Somewhere (at least in 2007) there was an application guide on Sharp's website that described various ways the unit could be mounted. That information is worth reading. In my case the cabinet above is 15 inches deep and the amount of the microwave oven that protrudes is about the same as the amount of a nearby Wolf wall oven that overlays its (deeper) cabinet. I recall using a wood spacer at the back to adjust the exact exposure. I see no reason why a 12-inch cabinet won't work; the screws that hold the front up that mount through the cabinet above are less than 12 inches from the wall. If your sheetrock is removed for renovation I would advise adding some blocking back there to maximize the mounting strength. I bought mine from AJ Madison, as I recall, and the only minor issue was a side screw that had stripped its hole leading to a rattle when the unit ran. As I didn't notice this over the year it ran sitting on blocks in my family room until I had mounted the unit for the "final" time, I just pushed some Styrofoam up between the side and the next cabinet wall and eliminated the noise. The unit mounts to a metal panel that is attached to the wall. The shipping carton is cut in a designated way and this helps one position the (heavy) unit so it can hook onto the metal panel. Then it is necessary to fix the front screws that mount in the bottom of the cabinet. Do not try to use these screws to pull up the unit into position. They are strong enough to hold it, but their thread form is not strong enough to work against that weight dynamically. Instead, using books or preferably a cabinet jack (not too expensive if you hunt for it on the web), hold the front up against the cabinet and then insert the screws. Preferably use a bit of heat resistant (non dripping is the point) lube such a NeverSieze. The unit works as expected for a microwave oven. Like most microwave ovens, it loses its clock setting during power drops. The MW manufacturers, like those who manufactured VCRs, should have planned for longer time periods to keep the clock up. (Oh wait; those are the same manufacturers.) I have noticed that sometimes when I set the cook time hurriedly and move on, it turns out to be set way too high. I have learned to double check. It might be some button bounce, once an issue for personal computer on/off buttons, or it might be me. The bottom lighting onto black soapstone is a bit dim for any detail work compared to LED strip lighting, but OK as a nighttime aid. I have a toaster oven on the counter below it. This eventually caused the adhesive that holds on the bottom front trim to release. Use of an automotive emblem neoprene adhesive strip cured that issue, but in general I would recommend that if such positioning is used, the oven door be closed after removing the toast. I certainly wouldn't suggest using the toaster oven as an open broiler below the unit. Otherwise it should be fine. The outlet for its power should be in the cabinet above it. It is best if you provide it its own circuit. The door hinges on the left. Overall, a nice unit for its specific niche. Integration results are best with careful planning. kas

I did that exactly, ellessebee. I have the 240V OTR Advantium mounted above the counter. I also have 15" wall cabinets so it fits and works like a charm. I don't think there are any differences in the cooking features between the wall oven and OTR models. The oven cavity is pretty big, because I can fit a half sheet. There are two considerations you need to keep in mind. 1. The OTR does need to vent, because it performs a cooling function after using the non-MW functions. I have mine blow out the front, above the door. In hindsight, I would have run some duct up and over to the adjacent rangehood. 2. The door needs and extra inch of clearance on the hinge side (left) to open. When the contractor first installed it, the whole unit was flush with the cabinet and looked awesome. He was so proud of himself, as was I. I went to use it later and couldn't open the door. It also blocked the exhaust in the front. He had to come back and reinstall it by tacking 2x4s (actually measured 1.5x3.5) to the back wall and then installing it. Now it all works beautifully, while taking a slight hit in the aesthetics. Another benefit to mounting the OTR model OTC is that the underside is heat and moisture resistant. So my coffee maker has a permanent home under there where I don't have to worry about the steam damaging the undersides of the cabinet. Oh, and the built in light of the OTR serves as task lighting for the area underneath. So I also saved money on lighting there. This post was edited by jscout on Mon, Jan 28, 13 at 13:26

[What I wrote for a similar post] I got the Advantium oven and it's just about my most favorite purchase ever. I'm a completely lazy cook. Love to cook but hate to do it as a daily chore. The oven overall is amazing. I bought the 220v and it does so much that we hardly ever use the Monogram convection oven we bought to go with it. Speedcook has almost 200 presets that help it get just the right combination of halogen, microwave, and convection. French fries come out perfect in 4 minutes. Crescent roles perfectly brown in about the same time. Tonight we made fantastic Yukon Gold baked potatoes in 8, better than the 60 minute ones cooked in the oven. Meat, pizza, just about anything comes out great. And my husband can do it with no problem. It also works as a microwave, a regular oven, and a convection oven. It's so terrific and really well worth saving for. I liked the Trivection wall oven too but decided not to spring the extra $600 for it since everyone told me I'd hardly use the regular oven with the Advantium. The store had both the Advantium and a much cheaper Electrolux speedcook. I went and spent an hour trying them both. In the end, the user interface of the Advantium was so much better and easier to use that I decided to go for it. Haven't regretted it for a second. I saved money on the convection oven, fridge, cooktop and microwave to be able to afford it. Britt [Forgot to mention that it has proof and warming features. I've used the warming twice and might use more once the entire kitchen is done.]

The GE online store has prices about 10-15% higher than you will find at most retailers. There's your "discount" right there. No one pays "suggested retail price". Different stores discount a different amount off of that price, but no one sells at that price---except the GE store. And, the rebates they offer require that 4-5 (I can't remember which, it's on the tearoff pad at work) appliances be purchased in order to qualify for the top tier award. If you just buy 2 appliances, it's either $50 or $100. We (and every other appliance retailer) have the same rebate going, and our prices are about 15% lower than GE online. So, I think you can do better than the "friends and family" discount if you shop around. And, don't let the rebate factor into your decision. By the time you pay the upcharge for the Profile over the regular GE with similar features, you've paid more than they're giving you back by far. Yes, you do get more features with Profile, and more yet again with Monogram, as well as more "styling". But, you pay for the priviledge of the branding too. Assess the features you will actually USE in your appliances, and "up buy" only to the model that offers those. Most people don't use ANY of the complex functions of either their fridges or MWs. As far as the reliability/features of GE vs any other competitor, I'd definately buy both the fridges or MWs. They are good products in their price range, with few issues other than the "standard" issue of the ice maker being the most repair prone element. Their new french door fridges from their brand new Chinese factory have dual evaporators (Like SubZero) and truly separate fridge and freezer compartments due to this, so you get no odor transfer and more accurate cooling for both. They've had remarkably few problems for being from a brand new factory and a brand new design to the company. Before the Chinese factory, they sold rebadged LGs as their French door units, like "Kenmore" does. Their MWs are roomy and have good power specs. The most often used feature is the "sensor cook" which works in tandem with their "instant action" keys to keep your food from overheating. It works similarly to how the old temperature sensor probes worked, but without the probe. Most of the other features above the level where that is introduced in the line get rarely used and really aren't worth paying more money for. Their OTR convection MW is overpriced for what it is, and really doesn't offer that much of a second oven experience to justify the price. A small countertop version from a cheaper maker for around $100 will fit the same amount of food in it and not cost so much. Of course, it isn't an OTR, but then again, it's not an OTR. :) OTRs are a PIA and safety hazard for any but the smallest kitchen that HAS to have them. If you can go with an actual vent and separate MW, you'll be miles ahead in both $$ and functionality.