Dyna-Gro packages cold-pressed neem oil. In a 1 quart spritzer bottle, mix: 1 pint very hot water 1 teaspoon neem oil (cold-pressed or virgin oil only - Dyna-Gro packages a very good product) 4 drops Murphy's oil soap (or dishsoap) Shake well and add 1 pint of 70% isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol. Spritz Shake frequently while spritzing. Be sure to cover the entire plant. Don't spray in full sun. A little more Murphy's is ok, but unnecessary if using the isopropyl. Repeat at 1-2 week intervals as needed. Copy paste to your browser: http://homeharvest.com/insectspraysneembased.htm Al

I have several thoughts. Once per week watering is enough, especially for seeded bermuda. I don't have an automatic system so I got this programmable hose timer by Orbit on Amazon. From that I ran two hoses with oscillator sprinklers. If you're getting runoff and erosion there could be several issues. What kind of sprinkler are you using? If it is applying water too fast, then change the heads to low flow heads. A friend in Phoenix ended up with heads that shoot a single stream of water with almost no mist to finally get his water output down. The other issue could be your soil is not accepting the water (hydrophobic). You can fix this with (believe it or not) baby shampoo. Apply at a rate of 3 ounces per 1,000 square feet. Follow that up with 1 full inch of water as measured by empty cat food or tuna cans placed around the yard. Then a week later repeat the water only. A week after that repeat the shampoo and water. That should set your soil up to accept all the moisture you give it. When you say you hit rock, does that mean solid rock or does that mean rocks which could be separated with a breaker bar and cleared out with a shovel? If you are on top of a giant rock, that's one thing. If you are on top of anything else, then the water will at least flow between the rocks. If you are on a slope, could you bring in enough soil to make the slope less steep and build a retaining wall at the bottom to keep it from washing away? It still needs to slope away from the house but only at a rate of 6 inches down per 10 feet away. You're in San Antonio. Our topsoil is mostly white, crushed, limestone, but it works well for St Augustine and bermuda. Is there a reason you're going with seed versus sod? Bermuda sod is almost always TIF 419. It is a much nicer variety of bermuda than any seeded variety. How many square feet are you talking about? If it is 5,000 square feet or less, I would seriously consider renovating with sod. Bigger than that and sod gets very expensive. You're not doing your bermuda seed right. First of all, wait until at least mid May for best results. Bermuda seed wants to be on TOP OF hot soil. DO NOT BURY IT. Scatter it on top of the bare soil and either roll it down or walk on every square inch of it. That presses the seed onto the soil so the soil will help keep the seed moist for germination. Then water very lightly 3x per day for a couple weeks until you have 80% germination. Then cut the watering to once per day for a week. Then cut the watering to every other day but go up on the time. You want the roots to start going deeper into the soil to get the water. After a week of that cut the watering to every 4 days and water a little longer. By this time you should know how long your sprinklers have to run to get a full inch. There is never any reason to exceed that amount. Eventually for the summer you will be watering one inch once per week. Seed with a mixture of Yukon, Riviera, and Princess 77 at a rate of 3 pounds per 1,000 square feet. Best place to get seed happens to be in San Antonio. Douglass King Seed is not close to you. It is inside Loop 410 where I-10 EAST meets it going toward Houston. They are closed on weekends but their website is open at dkseeds.com. Here are the general guidelines for bermuda as reinterpreted from The Bermuda Bible Every month during the growing season Fertilize with a high N fertilizer Every week during the growing season Water a full inch, all at one time Mulch mow 2x at about 2 inches high For your shady areas, the only grasses which will grow are St Augustine and Shadow Turf (a variety of fine bladed zoysia). Shadow Turf comes in plugs and can seem expensive. It spreads relatively fast and look nice, but it's still zoysia. If it gets any problems during the growing season, it will not recover until the following April. St Augustine has the issue of needing opposite care from bermuda. St Aug needs to be mowed at the highest setting and not fertilized nearly as much as bermuda. It also will spread out into the bermuda and thin it out. Would you consider mulch or flower beds in the shade? This is where landscapers can be a big help to you. A good one near you is Milbergers on Loop 1604 east of 281 at Bulverde Rd just inside the loop. They're not big on organics there but they have plants and sod - and they're close to you.

I had the same problem but for some reason there are no more white fly's maybe the lady bugs came and went I have no idea what happened but they are not gone.

you have a couple of options. if you want to spray them, buy the generic glyphosphate, i can buy 2.5 gallons of concetrate for less than 90.00 shipped, where as a gallon of RU concentrate that makes HALF as much is 150 minimum. you WILL have to spray at least once a month. Ortho makes a product called Ground Clear that works great, but each gallon only covers 300 sq ft. It will keep anything from growing for at least a year, IF applied correctly. the BEST solution is the one that cell site owners use. scrape the drive back to bare dirt, install landscape fabric-the thicker the better, and then cover with gravel. not only will weeds not grow, but you also will not have to haul in gravel every few years to replace that mashed into the ground! the last option is more expensive than the first 2 up front, but over time pays for itself and is the cheapest way to go.