Frank, The NAR is our favorite tomato for taste. It's not like Brandywine. We like them both, but we like Neves better. It is a richer deeper flavor. Hope you love it like we do. The thing that bothers me is that you are looking at NAR tomatoes and I'm looking at 4" tall NAR seedlings. What part of AZ are you in? Bob - Northern Light

UPDATE ON PERSINCKETY BRANDWINES Success at lastÂmy Brandywines are setting numerous fruits! I determined that itÂs important to get the plants in as early as possible. I figured that here in Sacramento Brandywines would benefit by providing them some relief from the hot mid-day sun and late-afternoon burning sun. To accomplish this I built a 25 foot arbor five feet wide, under which my tomatoes are planted, that cuts the mid-day sun by 1/3rd and the late-afternoon sun by 2/3rds. My son, a former nurseryman and landscape contactor brought the solution to flowers getting yellow-knuckled and dropping off. He strolled back through his recollections and came up with a distant memory that the cause of this was related to a phosphorous deficiency. He recommended that I fertilize my Brandywines with MiracleGroÂs n-p-p rated at 15-30-15, which I did. This formula has 30% phosphorous. To hedge my bet, I also applied tomato blossom and set spray. Interestingly, the tomato plants, which had little or no fruit set on the lower three feet, made a remarkable recovery. From the date of my fertilization forward and on the upper newer growth of the plants the tomato bracts thickened up, flowers burst out and many fruits set. Between the Sudduth and Amish strains there are over 30 tomatoes showing, with many flowers promising even more. While the blossom and set spray, which is mostly a calcium spray, probably helped, the real change was brought about by the double amount of phosphorous in the 15-30-15 fertilizer. Even though I had amended my soil, evidently these amendments were not providing the necessary phosphorous and may have been causing nitrogen-fix that was working against my plants. Compounding this is the fact that my soil here is sandy. My plants are now just under six feet tall and looking good in every way. I hope this info may be helpful..

It was quite by accident that I came about the Ruumi Baanjan seeds, but I ranked it #3 out of all my tomatoes for taste last year, and my wife ranked it #1. If there is a downside to this variety, it is that there is not enough meat in it to make a good processing tomato, even though it is so thin skinned that a few turns in the blender are all that is needed to have the skins evaporate. Good juice tomato, poor sauce, great fresh eating. About 1/3 of the tomatoes were yellow-orange in a kind of sunburst, while the rest were straight yellow. And since all three plants gave that trait I am wondering if it has something to do with sun or heat. I will grow those seeds (which I separated by tomato color) in different areas of the yard to see how they do.

2009 Tomato Season Report The season started off with late frosts and leafhoppers delaying the tomato plant out. May was rainy and cold and by the time the plants were in the ground it was the second week of June. The Sweet 100 plant is the only exception as it was planted around May 15th. June was very wet with a record 8" of rain and no days above 80*. July was still wet and cool with only a handful of days over 85*. August was a little drier but still fairly cool. September was much drier and warmer which got a lot of the tomatoes to flower but it was to late for fruiting. October started off dry and cool but then turned wetter with temps dipping down to 31*. Most of the tomatoes got hit with disease and frost damage after the cold spell. The last part of the month was warmer with temps in the 50's and 60's but several inches of rain brought a bad tomato season to an end well almost anyway. The sweet 100 plant still has a couple more tomatoes ripening on the vine. I had no late blight in my garden a little bit of early blight and at the end of the season septoria leaf spot started showing up. Brandy boy: - potato leaf, medium about 5-ft, average disease tolerance. No ripe fruit but it did eventually flower and produce a couple of tiny green fruit. They both Had severe cracking issues. Crack size: all the way in to the middle of the tomato. The cracking was partly do to uneven moisture but this variety was still very crack prone. Brandywine Sudduth's strain: - potato leaf, medium/tall 5-6-ft, had a several disease problems especially later in the season. No flowers or fruit. Overall very disappointing. Cuostralee: - Regular leaf medium/tall 5-6-ft, Not great disease tolerance but it was able to grow out of the disease. No ripe fruit but it did flower. Japanese Black Trifele: - potato leaf, short 3-4-ft, top of the plant broke in a windstorm. good disease tolerance but not great. first ripe fruit october 30th after ripening indoors for two weeks, 1 ripe fruit. Taste: Gel is sweet with a slight tang to it. The meat is very mild and a little bit bland but it has a faint smoky flavor to it. No problems with cracking. I saved seeds. Marianna's peace: - Potato leaf medium/tall 5-6-ft, good disease tolerance until the end of the season when both plants yellowed. No ripe fruit. both plants flowered . Neves Azorean Red: - regular leaf, medium height 4-5-ft. It did get shaded by the brandywine plant next to it. Average disease tolerance but it would probably do better with more sun. No ripe fruit. the plant didn't even flower probably partly do to the weather and partly do to the shade. Sweet 100: - regular leaf, tall 7-8-ft , average disease tolerance first ripe fruit mid August, ~ 45 ripe fruit. Taste: Sweet with good "tomato" flavor. size small about an inch in diameter. Looks. perfect round bright red tomatoes in clusters of 5-10. Only cracks when ripe fruit are left on the vine during rain. Crack size : Just the skin cracks open not the whole tomato.