yellowbell - I think you are getting 2 separate sets of answers, one to help bermuda and one to kill it. Do you have a bermuda lawn and need to control other weeds, or do you have another type of grass (St. Augustine, Zoysia, etc.) and bermuda is a weed that you are trying to control? Either way there is no magic organic "weed n feed". You can feed with organic fertilizers, use CGM as a pre-emergent, and control existing weeds by hand-pulling or spraying with 20% vinegar. Hop over to the Lawn Care Forum and the Organic Gardening Forum. The lawn care forum has a FAQ on bermuda grass care that is written for organic and synthetic users, the organic gardening has an organic lawn care FAQ.

Are you planning to spray the whole yard with atrazine, or just spot spray? I would spot spray each & every suspected Crabgrass head, but I would not broadcast a spray across the entire yard--That's a bit wasteful & atrazine is tough stuff. It's really not too late on the preM this year, all this rain & cool weather has kept them behind schedule in my yard. The atrazine should be used in combination with a good preM to keep the heads from coming back anyway. I use dimension & it actually kills baby Crabgrass up to a single tiller, so it can be applied later than the others on the market. Late app plus late growth means you're not too late for preM & it will make a world of difference. I also recommend a product called bonide Sedge ender, which targets Crabgrass & nutsedge specifically, including a preM already mixed in. Ace has both these products, but the big box stores usually only carry fast acting stuff to keep you coming back.

SETX, Is pretty late, but I'd probably still apply dithiopry (Dimension) with the long summer we've been having. It gives a bit more extended effect than pendimethalin (Halts). Here's a recent GW thread with more details: New Home Weeds. "Weed n feed" products can work fine. But recommend separating the fertilizer and pre-emergent treatments for a couple reasons. First, it enables you to apply pre-emergents only where and when they are needed. As others have already said, once lawn is restored to health, 2X per year applications may not be necessary to all (any?) of your lawn space. Second, as recommended in the Neil Sperry article referenced in the earlier thread, heavy watering after fertilizer and light watering after per-emergent is not feasible when they're applied at the same time. We've rehabbed several yards successfully with the help of pre-emergents, wishing you similar results.

Well, hell the pot plants are grown next door! (These are actual pot plants!) Also the move was by choice. Moving from 1 1/4 acre into town. Can walk to everything! No more 2 hours of mowing just to have it grow back! I will miss my garden, but I'm looking into some community gardens nearby and some grow boxes. Also looking into vermicomposting. OTOH, I am inheriting a mature cherry and peach tree! Something different! Thatch shouldn't be a problem right away because the lawn is only a couple of years old as far as we know. I'll be asking questions on the lawn board since I have never really had a lawn! I probably won't continue with the gardener since we have such a small yard. I would say it'll take a half hour a week to mow? A few minutes of weeding per week and some raking of the messy tulip tree! Thanks for all of the responses! Nancy