contractor to give him more informed advice on solving his problems and avoiding unnecessary expense or useless construction, or read up more to become better informed about landscape construction and particularly drainage concerns as they would pertain to his Fremont location. As it is, the questions have been too general to give truly informed advice, and not enough information has been supplied to really address all the potential concerns. I'd hope that these discussions have been sufficient to alert the OP that he needs to either hire some informed help, or get up to speed with the information needed to make the best decisions on how to proceed. There are definitely times when it saves money and expense to hire expertise...

Actually, there are code acceptable methods for reducing clearances to combustibles for fireplaces and woodstoves in NFPA 211. Basically, clearances can be reduced by 66%, down to a minimum of 12", by using sheet metal spaced out a minimum of 1" from the combustible wall. Spacers must be non combustible and cannot be placed directly behind the appliance. The sheet metal must extend to the sides, top and bottom to a distance that equals or exceeds the original clearances of the appliance. There must be a minimum 1" air space on the bottom and top to allow for air circulation. Keep in mind that this is for fireplaces, woodstoves and vents. If you use it for a BBQ, you assume the liability risk.

I lost my outside cat of 25 years then the rabbits came in. It took me 2 years to understand how they like new shoots of clematis. Wire fences went up. This year was my best year with my plants. 2 are still blooming. Now another femce goes up this year. I buy 2 to 3 plants a year from Donahues in Mn. Plus specials if i see them.

I took a harder look at your second picture, the one best showing the overall space, and the recent plan that you added. For the life of me, I don't see how what you're doing is in any way, shape or form, adding a positive quality to the overall picture. I'm not trying to be harsh, but just honest and real. You already have a bed defined by the semi-circular paving at the front side (as viewed from the house) and by rectilinear walls and fences at the back side. This seems fine. In this configuration, the paving and walls are the objects, and the left over space -- the bed -- is the so called "white space." As the raised bed you're building -- another object -- comes ever closer to the circular paved area, the "white" space is ever more diminished. The more it is diminished, the more the interface between the front bed corner and the patio becomes awkward. That's just a complaint about the artistic merit of the project. Then, I have to ask what value is it, that there is a raised bed within the already existing bed ...? You're not adding any more planting space. You're just covering existing planting space with higher planting space. And the new planter object itself -- the bright blue board -- seems garish and out of place ... more like the start of something one would expect to see built on a playground. Does the raised planter offer better growing conditions by being 12" closer to the sun? I think not. Gardens and planters change with the seasons and over time. Whenever the raised bed has any vacant spots, some of it will be visible to the neighbors, through the fence. Since the raised planter sticks up higher than the wall behind it, I can't think that it will look good as viewed from the back side. Since there is a lovely garden bed defined and already in existence, with every possibility of being lovely in every way -- if it were just planted -- I don't understand why there is any desire to add a structure that does not seem to be a thing of beauty, in and of itself, into the picture. This is completely mysterious to me. If one wishes to argue that the raised bed most certainly WILL BE a thing of beauty as it sits in the bed, then let them argue it. I can't wait to hear the justification. Personally, I think the bed stands a far better chance of being beautiful, as well as useful, without the addition. If the entire real purpose of the raised planter is to create a manner of dividing some plants from surrounding plants, then I say why not simply do that within the ground level itself ...?