I read somewhere that tomato plants will, at there best, only produce around a max of 50 lbs of fruit.

Well then I've got a long way to go!! LOL. I think my best plants had around 10-15 tomatoes. My question is not so much whether the plant can produce more than it's capable. It's whether the plant can be returned to a healthy producing state once it's gotten leggy and sparse.

Ladon - Are they indeterminate?
If so, try pruning a couple of them back to about a foot tall. You still have a good three or more months of tomato season ahead of you.

Another method is to take cuttings and root them, making fresh plants.

Another method is to take cuttings and root them, making fresh plants.

That is what I do for best results.

Dave

What is the difference when you prune back or start a cutting? Just wondering because I was trying to decide if cuttings or pruning back would be better, now that we have our monsoon season.

I would cut them back just above a good sucker or 2. You plants already have good root systems and for cuttings to grow a good root system and produce it would be later production than buying new plants IMO.

I've never tried to do this before, but I was thinking the same thing as taz. I figured with the roots already established, trimming back the plant would cause it to try and quickly rebalance roots vs top growth. And some of my top growth is starting to get some kind of mold or fungus thing, most likely from too much rain. But I don't have any experience doing this, so it's just a theory.

Depends on how far you have to cut back and much time left in your season. But if there's enough time left then it is the difference in plant health and production between a new main stem and an old secondary stem with compromised circulation.

Your choice.

Dave

What sort of fertilizing would you recommend after cutting the plants back? I've been alternating between Tomato Tone and Neptune's Harvest (fish emulsion) about every 2 weeks. But should I give them something heartier to give them a boost?

here in phoenix i prune them back to 1 or 2 good looking suckes and use jobes tomato spikes 3 per plant about 6 to 8" away from the main stem by the time it cools off enough to polinate again they should be full of flowers i'll be getting tomatoes well into december here then i'll prune back again and be set for another spring crop.....we never get a hard freeze in phoenix

Just as an experiment, I might try some plants as cutbacks and some as rooted clippings. With the clippings (only because I've never done this before) would I clip from a sucker. Or would it be possible to just root the whole top of the plant, since I'll be trimming it anyway? In other words, if I have a healthy foot of foliage on the top of the plant, could I root that and get a head start with a larger plant?
Don

Sure. You can use the top. Cut at around 45 degree angle and strip the bottom leaves as the node is where the first roots will strike.

One more question...(for now). I'm assuming I should root the cutting in a pot and then transplant it once it's clearly growing and healthy? What kind of soil should I use? Potting soil? Potting mix? Fertilizer? Sorry for all the questions. I just want to do this right.
Don

Lots of 'how-to root cuttings' posts here - some with pics. Basically 5-6" long, stripped of all but the top set of leaves, planted deep in small container of damp potting mix in shade (out of direct sun), keep soil damp but not soaked. Will droop for about 3 days then take off. Give it 7-10 days and transplant. No fertilizer until transplanted.

Dave

I would give them 1-2 hours of sun but not all day. When transplanted they wont be shocked near as bad.

I've done what Dave says, and I've just stuck 'em in the ground directly in the garden. Both worked.

ladon - you say CA, but not where in CA. From your handle,
I'll guess Los Angeles. I'm in Glendora just east of LA.

Same thing happens every year. When we get into the hot
spells like we've had lately, no fruit forms. When it's
this hot, nothing you can do will help. Just wait a while
and when things cool off (soon I hope), you'll get fruit set again.

Weather predicting folks call for cooler this weekend.
I got my fingers crossed.

Only thing you can do now is water a lot to keep them going.

I give my plants a hosing down (yes, I wet the foliage)
every night in weather this hot. Most of the time that's
not recommended, but in arid SoCal, we can get away with
it. Most places can't do this. The air is so dry here,
the bad viruses can't catch hold before the water dries on
the plants. Mulch is very much recommended if you do this.