Yes, it's true, "poison dart frogs" in captivity are not toxic. While scientists haven't yet pinpointed the exact chemical pathway by which it occurs, Dendrobatids (poison dart frogs) produce a toxin by converting alkyloids present in insects endemic to their environment. The insects get the alkyloids from the plants they eat, etc, etc. So, when you bring a frog into captivity and feed it the wingless fruit flies dusted in vitamin powder, there are no alkyloids to chemically alter to create a dendrotoxin. While it is true that they should not be handled for the sake of the frogs, I can attest to the fact that I have had no reaction whatsoever to holding or touching any of my frogs. As for the temperatures and heating elements mentioned somewhere around in one of these posts, it should be noted that poison dart frogs really don't need to have a heater. In fact, most do best in temps that range between 68-75 degrees F, and can actually be harmed by prolonged temps above 80 . . . so there are some dracs and masde's that can be kept with pdf's (from what I have been told by others). Restrepias seem like another natural choice, as well as other orchids from the pleurothallid alliance that are intermediate growers that love high humidity (80%+ at all times). Anyway, my point is that room temps are best for darts, and you will probably have to plan to ensure that your light setup doesn't overheat the terrarium and stress them. As for other frogs that do well in the 80 degree range, I have read that others find milk frogs (in my opinion, one of the cooler looking tree frogs) need temps in the 80's to thrive. Anyway, I feel like I'm rambling now, so I'll just stop.

Thought this might help a bit =) Care Sheet for the Malaysian Cat Gecko ( Aeluroscalabotes felinus ) The Malaysian Cat Gecko, Aeluroscalabotes felinus , is a medium-sized gecko from the sub-family Aeluroscalabotinae . They inhabit a range that extends through Peninsular Malaysia, Singapore , Thailand , Kalimantan , Sarawak and Sabah . There is a known sub-species endemic to Indonesia , said to inhabit Sanana of the Sula Islands . This ssp. is known as A. f. multituberculatus . They prefer cooler temperatures and predominately inhabit montane forests or lower elevation areas that have moving bodies of water, such as stream beds and smaller rivers. They are designed with an arboreal lifestyle in mind. Entirely nocturnal, they have small retractable claws that are opposing each other. Females are always larger in the nominate species, up to 7 inches, whereas males are typically up to 4 inches in length. They are a rich coffee-colored brown, ranging to a bold rust coloration, with some vertebral striping. Most specimens in captivity today are wild-caught. Some come in very thin and emaciated. Because they are a gecko that retains fat in their tails as a means of survival, this is a good indicator of health when purchasing wild-caught animals. Upon receipt, they should be housed individually in a 10-gallon tank or similar sized glass or plastic enclosure. Substrate should consist of orchid bark or similar non-toxic mulch, mixed with clean soil. Cork bark tubes or flats provide daytime hides and smaller diameter branches for climbing are always appreciated. Provide a small water dish for adults. Live (check for toxicity) or synthetic plants complete the cage furnishings. Temperatures should range between 65-82F. Relative humidity should also be close to the same range, extending on the higher side at times, up to 90% for short periods. Misting is very important to the health and well-being of these geckos , it cannot be overlooked. They will develop a myriad of health issues if their humidity requirements are not met. Handheld bottle sprayers or automated misting systems are a must. All of my tanks are furnished with a combination temperature gauge/hygrometer to measure temps and relative humidity. Set them up individually, as they are a shy and reclusive species. Housing pairs would only be for breeding purposes, and this should not be tried until the acclimation period is over( typically 4 to 6 weeks), and that will be part of another discussion. Feeding and watering are key, and feeding should be done every other day in very small amounts, 2-4 small food items per gecko. Vitamin supplementation should be used carefully, every third feeding at most . Early keepers had specimens that had renal problems, and water and supplementation were suspects. Use filtered or reverse osmosis (RO) type water as a means to hydrate your A. felinus . Your ability to properly hydrate your new charge will mean everything to your new gecko. If you mist daily (do not saturate), feed accordingly, provide correct temps, and use quality water, you will be granted the privilege of owning and properly caring for one of the most unique geckos to date. Copyright © Marcus Quesada

Hi, I'm interested to hear about peoples vermicomposting experience in a condominium. I want to make my own indoor compost, found these how to set up Here and Here. Anyone find red wiggler worms in KL or PJ? Eisenia fetida, known under various common names such as redworm, brandling worm, panfish worm, trout worm, tiger worm, red wiggler worm, red californian earth worm, etc., is a species of earthworm adapted to decaying organic material. I found this online Worm shop in Pj. And starter kit. Has anyone else tried this ?

Thank you all for your kind comments and good wishes. I know I'm far from the only one who has had "interesting" encounters. I've actually had quite a few, but there again I'm not alone in that. Sylvia, I had read about vaccines for dogs and cats but the comments were not exactly favorable. Years ago I had a dog who was bitten in the face by a rattler. His face was very swollen on one side and he lay in the back yard for a week, with a hole forming where he had been bitten, and then he recovered and the hole closed over. yuccarose, I'm sorry that your neighbor's dog was not as fortunate. mcnastarana, snake repellent might not be a bad idea in places where we walk most often and in the garden around the house, and I'll look into that. The rest of the property is too large and too hilly for that to be feasible. Sylvia, please do be careful where you have the Mohave rattlers. Fortunately rattlers want to be left alone. I don't think I could ever live in Africa where black mambas are so aggressive that they will chase you, and their venom can be deadly within 15 minutes. Lisa, thank you for your kind thoughts. I had to chuckle when I read your post, which sounded so much like mine. A baby rattler in the house is no joke since their venom is just as potent as that of adults. stillann, I saw the original Parent Trap movie and do recall the scene about the fiance trying to scare away bears. It's hilarious.