Canada is tougher than the US... yet still relatively easy if process is followed. We've done both import and export. -find out what restrictions there are at your first Port of Entry. Then the second Port of Entry/State reg's or however many times you land at a Port on the way home. If it is direct it is much easier. These restrictions will list disease's, pathogens, to species. Some States allow soil, some do not. Get a list of Indexed Viruses for the State. Apply for a Permit for the species allowed and the ones you will/might be importing. Consider having it sent after you return home based on what restrictions there are = how specific the State is. Find out which area, specifically you will be purchasing from. Cross match the Indexed Viruses, and the province with State you will be Importing from. Cross match the species and CIV' Certified Indexed Viruses. Specify the nurseries, and conditions of Import, bare-root, w. soil, sprayed with what? packaging requirements, contact the Port Inspection people. have inspection done in Japan, by agency, collect paperwork, pay them the 50$. Specify dates of arrival, make apptmnt with Agri Agency on US side. In Japan, note all particulars, address, Proprietor, what virus's on the plant, nemotodes allowed banned, etc, follow required procedure. Boxing/container, plastic bag, sprayed, reduced soil mass, no pot, --wire the rootball to the bottom of the box so it can be turned upside down or any direction. Make it easy to inspect. In between is also seasonal considrations.. in dormancy, reduce leaves/needles, wrap foliage in wet newspaper, and make sure the species is not sensitve to altitude. Import. Pay tariff. take home -pot, if bare root use -dust-dip cutting hormones on roots, place plastic bag over tree, leave air space, start cycling the tree's system. Use heat cable under pot, bring to 82F, Do not water use mist and foliar moisture then water sparingly second day, third... ensure that the tree remains moist on foliage and that the soil is beginning to dry out. One sparing watering is done to settle soil around the roots. Water with a slurry of willow roots put through blender - or use aspirin. No fertilizer. problem is that the vascular pressure differences that draw moisture through the tree have been disrupted, this system needs to be started up again. Remembering that trees grow by the difference of atmospheric pressure. remember that 60% of the ornamental species in the US are from Japan or China, normally via Japan. edzard

You need to talk with the land owner / construction company that will be taking on the project. This can usually be found out by talking to the towns building department as they HAVE to apply for building permits etc. You might also want to talk with the local enviromental department as the builders HAVE to follow strict rules regarding enviromental standards to prevent all sorts of things The contruction owners / contractors may be willing to listen to you and leave the area alone. HOWEVER you have to show them that there is a benefit for this and I don't just mean "because its good for the environment", you will need a strong argument, usually involving saving them money! Remember MONEY TALKS! Find out who their landscaper will be, you might be able to persuade them to replant in a habitat style Also bare in mind that this project will have been in the works for a while which means contracts will have been signed making life very difficult. Get the enviromental department involved as the company HAS to listen to them regarding their requests. If you can get the environmental department involved you may be able to get a "habitat / native" consultant to say what needs saving

For the non-organic folks Daconil has always been the go to protectant for fungal diseases. Ami ***** And for some of us who DO grow organically as well when faced with exceptional conditions such as losing all of our plants to Late Blight. I don't want to turn this thread into a dicussion about Daconil, far from it, b'c I know what happens when something like it is raised as a topic here. Having researched it a lot all I can say is that there are many many links online about it and if the link is to a site that is mainly organic it will be condemned and at other sites not. But for anyone interested in a non-biased review I suggest you go to EXTOXNET, via Google, and take a look. EXTOXNET is a consortium of Universities that have pooled their resources and have info about all manner of herbicides, pesticides, miticides, anti-fungals and on and on. You can also look at the MSDS sheet for chlorothalonil. As I said above, I don't discount all products that are synthetic nor all products that are organic, my main concern being toxicity as I posted above. But I'm not the only one who WILL use relativiely low toxic products, be they organic or not, when faced with loss of ALL of my tomato plants and I grow in an area in Upstate NY where last year there was a very serious problem with Late Blight such that many commercial farmers were wiped out completely as well as many home growers. I respect the right of anyone to use whatever products they might wish to use and in return I would hope that others would respect my right and the rights of others to use a product that we wouldn't normally use in the absence of this special situation with Late Blight. And if someone wants to use Daconil every season to prevent fungal foliage diseases I also respect the right of that person to do so. As long as someone has fully researched a product and knows the possible consequences, either plus or negative, be that an organic or non-organic product, it's my opinion that that person should not be chastised for his or her choice. I also am someone who does not like to bring politics into such discussions when companies such as Monsanto, Syngentea, Dow and others are mentioned. I am fully aware of those companies and what they do and I'm also someone who is in general against GMO's but recognizes that there's lots of hunger in the world and for folks in some countries use of GMO crops may be the difference between nourishment and hunger. Right now I'm dealing with a situation where quite a few folks refuse to buy seeds for Early Girl F1 b/c they say it's a Monsanto product. Some of you may know that Monsanto bought out Seminis Seeds several years ago and one of the compenies of Seminis, Petoseed, is said to be the culprit b'c they developed it and also produce the F1 seed. The fact is that it was bred in France, Petoseed acquired it and for the first three years exclusive rights to sell seed went to Burpee. In recognition of that I was recently able to acquire quite a few seeds of PSR-37 which is an OP version of Early Girl F1 and have been making a free seed offer for it, I pay postage, at another message site, but I have few seeds left right now b'c there's been a large demand for those seeds. it's so easy to comdemn others for the choices they make, but I prefer to not condemn, but rather to respect the rights of others to make their own choices. Thank You. Carolyn

No but I’ve always wanted to. I don’t think propagating these guys buy seed is popular because they’re soooo freakin easy to do by cuttings. I’ve always wondered what a tiny baby String of Pearls looked like. I found a pic online of a baby String of Pearls! Looks like it has one cotyledon and then pearl leaves after that. So cute🌱🙂. Not sure if String of Dolphins can be propagated by seed because it’s a hybrid? I can‘t image that growing String of Pearls by seed would be any different than any other succulent. Keep moist, warm, and indirect light. I‘ve never had success with propagating with just the leaves, but apparently it can be done. I have yet to see it, maybe I’ve just never noticed.