I don't have 12 years industry experience but I do know how to spell GE Monogram. IMO Great, Top notch Fridge - Sub Zero BI48S/O n/a 48" built-in side x side, panel ready Range Top - Capital Culinarian CGRT366NG s/s 36" gas rangetop, 6 burner Microwave - Sharp KB6524PS s/s 24" microwave drawer Fine Warming Drawer - Kitchen Aid KEWS105SSS s/s 30" warming drawer Bar / Wine Storage - U-Line 2275ZWCOL-00 n/a 24" undercounter wine unit, 2 zone I like the least. Hood - Vent-a-Hood PRH18342SS s/s 42"w x 18"h Professional style hood, 1350 cfm equivalent When a company is selling you a "magical" systen that is just as good as other companies with higher specifications beware. At least have the sales rep show you how you clean this system. I would look at Prestige,Modern Aire, even the 1000cfm Kobe before I would buy the VAH. Bar Ice Machine - U-Line CLR2160B-40 black 15" undercounter clear ice machine This is likely to last you 2-4 years before it starts giving you headaches. I would get the Hoshizaki.I think all the appliances on your preliminary list are made in the USA and with the exception of Sharp are American companies. The Hoshi is made in Georgia and is a lot more reliable.It is not a little better but a lot better.It is twice the price but worth it IMO. A notch below is Manitowoc. They make under-counter ice-makers for Sub-Zero. Very expensive. They sell equivalent units under their own brand without residential warranties. Double Oven - Viking VEDO130SS s/s 30" "1" series double oven, upper convection (CLEARANCE ITEM) I would strongly prefer the Wolf.It seems Viking oven reliability has improved the last year or two but I would not pull the trigger. Companies like DCS have tradtional knob design. I would look there before buying Viking. I would probably get something else. Washing Machine - Whirlpool WFW94HEXR red 4.3 cu ft Duet front-load washer Dryer - Whirlpool WED94HEXR red 7.4 cu ft Duet electric dryer If it has to be Red & American then there is really no choice. If it just has to be red I would get the equivalent Samsungs. If it does not have to red just made in the USA I would hunt down a pair of Bosch Vision on clearance. Highest washer temps for USA available washer at 170 degrees. On board heater engages in all cycles.True European Wash or as close as USA available machines get. It divides cycles into 12 temperature zones and washes at least 3 minutes in each zone. Removing 99.9% stains and not allowing 99.9% of stains to set it. Dishwasher - Kitchen Aid KUDE40FXSS s/s 24" undercounter dishwasher I would read through linked thread and similar before pulling trigger. I still like made in the USA Bosch better and Miele best. Here is a link that might be useful: Kitchenaid dishwasher vent issues

I did try last week but it's so geared towards commercial, I couldn't really find the right person and sort of gave up. I've been poring over the docs tonight and really do think I could build it in and the guy was wrong. Now, we may be right in that it ideally would have more air space around it, but we do have some room above and beside it - it is just filler there to make everything fit. Do you happen to know how one puts a water filter on an ice maker where it's not built in (like the Manitowoc or SZ? My general contractor said I'd likely actually save $ b/c we can install the filter at the water source below and it can be much bigger and last longer, plus I won't pay up for the specific one that pops into the Manitowoc/SZ. But, I'd love to hear from anyone who did an external water filter for ANY model ice maker. We don't have hard water - and actually Baltimore has really great tap water so it's not a filter for that, I just want to make sure the ice is clean in taste. In the end, it takes a custom panel and I'm really excited about the Hoshi SO... I'm glad I posted and you pushed me back to my original plan! I'll report back on our experience!

Wow, this is an old thread! I went to check my eBay history for part numbers to give you, but it doesn't go back that far. In the basement below the ice maker, I have a McCann pressure booster pump that boosts the water pressure to 90 PSI. After the pressure booster I tee off for the still water and for the McCann Big Mac carbonator (You can find deals on them used on eBay if you're patient). I feed the carbonator and the syrup pumps from a 20lb Co2 tank. You also need a cold plate - whatever you can find cheap - if it's got too many passages, just loop your seltzer through it multiple times, a regulator (get one with two gauges!). Everything is plumbed with .375 pex, and clamped together with oetiker clamps. You need to drill four holes in the back of the ice maker - just be careful and make sure you don't drill through anything important. There's nothing hidden to avoid, everything you don't want to hit is right where you can see it - there's basically only one place where you'll find room for four holes. I chose the hole size based on what the local hardware store had rubber grommets for that also fit my tubing. The back of the unit is foam insulation sandwiched between sheet metal and plastic. The holes in the metal and plastic need to be perfectly concentric to prevent leaks, so use a small pilot drill, and a step drill to bring the holes to size. Making the holes and feeding the hose in is the only real "hard" part. And even then it's only hard because you have to get it right the first time. The two water lines go into the ice maker, clamp to the cold plate (leave enough loops of pipe behind the unit to be able to pull it out of when you need to), then out of the cold plate to the manifold of a Wunderbar bar gun. I wish I had gotten a more traditional seltzer tower, since I hardly ever use the post-mix, but I thought the bar gun was cool! I've had this running since 2016, and so far the only thing I've had trouble with is the pressure booster pump. McCann makes two models. The "cheap" one with the diaphragm pump, and the expensive one with the vane pump (16-2170) - I don't know if the expensive one is good, but I assume it is. I do know that diaphragm pumps universally suck - they're loud and they break. Don't get one! You do need some kind of pressure booster to get the water pressure up to 90-100 psi before feeding it into the setup though.

I have no experience with it, but I would see if you can check out the Perlick. I have their fridge drawers in my breakfast room. They are very quiet and I would expect the ice machines would use the same refrigeration technology. Can't tell you how well the dump factor would be insulated.