Trade-Wind is one that appears to give you the best bang for your buck. They are manufactured in the US, and their website is umiphx.com. If you click on the section at the top of their home page "For Installers" and then go to that page, under Liners, go to the bottom of the list and click on Typical Liner to Remote Blower & Parts, they give the clearest explanation I've encountered for how a vent hood insert should be properly installed. That website also gives technical specs for all of their products. Appliances Connection is one website that sells Trade-Wind. The PSL74212 42" model may fit your needs. Google old gardenweb posts by Trailrunner. He has had a Trade-Wind insert for quite some time, does grilling and wok cooking, and highly recommends their hoods. I believe Best by Broan has the 24" deep inverted bonnet insert with various component options for more $$$. Folks on gardenweb speak highly of their products. Try AJMadison for their products. This post was edited by Texasgal47 on Fri, Feb 8, 13 at 7:12

You will want high overlap and high flow to deal with grilling. To solve the head interception issue, put the hood high enough to be over the cooks' heads. For overlap estimation, picture the grill effluent expanding at a 45-degree total cone angle from each point on the grill that contains food. As the hood is raised to the desired height, the overlap has to grow to keep this angle captured. A side view sketch will show how much hood depth is needed for a given layout. And as the hood aperture grows to ensure capture, total air flow rate (cfm) has to grow. Containment requires that the air velocity internal to the hood where the effluent would curl around if the blower were off equal the uprising velocity, around 3 feet per second. This velocity times the relevant area defines the minimum flow rate (at full fan speed) and this flow rate has to be pulled by the blower accounting for transition losses, duct losses, filter losses, and house negative pressure when this air is being pulled out of it. (The MUA system that you will likely need will not normally positively pressurize the house.) Blowers are rated at zero static pressure loss, so the flow at the estimated pressure loss is what matters. Quasi commercial cooking in the residential kitchen requires quasi commercial approaches to ventilation. kas

florantha, As long as the voltage and wattage are compatible, you can substitute Xenon bulbs for the halogen. The base of the bulb needs to match. Xenon bulbs burn with less heat and you can handle them with your hands. Here is a link that might be useful: Xenon Bulbs

Mine is from builder. It is one of Thermolec air heaters ( http://www.thermolec.com/en/productView.aspx?type=product&id=77) plus a separate current triggered flapper. The heater tries to heat the air to 15 C (PWM), activated by the air flow. It is a passive one and connects to the air return of the furnace via a 10 inch duct. It is not as sophisticated and highly performed as Kas's.