Ginro Asagao (Japanese Morning Glory)
Gerris2 (Joseph Delaware Zone 7a)
14 years ago
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carol23_gw
14 years agoremy_gw
14 years agoRelated Discussions
Transplanting Morning Glories - Forget the Myth (!) it's Easy
Comments (9)katiesommer - Please consider the following regarding your GW membership : Consider enabling the GardenWeb members to send you a private message email...via the GardenWeb...you can do this by: 1) logging in and scrolling to the bottom of the page where is says "Member services" http://members.gardenweb.com/members/ 2) Edit Your Membership Details Going into your profile and scroll to near the bottom of the page and place a check in the box that states: a) Show my email address to: (in drop down menu) > Member b) check the box in front of "Allow other users to send you email via forms at our site." *You might also consider adding in your USDA zone in section 4 from the top of the page where it says "Garden Zone" and you can add in your climate zone Then , after you are done updating your display features look near the bottom of the page and click onto the gold tab that says "Save your Member profile" Your question is of a generalized and therefore somewhat 'off-topic' (which I would have preferred to answer in a separate thread or via private message) but being a relatively new member I will extend the courtesy of posting an the answer here. Morning Glories are twining climbing vines which require some other structure (twine, stakes, branches, etc., to twine their entire stems around in order to climb. Morning Glories do NOT produce the type of specialized tendrils of clinging vines (e.g., Cucurbitaceae) with or without adhering discs or aerial roots which enable other types of vines (Parthenocissus spp , Hedera spp ) to self-attach to a solid wall or structure of any material. Morning Glories do NOT produce the type of bio-chemicals excreted by the adhering discs or aerial roots of clinging vines cited in the paragraph above which will eventually damage the mortar between bricks and cause disintegration of wood. The fact that any MG or other plant comes from a commercial source is no guarantee that it is as labeled and in fact it is often the case that commercial sources do not know how to properly identify species including MG's. You want to be sure of what you got in any packet (?)...then post the seedlings and young plants on one of the forums where people with an established (long term) reputation for accurate identification can ID what you have growing... Enjoy your Morning Glories (!) P.S. - Please click onto my member name and send me a private message if you have MG related questions that may be off-topic and you are unsure of where or how to post them in the appropriate thread....See MoreHow to hand pollinate Morning Glories?
Comments (8)Hi Fran, Learning how to do simple hand pollination is a good idea in order to increase seed production and to enjoy doing your own crosses or to insure that a particular cultivar is self-pollinated to prevent unwanted crosses. The easiest way to insure that a Morning Glory is pollinated is to push the anthers (after the pollen has been released) with the fluffy looking pollen up against the stigma so that pollen adheres to the usually slightly sticky surface of the stigma...if the anthers are at the same height as the stigma or slightly higher than the stigma , the pollination is easily achieved...(but if the anthers are much below the stigma or much higher than the stigma then simply using some object to simply push the anthers onto the stigma will not work and you will have to try another method...) You can use a small artists brush to tranfer the pollen from the anther to the stigma within a flower,or between different flowers... The brush should be able to perform 2 functions well a) pick up the pollen b) release the pollen I have found that the cheap brushes which are made out of synthetic material do not pick up or release pollen very well...cotton swabs are excellent at picking up pollen,but are very reluctant to release it and you are likely to to damage to the surface of the stigma by abrading (or bruising ) it with a cotton swab in the process of trying to get the pollen to be released... The brushes that work the best are made out of natural hair and pick up the pollen and release it very well...a very good brush is usually about $5 to $10 but worth it...you can find high quality brushes that are excellent for pollen work at an artists or high quality craft supply store...a quick wipe will clean the brush of pollen... The other method that I use to hand pollinate is grasp the stamen about midway (or lower) with a pair of tweezers and with a quick sharp tug > yank it free...then re-position the stamen so that the anther is facing the stigma and use it like a paint brush to lightly paint the surface of the stigma(s...a very light brushing is usually sufficient and you should be able to see the pollen coming off of the anther and adhering to the surface of the stigma...one very full anther can pollinate several flowers...you don't need to completely cover the stigma with pollen...10 to 15 good pollen grains is usually very sufficient...more than that is usually a waste of good pollen... The pollen will sprout and produce a pollen tube which will penetrate the specialized pollen tube transmitting tissue and make it's way to the ovary and on to the the ovules and if all goes well,the fertilized ovule will ripen into a seed... Morning Glories can only accommodate up to about 25 pollen tubes in total,so if the 25th pollen tube for whatever reason does not fertilize the ovules,no further pollen tubes will be enabled and any additional pollen placed onto the stigma is realistically wasted... The pollen transfer is best done as soon as the anthers have released the pollen (i.e., dehisced )and this may be very early in the morning,although some flowers may not release the pollen until mid-morning or sometimes later in the day... Hand pollination is best done when it is not too hot and not too cold...not too dry and not too wet...pollen which has been rained on is worthless... Pollen can be stored in a cool,dry place,on a non-absorptive surface(like glass,plastic or waxed paper) after being dried in the sun for about an hour or so...pollen so prepared will remain viable for a couple of months...pollen can also be frozen,but will loose a certain amount of vigor... Flowers which have been hand pollinated can be protected by any further unwanted pollination by covering them in something to prevent other pollinators from accessing the inner flower e.g., like a small piece of muslin with a tie string to tighten below the flower base... Hand pollination is actually very easy and can be mastered with just a little practice... Check out the photo link posted and click onto the contents at the top of the photo page to view more from Dr.Yoneda's wonderful online asagao book... There it is...(!) Hope the suggestions are helpful... Talk to you... Ron Here is a link that might be useful: Pistil and Stamen Closeup in Morning Glory Beginners Guide...See MoreMutant Asagao Colored Line Drawings
Comments (9)Joseph, did Dr. Nitasaka say whether they are trying to bring any of the lost mutants back? Wouldn't that be exciting? I'm right with you in wondering how they bred these beauties in the first place. And then, there's the possibility of mutants never seen before...mwa-hahahaha Thank you for the collage - those are excellent photocopies. I found some scans of lower quality than yours of mutant asagaos (mutant morning glories), but folks can download a separate plate for each mutant - makes a nice slide show or wall paper to study. Asagao sanjuu rokka sen 36 Selected Asagao is in German, and following are two links to two different scans of this book. The wiki scan's images are open domain, which means copyrights have expired so the images can be freely used. The other scan, though, is better quality. -- http://caliban.mpiz-koeln.mpg.de/asagao/ (German, better scans) -- http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Asago_sanjuu_rokka_sen ------------------- Another set of mutant asagao images is on Dr. Yoneda's website: -- Click on http://protist.i.hosei.ac.jp/Asagao/Yoneda_DB/E/menu.html -- Then scroll down to Image Archives, and click on Old Pictures I can't recommend too highly Dr. Yoneda's online book that is such a great tutorial for beginners and anyone interested in how to grow morning glories. There's a lot more about morning glories on this website, too, for folks of all levels. Joseph, I hope you don't mind my collecting relevant material so that we can have it all together on your thread. Your visit to Kyushu U and with Dr. Nitasaka was an awesome dream come true, and I know we all greatly appreciate being able to vicariously enjoy it through you. karen...See MoreMorning Glory Growing in Winter 2013-14
Comments (78)David -There are both annual and perennial Morning Glory species. Ipomoea purpurea is a genetic annual. Ipomoea pandurata is a genetic perennial. The annuals are genetically programmed to die after flowering and although they can sometimes be induced to grow for more than 1 season, they will never develop perennial type roots and at best will live for about 2 years, no matter what part of the planet they are grown in , including equatorial regions. The perennial Morning Glory species may grow for many years in climates that do not destroy the roots or if over-wintered indoors or in a greenhouse... regards, Ron...See Moredena_eft
14 years agosuseart
14 years agodena_eft
7 years agoGerris2 (Joseph Delaware Zone 7a)
7 years ago
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Gerris2 (Joseph Delaware Zone 7a)Original Author