Anne Marie..I don't have a 'Moon Garden' but I grow plants that would do well in one. Don't know if types of plants is what you're seeking. Two of my favorites are: Moon Flower and Datura. MF is an Ipomoea. Datura is somewhat related to Brugmansia, although their hardiness zones differ. Brugs grow upright; Datura is a semi-vine. Moon Flower and Datura 'flowers' open as the sun sets. Even on the darkest nights, flowers seem to 'glow,' they're quite iridescent. Sorry I couldn't be more help...Good luck, Toni PS: Phlox is another plant that would do well in a Moon Garden...for color and fragrance.

Contact GW. Forums are not the venue you are looking for.

snakeoil, I have been reaading some about L.H. Bailey. I am confused about what he is trying to say. I have 4 of his books given to me by my 83 yo father-in-law. The date of one of the books is 1917, the pages are in good shape but yellowed/brown some. this is the nineteenth edition, which I find amazing for that time period. The only problem I have is the innocence of chemical applications, tillage and its long term usage unknown. He does seem to have a great influence on the early farmers of this country, which I feel sad that it was not more organic minded instead of the ease of using so many chemicals. His information is very detailed and lenghty in every phase of farming. I can see show he was such a strong influence for chemical usage and would show favor with chemical companies who saw a market with his philosophies. However, he does talk about the use of organic methods, but not separate from using chemicals. Like I said his methods were innocent at the time of understanding his methods which I believe were just plain ignorant. For example: in a section on weeds "For perennials which reproduce both from seed and from surface runners or perennialunderground roots or stems, seed production must be prevented and the underground part must be killed.Seed production may be prevented by mowing when the first flower bud appear. The best methods for killing the roots or rootstocks vary considerably according to the soil, climate, character of the differetn weeds, and the size of the patch or the quanitity to be killed. In general, however, the following principles apply:- 1. The roots, rootstocks,bulbs, and the like may be dug up and removed, a remedy that can be practically applied in small areas. 2. Salt, coal oil, or strong acid applied so as to come in contact with the freshly cut roots or rootstocks destroys them for some distance from the point of contact. Crude sulfuric acid is probably the most effective of comparatively inexpensive materials that can be used for this purpose, but its strong corrosive properties render itdangerous to handle. Carbolic acid is less corrosive, and nearly as effective. Arsenite of soda and arsenate of soda, dangerous poisons, are effective, particularly the former. applied as a spray on the growing weeds. Fuel-distillate, a petroleum product, is very promising. 3. Roots may be starved to death by preventing any development of green leaves or other parts above ground. This may be effected by building straw stacks ocer small patches, by persistent, through cultivation in fields, by the use of the hoe or spud in waste places, and by salting the plants and turning on sheep in permanet pastures. 4. The plants may usaully be smothered by dense sod-forming grasses or by a crop like HEMP, buckwheat, clover, cowpeas, or millet that will exclude light. 5. Most roots are readily destroyed by exposing them in the direct action of the sun during the summer drought, or to the direct action of the frost in winter. In this way plowing, for example, becomes effective. 6. Proper crop rotation is one of the best means of eradication. The usefulness of chemicals as weed-killers is largely limited to the following cases (Jones):- 1. When an especially obnoxious weed, as poison ivy, occurs on a limited locality and is to be destroyed regarless of consequences to soil or neighboring plants. 2. When the aim is to render the soil permanently sterile, as in roadways, tennis courts, and the like. 3. When the weed plant, as orange hawkweed and mustard, in more sensitive than the associated useful plants to the actions of some herbicide. then there is a list of chemicals to use: Salt (sodium chloride) Blue nitriol ( copper sulfate) Copper sulfate solution Iron sulfide (copperas) Kerosene- weak in efficiency, more costly carbolic acid- cheap, quickest and most valuable herbicide. it is not equal to the arsenical poisons for penetrating the soil, or lasting effects. sulfuric acid (oil of vitriol) This is destructive to everything it touches caustic soda- will create a sterile soil that will take time to leach away. Arseical compounds- most effective known. These form the basis of all , or nearly all, of the variuos propriety "herbicides" or "weed-killers"...An important charateristic of those arseniacal poisons is that they ENDURE FOR A LONG TIME AND DO NOT READILY WASH OR LEACH AWAY. " The section on insecticides and others are very toxic as well. I can see how L.H. Bailey was probably the most respected and appreciated writer by the chemical corporations. And how he has caused the greatest nightmare for folks trying to sustain organic methods and for the health of many growers and farmers.

pkock: First of all, I wouldn't give up on the idea of becoming a superb garden writer - simply because they are badly needed for many, but not all of the reasons given below. 1. In my humble, one of the best garden books ever written is "Green Thoughts: A Writer in the Garden" by Eleanor Perenyi. I believe that it is still in print, but if not, obtain a copy from your local library either on the shelves or through their interlibrary loan system. In reality, I believe that you should have this book on your shelves and so you might wish to explore either of the two excellent sources of new and used books listed below. http://wwww.abe.com or http://www.alibris.com Pay particular attention to her chapter on "Failure" as well as the chapter on "Pruning". I wish that I had read the later chapter while in high school as it would have made my classes in English Literature far more enjoyable and my few undergraduate classes in the same area more interesting. FYI - the chapter on "Pruning" has little to do with the actual "pruning" of trees, shrubs, flowers, etc., but it has a great deal to do with a philosophy of gardening. Read it, learn, and, above all, enjoy!! In short, it is her point of view and her style of writing that makes this book a very treasured gem. 2. The second highly recommended book in John Madson's book: "Where the Sky Began: Land of the Tallgrass Prairie". I suspect that most members of the gardenweb forums who have read the book would consider this book as essential reading in the area of gardening. I believe otherwise. Having been born, bred, and experienced the tallgrass prairie of Illinois for over five decades before moving to northwestern Michigan, I read this book many years ago and came to far better appreciate the construction of the prairie soil/loam and to better understand the weather and climate of the tallgrass prairie. I can't remember the title on "soil", but there is a chapter on "The Great Weathers". Both of these chapters convinced me of the necessity of planting bare rootstock material in the fall when possible. Why, simply because there is often a rapid upswing in temperature and humidity during the month of May and June. Sometimes it is so rapid that the changes put a great stress on newly planted flowers, roses, shrubs, etc. Besides Madson's approach, his experiences of growing up on the Iowa prairie, his style, etc., I believe that this book's regional approach should be repeated throughout the United States. I gave a copy of this book to some good friends in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan. She and her husband operate a wonderful B & B just north of Engadine, MI - the Sandtown Farmhouse B & B - and Caroll is a wonderful gardener, who would like to write. A regional approach - like Madson's book - would be most helpful for northern gardeners. I believe that a similar approach could be made for Ohio gardeners, such as yourself. I'd write more, but we're headed to Traverse City with our grandson shortly to visit our daughter, Nicole, who is undergoing a minor operation. Hopefully, I'll be able to contribute a second installment later this evening or by tomorrow. Hope that this small contribution will give you further encouragement. Take care and best wishes! Bill