All lime is not the same. And you need to really be careful when adding Dolomite lime (and K-Mag) bc it has too high of a Ca to Mg ratio and you will have way too much Mg if you use it as your only source of Ca. Also, in ag lime "additional chemicals vary depending on the mineral source and may include calcium oxide, magnesium oxide and magnesium carbonate" (Wikipedia links in green). Folks, many of the questions asked here are easily answered with much more reliable information if you do your own research on Google as some of these replies are providing incomplete or inaccurate information. You have the internet and all the information it contains at your fingertips. Put it to use for some research and you will have information that you can be much more confident about and you did it essentially on your own. For those who want the real scoop as to what this stuff really is and how it affects your plants: Ag Lime: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Agricultural_lime Hydrated Lime (Calcium Hydroxide): http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Calcium_hydroxide Dolomite lime: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dolomite Gypsum: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gypsum Hope that helps.

Milehigh, I agree w/ Scott. One oil spray at delayed dormant would be the most you'd need and I would only spray it if you've observed something you need to treat. I typically don't see scale, any serious aphid attacks, pear psylla, or other small insects that need oil treatment. Sometimes I've used oil as a sticker for a dormant copper spray on peaches. I also use oil on pears before bud break to take care of pear blister mite, but other than that it's not needed here in the dormant season. I have sprayed it during the growing season to take care of some mites on apples, but that's not needed very often. We have plenty of insects here, just not that many that can be treated by oil. I'm not sure what you plan to treat w/ copper at petal fall. If it's for fireblight, copper is generally used before bloom. Copper is sometimes used on peaches (in small doses) to reduce bacterial spot, but you probably don't see much of that in CO. It sounds like the only problems you've observed are a little fireblight, and Codling moth, and possibly peach leaf curl. I'm not surprised. For codling moth, an insecticide early in the season and later in the season will take care of both generations. Since you've only experienced a little fireblight, I wouldn't do anything for it. I see a little fireblight in my pears all the time and never do anything about it. I've seen it kill a mature pear tree in the neighborhood and once it infected a Red Bartlett of mine so badly that I had to do some major pruning, but for me it's not been bad enough to justify any routine precautionary sprays. You're really in a climate that doesn't have many disease or insect pests because there is no humidity and not all that much rain. It's been many years since I've been to Denver, but I was near Colorado Springs a few years ago. The air was so dry it hurt my sinuses. It was miserable air to breathe. I suspect Denver is the same. I can see why your state voted for cannabis. I'd probably smoke it too if I had to breathe that dry air constantly. It's a beautiful state and some nice folks, but I was glad to get out of that air. Bad to breathe but good for insect and disease control. I'd count yourself lucky from an insect and disease stand point and just focus on keeping yourself warm this winter.

I should be clear. I don't think lime sulfur caused my asthma. But now that I have it, I'm supposed to wear a respirator to spray anything, regardless of the label. I haven't done a lot of spraying, and I surely won't be doing much more. A respirator is a pain, not to mention the reaction from the neighbors... Lime Sulfur is as dangerous as other materials with a DANGER label. Many of us, I include myself here, were under the impression that because it is considered "organic" it is benign. Far from it. Like most fungicides, the real danger is the concentrate and exposure when mixing. It has a real tendency to splatter. It always splatters when you've taken off your gloves and goggles to read the label and mix it. It also stains very badly - - don't get it on anything metal or on your garden lights or paths or walls or your house - - and it is absorbed through the lungs and skin. So you must wear protective equipment. This is not the stuff to be cavalier about. There's something to be said for spending a few bucks to buy a margin of safety. But then I also wear sunscreen... OTOH, it has some virtures. It does stick rather well. Notice also that it is labeled for scale and mites. So combined with oil you hit them with a double whammy. One last thing. I suspect, but don't know for sure, that it is hard to keep in suspension in the sprayer and that it sometimes burns the canes. That's a rough one here because of the possibility of sunburn and/or salt spray damage. Here is a link that might be useful: typical lime sulfur label

I would contact the manufacturer of the Disper-sul and have them trouble shoot this problem.