pay $ for it, fertilize it, water it and just wait, it will die. At least that is what happens here. Have you tried isolating the good plants, so that you can treat the grass? it is labor intensive but may be one of your only choices.

That moss is more than likely growing there because of a soil problem, most likely low organic matter levels in the soil, as well as low sunlight that all grasses need to grow. Start working on eliminating the moss be getting a good, reliable soil test done. Ialk with the people at your counties Ohio State University Cooperative Extension Service about having that done and also dig in with these simple soil tests. 1) Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. The results of these tests can guide you in making corrections to the soil so other types of plants have a better chance of growing there. Here is a link that might be useful: OSU CES

Thanks for Weed Dragon advice ! It certainly is a lot of fun to burn the weeds up and it certainly works much faster than Roundup :) I will carefully consider if I want to go this route for 2 reasons: 1. Fire safety, it is very dry here in CO in summer so this might be dengerous to use. 2. Just like Roundup this method is post-emergent control and due to the size of the area to be controlled still going to present with same issue of being time consuming. I've been looking around some other pre-emergent control options and found a product called Preen (available from Amazon, Home Depot, Walmart, etc) -- this product is safe to use around trees and provides up to 3 months protection. So I think I will probably end-up with some combination of pre-emergent control (Preen, CGM) + Roundup/Weed Dragon for post emergent control -- even if I can get 50% weed reduction with Preen this will make post-emergent control so much easier. Thanks everybody for your help !! Please let me know if you have any other suggestion. Davie.

The bleach is your best bet. When moss grows on brick it is very resistant to letting go. Apply pure household bleach (6% sodium hypochlorite) and let it turn br.own then white. It might take a few applications if its thick. If you aren't going to use a pressure washer use a stiff bristle brush to remove. Letting the solution dry (once it has turned completely white) might make brushing easier on you.