The watering issue has been covered, now as for what to plant, that's easy. Plant cool stuff! What's cool? Anything you like. Not everything does well in a container, but almost everything does. Containers are a great way to ignore the pitfalls of your soil. Want to grow a super acid soil loving plant, but don't have super acid soil? Grow it in a container. Want to grow a plant that needs dry soil, but get too much rainfall? Grow it in a container with a super fast draining mix. Want to grow a water plant, but don't care to install a pond? No problem, just fill a container with water and plant away. I love gardening in the ground and place a premium on building quality soil, but the fact is my soil/climate simply will never allow me to grow some things I think are cool, but containers will. Containers are a way to push the envelope way beyond what is possible in the ground in one's area. Do you love the look of a tropical plant that would never survive your winters? No problem. Grow it in a container and drag it indoors for winter. If you have some ground you can grow in, do so. Save the containers for those things you can't get away with in your ground/climate. Just something to consider.

Could you post a photo please (and you might want to post it on the Growing Tomatoes forum here). Yellowing of lower leaves can be caused by several things but the most common is over-watering. However I'm concerned when you say it has only been transplanted for 7 days but is blooming and producing fruit. Could you clarify that as it would be very stressful for a 7 day old transplant to be blooming much less have fruit on it. If it already had blooms and fruit on it when you transplanted it then most would have removed them before transplanting it to reduce the transplanting stress. Dave

One of my jicama seeds sprouted today. Yippee! I mainly planted them because they're said to help repel squash bugs; but I did plant either 5 or 6 in the far back corner because of the whole toxic thing. I have some dwarf sunflower seeds that are supposed to only grow about 5' tall. I'm pretty sure I picked them up at Walmart or Home Depot last year. I'm happy to share if you're anywhere near the southeast valley.

Welcome to the forum. With the corn, in normal conditions and circumstances, the tassels emerge first, and then the silks. Then, the pollen falls from the tassels onto the silks and fertilization occurs. It is a one silk/one kernel at a time process that happens multiple times on multiple days until you get a whole ear full or kernels. In an ideal situation with perfect weather conditions, all your silks on all your plants can emerge within about a 3-day period and quickly fertilize. In less than ideal situations, silks may be very erratic or may not appear at all. During periods of extreme drought, extreme heat or a combination of the two, anything can and will happen, especially for late-planted corn that is tasseling and silking (or attempting to) in extremely hot weather. Some people this year have reported tasseling but no silking, silking but no tasseling and even tassels with corn ears/silk seeming to spring right out of the tassel. Plenty have reported stalks with no silks and no tassels. Such genetic oddities seem to be induced by high heat/low moisture. Heat and drought affect corn pollination and fertilization in different ways. Dry heat is usually worse for corn than humid or wet heat. It is too hot now for proper fertilization to occur, so even if silks appear, it is unlikely you'll get ears that are filled with edible kernels. The smaller your corn patch, the harder it is to get good tip fill on the ears, and your corn patch is pretty small. The recommended planting dates for spring corn are March 25th through April 30th (earliest date for SE OK, latest for NW OK and everyone in between can plant somewhere within that range). The recommended planting dates for fall corn are July 1st-15th, with the order being reversed for fall, so the July 1st date is for NW OK and the July 15th date is for SE OK, and everyone else falls into the middle in between the two. These recommended dates are very important because corn pollinates/fertilizes best when temperatures are not too extremely hot, so you want your spring corn to pollinate and fertilize early before the real heat sets in, and for fall you don't want it to pollinate/fertilize until the air temps have cooled down. As for the little unknown plant, I think it could be velvetleaf. I've only had it here one year and it took me a while to figure out what it was, but people in other parts of Oklahoma see it more often there than I see it here. Hopefully some of those who see it more than I do can tell you if they think it is velvetleaf. If it is, you probably don't want to keep it and you surely don't want for it to go to seed and reproduce itself in a great quantity. I let it stay in my garden the first year because I thought it was pretty. I then spent the next spring pulling out all its little seedlings. Lesson learned. Dawn Here is a link that might be useful: Corn Pollination & Drought Stress