For areas of any size, you need to either put sod in the areas you've cleared of weeds or overseed. Cool season grasses don't fill in large areas like bermuda and St Augustine... and weeds and weedy grasses will.

Okay guys. I know the Bermuda looks terrible but I've just started the regimen. Thank you so much for all the help. I just recently received my soil test and started to really get into and face the cold hard facts that my grass is in bad shape so, I'm on the wagon now, the lawn wagon. I understand that dallisgrass is hard to kill. I just started doing the 36-0-0 fertilizer with Milorganite. I'm thinking of getting the alfalfa pellets next week for it. Dchall I guess I'm putting the cart before the horse thinking overrun. I'm just glad I've found this site for the help you're all giving me. I've been getting a better understanding of how this Bermuda works from reading these threads. I don't have a reel mower but bought a new blade. I hope to one day be able to show you before and after pics of my yard. Let me know if you recommend anything else outside of what I just named to apply to my lawn. I'm open for suggestions. This soil test says to do these applications monthly. I wonder if I could do it every 2 weeks until it looks better. What say you? 36-0-0 every 2-3 weeks?

KBG is an abbreviation for Kentucky Bluegrass. If you're overseeding an existing lawn, what you do is cut it as short as you can first. If you want to keep as much of the existing grass as possible, gradually lower the deck. If you want the existing grass to get stressed and maybe be replaced by the new grass, chop it all at once. It's not going to kill it all, but it will stress it worse and will kill some of it. Then put your seed down and make sure it stays damp for at least 3-4 weeks, watering several times a day if there's not enough rain. You don't need to water a lot, just enough to get the top wet (maybe 1/2 of the soil at most). All you want is enough to keep the seeds damp. They don't have roots, so watering deeply doesn't help at this point. You then want to wait as long as possible before mowing. Raise the mower deck to its highest setting and wait until the existing grass is 1.5 times as tall as it will be after cutting (for example, if the deck goes to 4 inches, wait until the grass is 6 inches tall before cutting. If you've got a fair amount of KBG in the existing lawn, you may not need to overseed. The KBG will spread through specialized roots called rhizomes. Whether the bare spots will fill in depends on how big the bare spots are and how much healthy grass you have. To keep weeds at bay, cultural practices can help a lot. Mow the grass fairly high (I mow mine at about 4 inches) and water deeply and infrequently.

Pull it when you see it. And keep pulling. The time to use glyphosate would have been several months ago, when the plant you didn't want was growing and healthy. It's easiest to kill then. What you probably did was put it into hibernation and now it's reviving. To use an herbicide without killing the dymondia, get a bunch of big paper cups paper bags, or whatever is the right size for shields. Put the cups over the dymondia, spray the weeds, and an hour or so later, remove the cups. Save them for the next time.