I've been told on this forum, that I should water 1 inch per week deep and infrequently Hang on there. That advice was for the deepest heat of summer. On the average, the average lawn needs it about weekly in the summer heat and about monthly in the cooler months. When you water, water all it needs at one time to get you through the current time period. YOUR MILEAGE WILL VARY based on your soil condition, type, shade/sun, wind, humidity, cloudy days, fog, dew, grass type, grass density, mowing height, and some other factors I'm forgetting. One inch may not be right. I have a house in San Antonio where they enforce water restrictions in the summer. I am limited to 7 hours of irrigation on Tuesday morning and night. My lawn is in deep shade but the soil is pretty poor at retaining moisture. Still I normally water 3/8 inch per week on the restricted plan. Without the restrictions I would water 5/8 inch every 10 days because my grass can go that long before wilting. But sometimes during an extended drought where the humidity drops very low, I will need to water as much as 7/8 inch per week. This time of year we are watering every 2 weeks or maybe 3. The idea is to allow the soil time to dry out completely at the surface. When the surface is continually moist, then all the weed seeds in the soil will germinate. If the soil dries out, they will not germinate. If your neighbors are watering daily, they have "weed pressure" which they may be resolving with routine use of herbicides. Deep watering works to extend the time between watering. When the water is deeper in the soil, that cool soil is not prone to evaporation and will hold the moisture longer. The roots will realize this and grow down to capture that moisture deeper in the soil. This gives your grass much better tolerance to drought than grass watering only to a shallow depth. Every year we read about someone who went on vacation and their daily sprinkler controls failed. The entire lawn was wiped out overnight because they did not have deep roots developed. There is no magic formula for anyone. You'll have to work out a schedule for yourself. The concepts are as written above. Water deeply and watch the grass to see how long it goes before wilting. As soon as you see any of it wilting, then water it. If it was less than a week, then water longer right away. This time of year it was shorter than 2 weeks, then water longer NOW. If you have problems with water penetration, sometimes called hard or compacted soil, search this forum for the word shampoo and see what you find.

If a plant needs deadheading or cutting back, I just do it all at once, I have neither the time nor the desire to be out there fiddling with plants constantly. They'll be fine - they're plants, they want to grow. Now, that doesn't mean I hack back unjudiciously - different plants are handled in different ways. For example, I know that G. magnificum will not re-bloom yet I want a tight mound of foliage, so right after blooming I just hack them all back right down to the ground, I just have at it, quick and to the point - I know from experience they will quickly sprout new foliage. Something that won't rebloom but needs to be cut carefully for shape, such as a tree peony, needs to have each cut thought about carefully, just as one would hand-prune any shrub - how it is cut determines the shape for the rest of the reason. Plants that offer re-bloom, something like a salvia, a veronica, a rose, etc. I trace back to an appropriate point to cut to encourage new stem growth and bloom - again, takes more time because the cuts are made on an individual basis as opposed to a whack-down. So, really, the in-season pruning/deadheading is determined by what the plant is - but when I go out there to do it, it gets done, none of that a little bit now, a little bit later. But hey, if you want to experiment and have the time - it can be a good learning experience. :0)

Thanks again Worthy for your contributions all across various topics. I think there is no perfect answer to choos between above two options, but your experience/Knowledge will help me to make best possible decision to minize the mold on concreat walls; rest all i think i can manage. Current State of basement wall: Smalls cracks fixed professionaly. Light Mild Green Mold/Marks bottom of the basement wall were cleanded with concrobium liquid before drylock DryLock anti-mold applied on wall after cleaning two coated applied; French Drail and Sump working; expected to be working; mostly dead dry; Never had water in the basement; in last 4years under my ownership (built in 1994); don't see any water damage/repairs from before also. I Need to decide this week and move forward between below two options; any final recommendation pls. I know no perfect answer with garantee. Option #1 XPS nailed/glued to concreat walll and sealed; As building science Lstiburek said, all concreat walls will crack/leak sometime for sure. Optin #2 imperable from basement wall from top seal to bottom into Cove Joint. ( To do this, I need to remove the fome inserted in the cove joint Tuck the imperable insulation. Means earth gases / vapour has way to get upto the top of the concreat wall but offcource it is tightly sealed all around. Thanks

it's very possible that using the water from this pond is not within code either. Ask your city or county codes department o review the situation and provide guidance on how it's to be used and maintained. They may not know that this person is using the water. There are many reasons why retention and detention ponds, mostly it's for flood management. His use of irrigation, albeit a small percentage of the total pond water, is creating an imbalance in how that pond naturally ebbs and flows with the weather and filtration processes. I agree that an association or committee will help mitigate other issues, that will eventually come up.