Anatoli, I use sulphur on my apricots even though you are not supposed to. Its interesting that this idea of not using sulphur on cots didn't make it down under, in Australia they spray sulphur on cots. So, I am somewhat doubtful if there is a reason for this restriction, or maybe only a few varieties are sensitive (I never noticed any sensitivity on my several dozen varieties). Anyway its your call on it in the end. I have also used Serenade but I don't think it works as well as sulphur. Sulphur is a good organic spray for brown rot but needs many applications. If you are using synthetics try Monterey Fungi Fighter, it should zap any brown rot and it is one of the less toxic synthetic sprays. For the worms you need to use Surround clay to keep off the curculio, as soon as the fruits are bare (the shucks - flower remnants - have fallen off), or use pyrethrin spray. I don't like pyrethrin since it is a poison, Surround is non-toxic clay. You also need something to protect against moths, oriental fruit moth in particular. Either Surround or pyrethrin will do that. You need to protect against the curc until the cots are nickel sized and from dime sized to maturity you need to protect against the fruit moth. Scott

That looks like some shot-hole on those end leaves. For the ex-blossom parts I can't tell whats going on from the pictures but you may have brown rot blossom blight, it basically rots the blossoms. You need to start doing dormant sprays of copper or lime/sulphur for sure, both at leaf fall and just before leaves come out in the spring. For the brown rot if thats what you have get some Monterey Garden Fungi-fighter for example and spray that right now. Before doing anything, look at more pictures online, in particular of brown rot blossom blight and other blossom blights and see what matches. I do think you have multiple diseases together and that can make diagnosis harder. Pears don't get the same shot-hole the plums get and I'd need to see pictures to know whats going on there. For worms, look at how to control codling moth and oriental fruit moth in the pears and plums, respectively. Scott

Fireduck, I have never had what ails you and until you know what exactly it is you probably won't be able to find a solution. Perhaps you could take a sample peach to your county cooperative extension. You could also try to post a photo here. Anne, the fungicide I use is Indar and I think I pay about $230 for a jug of it capable of making probably a couple thousand gallons of fungicide spray. if you want my spray schedule adapted to materials available to non-commercial growers I can e-mail it to you, but it 's based on conditions in SE NY. It would probably be helpful, however. One of the insecticides I use is called Asana, which is also manufactured and packaged for commercial sprayers but Spectracide's Triazide is a similar compound and widely available in homeowner type quantities.

It could be peach scab. Bacterial spot affects leaves making holes on leaves. It's called shot hole. The leaves on your trees look very good. For me, I treat peach scab with wettable sulfur spray when peaches are about a thumb size. It's very effective on my early peaches and quite good (not 100% scab free) on my late peaches. For stronger chemicals, some use chlorothalonil spray such as Bravo, Echo, Daconil at shuck split. Others use Captan after shuck split. Captan helps with brown rot, too. If it's bacterial spot, you need to treat the tree during a dormant season with copper spray. It will also help with peach leave curl, another big issue of peach.