i suspect.. that 3 months ago.. was a bit late in regard to proper tree planting time in TX .. increasing transplant shock .. even if done by professionals ... however.. a few more months .. further back .. put the second one more into the PROPER planting time .... shall i presume the second was also as large ... because if it was smaller that also reduces transplant shock ... i understand you have an exceptional emotional attachment to this one .... and you are concerned ..... and you are worried.. but i just dont know what more you want from it.. if it has green leaves .. its alive .. i expect nothing more.. for the first 2 years after i plant a tree/shrub/conifer ... on this expectation.. i am never let down .. and often .. they surprise me by doing more than i expect ... but often.. they just sit there ... presumably growing roots ... and more importantly.. if the buds remain green and viable.. you are simply going to have to wait for it to get its act together ... there is nothing you are going to do.. to a large recent transplant.. to make it perform any better.. or any faster ... just water properly .. and make sure you do not drown it in clay soil .... try to be at peace with it ... and good luck ken

Probably bacterial blight. I'm having the same kind of problem with a couple other kinds on one of the sites I garden. Same property has a history of dying back and failures of some kinds of maples. I am sure this was bacterial blight. There was, however also a problem a few years ago at a local nursery with stock of one of the yellow magnolia cultivars being infested with borers.

There's a nursery on Kenwood road in Cincinnati, near Blue Ash -- something Farm? -- where my mother bought a very large, 7-8ft magnolia that I believe was a Brown Beauty. They delivered it and planted it, but they planted it too deep (or too shallowly) and it died. So they came out and replaced it with one even larger.

It looks like a lack of water. Can't tell for sure from photos how large a tree, but it looks to be a good size. These need a lot of water to get established, especially in a hot climate like Texas. And how it is watered makes a big difference as well - best to use a soaker hose or just the hose (sans nozzle) at a slow trickle, allowing sufficient time for the water to soak down to the base of the rootball. And no amending planting holes, especially if working in a heavy clay or poorly draining soil. Put any desired amendments on top as a mulch if you wish. And get rid of the rubber!! It is a poor choice in terms of ability to leach heavy metals and other chemicals, providing zero nutrients source and low permeability. The only place rubber mulch could be used in good conscience is mixed with playground chips in a kids play area. Not with plants.