No, the I found the 100 gallon tank basically free at a garage sale, and figured I'd just throw it in under my workbench for thermal mass. Then it occurred to me that maybe I could raise Tilapia in it? I'd probably have to heat it with some large aquarium heaters, but then the heat just escapes into the greenhouse right? We'll see how that goes... New question for everyone: I'm realizing now that I did not account for heat/air circulation within the greenhouse (when the vents are closed) and what a temp difference there is between the peak and the ground - I need to pull that heat down somehow. I don't really want to take up valuable roof space (I'm planning on hanging plants) with a large ceiling or even rotating fan for circulation, so my plan is this: Run a couple 6-inch round ducts/PVC pipes along the rafters, from the peak down to the ground on the opposite side (single-sloped roof - see pic link), and install inline duct fans in each to suck the air from the peak down. With each inline fan rated at 160 CFM (320 CFM total), and a greenhouse size of 1536 CF, this should circulate the entire structure in about 5 minutes (in theory). One day I'd like to perhaps dig out my planting beds and install a base of rock/gravel and run the heated air through that to better store heat, but that's not this year... Questions: 1) Where along the ducts/pipes is the optimal place to install the inline fans? Top (pushing air down), bottom (pulling air down) or middle? 2) I've thought it might be nice to instead of simply having an open end at each duct/pipe that simply draws and exhausts air at a single point, that it might be better to install a perpendicular pipe at each end, that ran the length of the greenhouse, and was drilled with large holes that would more evenly draw and exhaust the air. However, will this create to much airflow "resistance", and dramatically reduce the circulation rate? I suppose I could always up the duct/pipe size and fans to compensate, but you gotta draw a line somewhere... 3) Anyone ever done anything like this? Here is a link that might be useful: Greenhouse Photos

to grow tomatoes upside down its better to use 5 gallon buckets. You cut a small hole in the bottom and place a sheet of newspaper or a coffee filter over it. Fill the bucket with a good potting soil, shaking occasionally so the soil will settle. lay another sheet of newspaper or coffee filter on top of the soil. cut another small hole in the bucket lid. Put the lid on and turn the bucket over. cut a small hole in newspaper or coffee filter so you can plant the tomatoe. I plant them when they are pretty small as its easier to get them in. Water daily until it get a nice size then flip the bucket over and hang it up. Preferable to a heavy clothline pole or something strong enough to hold it. You can remove the lid and plant something in the top or you can leave the lid on. Water well until the water starts running out the bottom. No staking is needed and tomatoes never lay on the ground. I am doing this method this year. I'm doing two different buckets, hanging them on the old kind of clothline pole that's like a large T. I put chicken wire loosely up the main pole and am growing cucumbers up the pole. So far everything is doing good. Happy Gardening, Gemfire

I haven't done it and personally doubt it is worth the bother if you are actually wanting to grow many tomatoes. It is just one of those unusual, odd things that catches one's attention....sort of like the tree tomato or the aero-garden. People see the topsy-turvy tomato thing and want to try it for the sheer novelty of it. With a 5-gallon bucket, you'd need a really strong, well-anchored hook to support the weight of the bucket, soil, water, plant, etc. If it really were a worthwhile endeavor, everyone would grow them this way, and everyone does not. (smile) If you want to grow it as a conversation piece, or as a novelty or oddity, why not try it? Just don't have high hopes for a big crop. For what it's worth, if I were going to try it, I'd probably use a semi-determinate or determinate tomato (less total weight) and a small-fruited one at that (for better overall weight distribution). It will be really important to keep the thing well-watered, or any fruit it produces will be more prone to blossom-end rot than a tomato planted in the ground. (However, that is true of any tomato grown in any container--right side up OR upside down--as they tend to dry out more quickly.) Also, keep in mind that most places you'd hang a container might get too much shade and it will need lots of sun to produce ripe fruit. Good luck, Dawn

Hi everyone, I want to experiment with "Upside-down" tomatoes this year but have one question that has not been answered on any of the posts I read. For upside-down planting, which type of tomato is best; determinate or indeterminate? I read about folks whose plants have broken off as they attempt to change direction and I wonder if that is because they planted the wrong type. I also read that many have a problem with water weeping on the stem and others who find it necessary to water multiple times per day. I will be trying out an idea for making the bottom of the container a reservoir by a method I have yet to devise, lol. If no one knows which type of tomato is better, I guess I will just have to plant one of each and let you all know after the harvest.