Splitting at the stem end, whether it be radial splits or concentric splits is usually a trait of a particular tomato variety and not so much related to excess water uptake as is true with horizontal splitting which can occur elsewhere on the fruits.

Normally the stem end splits heal over and there's no problem unless xs water opens them and then they can possibly become invaded by just normal bacteria and fungi in the environment and a rotting process can be initiated.

Both Cherokee Purple and Black Krim can be susceptible to stem end splitting and there's nothing you can do about it b/c as I said, most of the time stem end splitting is a trait of a particular variety.

I'd say a good proportion of the varieties I've grown have had splits of one kind or another, I mean the stem splittings not so much the horizontal splitting which occurs mainly when the fruits are at the mature size, green or whatever and torrential rains or over irrigation causes too much water uptake, the epidermis can no longer expand so the fruits split.

I'm assumeing that for both the splitting is concentric with scarred shut circles around the stem b'c neither is particularly susceptible to radial plitting.

What do you see?

Carolyn

While of course you do want to stabilize soil moisture as much as possible, I agree with Carolyn - it is a normal thing associated with many varieties and not really anything you can "fix" or be especially concerned about. Doesn't affect the fruit quality or taste, it is just an appearance thing. ;)

Dave

Okay, thanks a lot, It looks like a split or crack in the skin (not very deep into the fruit). It comes out from where the stem meets the fruit & is attached, moving a bit downward about an inch maybe (downward as in.......if I drew a line from the crack and kept on going I could sort of cut the fruit in half vertically, but not horizontally).
I hope my description makes sence?
Thanks for the info, so it shouldn't be anything to really worry about, thanks for the quick replies.

Okay , please tell me about my "slimy" seedstarting mix on the other thread about the skink who climbed all through my seedlings? Naughty lizard! I replanted the little seedlings into new/fresh seedstarting mix & into a new little pot for now, but wonder why the soil-less mix was "slimy" after the little thing ran around in the pot uprooting the seedlings, any input there? Just curious.
Thanks! :)

Since, from your other posts, you are apparently growing in containers, cracking may be more of a problem as it is much more difficult to keep soil moisture consistent in containers, especially if they are small ones. Drip irrigation systems will help with that problem.

I already commented on the "slime" in your other post.

Dave

TT

the varieties you have are susceptible but it is the growing conditions they find themselves in that are making them crack. Grown under optimal conditions Cherokee Purples and Black Krims won't crack.

A variety may be more susceptible but it is most often changes in water levels that cause cracking. Sudden alterations in the growth rate primarily from water but also from or accompanied by fertilizer levels and/or fast temperature changes of the fruit can induce cracking.

All forms of cracking relate to thickness of the skin (genetics), exposure of the fruit (does it get fast changes in light or temperature by having less foliage cover) and fluctuations in growth rate (fast water and/or sudden nitrogen uptake especially under low potassium conditions).

Maintaining an even soil moisture, good canopy cover and using slow release fertilizer should reduce cracking even in susceptible varieties. Mulching helps even soil moisture and organic fertilizers release slower than other forms. Shading of fruit helps reduce sudden temperature changes. Even under the best growing conditions if sudden heavy rains come cracking still may occur.

Water relations are involved in radial cracking

Radial cracking references:

http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/hort/hil/hil-28-a.html
http://www.cals.ncsu.edu/sustainable/peet/profiles/pp_toma.html

Bursting is a separate form cracking and is related to the thickness of the skin of a particular variety. Again, it occurs mostly from extreme sudden changes in the growth rate due to water and/or fertilizer uptake. Even mulched growing plots with even soil moisture can burst following heavy rains.

Bursting usually occurs at the blossom end but can occur on the side or in a "spiral" pattern.

Overheated, sun exposed fruit can burst in extreme heat.

Here is an example of the spiral form of bursting
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I have had Cherokee Purples burst and show both forms of cracking. They also seem susceptible to another kind of cracking effect similar to concentric called "weather check" on the shoulders of the fruit. These are often smaller cracks than concentric and short of look like stretch marks (essentially that is what they are - stretching of the skin). It is not exactly known why weather checking occurs but it seems to be related to rain/wet fruit and I have seen it more on green shoulder varieties.

A fruit can have all three present at one time.

Hi again, thanks everyone for the input, Dave, some are in pots but actually the Cherokee Prpl & Blk Krim ar ein the garden, small garden, now it looks like what Mule shows in the photo as the radial cracking. Now it did get cold for our area for 3 days , does this have to do w/ it too? I should of mentioned that originally.... (oops), Thanks Mule for the photo too. Thanks everyone for the input, I'm gonna pay more close attention to my watering for both the tomatoes in the garden & those in the containers, yeah I do notice it is harder to keep containers moister but I'm gonna keep at it, learning lots as I go along. Thanks for all the helpful info everyone! :)