Sorry, my photo didn't upload. Here it is.

Pieris - I can't tell you the species.

One reason in favor of plowing, tilling, or "drilling" seed is to bury it out of sight of seed eating birds. In nature the grasses have simply produced so much seed that the birds can't eat it all. When the herbivores come along and trample the seed onto the surface, there's traditionally been enough to go around. But for farmers trying to concentrate production of single crops, a few flocks of birds can cut into their profit. In 2014 I bought a house with a neglected yard. There was about 30 square feet of St Augustine and 7,300 square feet of weeds. It never entered my mind to till in organics or amendments. The weeds provide organic roots in the soil, so there is plenty of organic matter already there. Tilling would only stir up the roots and bury the surface plant tissue. The microbes necessary to decompose these parts of the plant are located where the plant parts normally live. When you rototill you're bringing the depth loving microbes to the surface and burying the surface loving microbes. What good does that do? I think we all understand that soil develops into a structure. What that means is the microbes that belong at depth populate at their depth stratum while the surface dwellers thrive where they are adapted. It also means the microbes cause the sand, silt, and clay particles to bond and align which allows capillary forces to move water around. Both water and air move in and out of the soil through these invisible channels. When you till the soil it destroys the channels and turns them into fluff. When you look down on it the soil takes on moisture in a different way. Rather than moving down deep into the soil, moisture clogs the soil at the surface with muck (technical term). It can take years to rebuild a soil structure, so the common practice of annual plowing or tilling simple prevents the soil from forming a good structure. Microbes never have a chance to populate in the numbers needed to create healthy soil and you're left with a soil depleted of organic matter. This is what they found in the cotton fields I mentioned earlier. The no-till cotton formed a micorhizal (fungal root) system that was much larger than the plants' actual root systems. The fungus attaches to the roots and sends hyphae (root like appendages) out many feet in all directions into the soil. The fungus and roots live symbiotically where the plant provides sugars to the fungus and the fungus provides moisture, NPK, and micronutrients to the roots. When the plant dies, gets pulled out, or plowed in, all that glorious symbiosis ends and has to start over with the next gen of plants.

Don't use Weed and Feed, it does neither well. What city do you live in? Seeding with crab grass preventer is a bad idea. Try this instead. Do put down a separate pre-emergent herbicide now to stop crab grass and water it in after application, like Scott's HALTS without fertilizer. Read the label twice. A few days later...mow then a few days later. Do use Ortho Weed Be Gone Chickweed Clover Oxalis now - 2 days after mowing , wait 1-2 weeks, repeat mow , 2 day wait, apply again. Don't water the Ortho or apply before expected rainfall within 6 hours (12better) Repeat above steps in mid-late August. UNLESS you seed, then come back here for advice in July. Do apply straight fertilizer Memorial / Labor Day / October 1 / right before growth stops mid-November(if living in the North) Repeat every year.