tulip Poplar with an obvious problem? please help

rjinga

16 years ago

(hope this is the correct forum)

I have noticed this on almost ALL the leaves...any ideas of what it might be and what to do?

I have stuff by Bayer for Tree and Shrub diseases, should this tree get on a treatment regime?

Comments (6)

flgargoyle
16 years ago
You might get more responses on the 'Trees' forum.
Iris GW
16 years ago
I would not worry about it and don't bother trying to apply any treatment. Tulip trees are first in my area to get discolorations and drop as the heat of summer progresses. I'm surprised you don't have more yellow leaves in that picture.
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Well as usual everyone here could be right. But we don't know without more information what is ailing this tree. Have the roots been damaged by construction? Has someone buried the roots with mulch or dirt? Is the tree loaded with Tulip tree scale? Has it gone through a major drought? Been hit by lightening? One thing for sure is do not fertilize it. That said the tree really does look like it is on the way out unless there is a major factor like the ones mentioned that we do not know about. Even then, at this stage of decline correcting something that is wrong probably will not bring it back but you can never tell for sure with trees, sometimes they surprise us. If it really is not a danger then have someone qualified look at it and let us know what they think. If they suggest fertilizing then they are not qualified.
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Actually Tulip trees have perfect flowers, meaning they can self pollinate having both male and female parts in the same flower. For Tulip Trees, heavy seed crops tend to compensate for low seed viability (around 5-20 percent). The samaras are wind dispersed to distances 4 and 5 times the height of the parent tree. Seeds require a cold stratification period, and germination rates vary with time and temperature. Under controlled conditions, stratification in moist sand within a temperature range of 32Â° to 50Â° F for periods of 70 to 90 days resulted in satisfactory germination. However, seedling yield increases with increasing time of stratification. Generally as temperature decreases and time increases the germination rate increases; for example, 90 percent germination occurred after 140 days at 36 degrees Fahrenheit. Germination is epigeal and occurs when seeds remain constantly moist for several weeks. Seed Germination and seedling development is enhanced on mineral soil or on well-decomposed humus than on a thick, undecomposed litter layer. Germinating yellow-poplar seedlings need a suitable seedbed and adequate moisture to survive and become established. After germination, several critical years follow. During this period sufficient soil moisture must be available, good drainage and protection against drying and frost heaving are necessary, and there must be no severe competition from nearby sprout growth. In a study in which various mulches were used to induce soil temperature variation, seedlings grew faster in warm soil than in cool soil. Soil temperatures as high as 97Â° F had a beneficial effect on seedling growth.
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I am more inclined to think the severe drought in the western part of the state, combined with growing next to a road, which is a stressor in itself, may have been the final straw. If the tree(s) came down recently enough, take some branch/leaf samples, as well as soil samples (keep them clean - new ziploc bags? - and not mixed with your lawn/garden soil, both to be sure what THEY have, and to protect your garden if there is a problem) to your county extension office, and ask the agent if s/he can identify any reason for the death. While it may appear to you that there is "no reason" for the tree(s) to die, unfortunately, you can't know all the factors involved - there may have been an underlying weakness that the drought exacerbated. Trees do have a finite lifespan, and it may be that this tree, and the others, have reached the end of theirs - which is not an answer, I know.
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Well, here are the 2 spots I've narrowed it down to. The side front yard where it would be on the WSW side of my house. The fence you see in my yard, to the left of it there's 3' more of my property. They couldn't set the fence any closer because of a power line underground. The reason I'm telling you guys this is because I'm curious to know if that would pose a problem with the tree down the line. If I were to plant it on this side of my house it would be about 3'-5' on my side of the property line, in line with the fence or chokeberry bush. Also, it would cross with the day lillies that run across the front of my house. Here's a few pictures. By the way, the small tree you see planted is a Kwazan Cherry I just planted about a month ago. Now, here's the other site I could plant it. It's on my side yard on the NE side of my house. I wouldn't get anything on the cooling end on my house but I'd get a screen from the street in the background. So there you have it for my choices. I also didn't mention that behind my neighbors house there is a small stream. It's about 200' from where the tree will be planted. I'm pretty sure that will only help this tree when it get's bigger. So there you have it. Which spot do you guys think is better? I'm also thinking about doing the planting on Saturday evening. Were supposed to get a few days break with the warm temps.
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alabamatreehugger 8b SW Alabama
16 years ago
Most tulip poplars in the south look kinda rough by September. The drought doesn't help.
ladyslppr
16 years ago
I wouldn't treat this or any other tree or shrub ailment unless the tree seems to be losing vigor or not rowing from one year to the next. It is common for the leaves of many plants to be somewhat chewed up, blighted, yellow, etc. by the end of the summer, but as long as the plant is growing and vigourous each spring, all of the obvious problems aren't really harming the tree. For example, it is normal for almost all of the milkweed species here to lose most of their leaves to caterpillars each summer. Right now most of them look like skeletons. however, each spring they sprout vigorously, spread, flower and set seeds. The caterpillars certainly don't help the plant grow, but they also don't do much, if any, harm. Same is probably true of the things on the leaves of your tree.
natf
16 years ago
This looks REAL familiar to me. Look at those tulip tree leaves, and any leaves of plants, small trees, etc. under or near them. If the leaves feel sticky at all, something called honeydew, you have tulip tree scale. VERY Bad! This will spread to all under or nearby plants and kill them. I lost a beautiful, old plum tree, planted near my neighbor's 60 foot tulip tree, last year. It's very common here in VA. If sticky, take your hose and very thoroughly wash all leaves, including under plantings, anywhere near your tulip tree. and throw away any tulip tree debris that have fallen. Then you must spray everything with insecticidal soap. In the EARLY spring before new leaves, you have to spray the tulip tree with horticultural oil, even if the tulip tree is very tall. Read the label for control of scale. Hope this is not actually your problem! What a huge headache last year for us. By the way, the under plantings survived beautifully just being well washed and srayed with the insecticidal soap.
senger
16 years ago
i dont think you got no problems here. this is just bugs and nature doing what they do best.

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tulip Poplar with an obvious problem? please help

Comments (6)

flgargoyle

Iris GW

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alabamatreehugger 8b SW Alabama

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