Speck can be cured and the plants can grow out of it. When I had it I removed all the spotted leaves and sprayed something organic and they rebounded. The worst problems are the viruses. If you get a serious virus you should just give up and start over.

Okiebaker, Aw, c'mon now, tomato fever panic never cured anything, so relax and repeat after me "Growing tomatoes is fun and relaxing". Good. Now say it again. Take a deep breath. Feel better yet? Daconil is an anti-fungal agent. It coats the leaves and prevents fungal spores from attaching. It is not effective on bacterial infections. Copper spray is a fungicide/bactericide and is what you use for bacterial diseases on your tomato plants, whether you have bacterial speck or bacterial spot. The label of the product you purchase will give you the proper dilution rates and spray intervals. You can purchase copper products at nurseries, garden centers, big box stores or online. Be careful not to overuse copper because heavy overuse can cause copper to build up to toxic levels in your soil. Also, copper is toxic to earthworms and to aquatic life, so try not to develop an overdependence on it. Whether or not to remove the infected branch is a matter of choice. I tend to do it, but some folks don't. Be careful when removing it and do not touch anything else with your hands or your pruners until you've washed both or you could spreadthe bacteria to everything you or the pruning shears touch. Also, it is a judgement call in terms of removing a disease branch and how many to remove. If you remove too many, the plant will suffer a serious setback and developing fruit may lost its sun protection and develop sunscald. Most plants bounce back from bacterial speck and bacterial spot with minimal treatment. In future years, you should rotate your tomato plantings to another part of the garden or yard. If you repeatedly plant them in the same place, they'll have bacterial problems every year because it will build up in the soil. A 3-year or 4-year rotation is best, but even a 2-year rotation is better than nothing. Good luck, Dawn

some have what to appers to be halos,you can see dark spots on the under side of the leaves also, it almost looks like pollen on the surfaces,but will not wash off). I looked at the tomato problem solver and I beleive that I have contracted bacterial spot or speck. I have about 50 plant in a 5x5 area and only I have to go with your diagnosis based on your looking at the Problem Solver pictures. Dark spots on top of the leaf surface with yellow halos I understand. Dark spots on the bottom of the leaf I don't b'c foliage diseases aren't usually defined that way. And I don't understand your reference to yellow pollen like material on the leaf surface. Could you please say more about that? Do you mean the area that we'd call the halo? it doesn't matter if it's Bacterial Speck or Spot b'c both would be treated the same way. And about the only thing a home grower has to use are copper containing preps such as Kocide, or similar. If it were me I'd spread out those 48 plants so that they have more room between them so that air circulation would be improved. Hopefully you can stop any new airborne infections from taking hold, but I must say that seldom have I seen a bunch of plants in ONE area where only TWO of them get infected and the others don't b/c all of them would be exposed to the same air that had the bacteria. All new foliage infections are acquired via airborne means, as opposed to splashback infection from contaminated soil from infections in a rpevious year. So I admit that I'm a bit puzzled here. Carolyn

I'd say you're thinking in the right ways on these, Mark. Those purple spots on Coyote look bad to me, and when you added in the curled top growth I said immediately, "I'd yank it." Bacterial speck tends to be more toward the bottom and black, not purplish... and it can't cause that distortion. Only two things cause new growth like that in tomatoes: herbicide or virus. I'd pull it. The second one is borderline; the real question is where the symptoms are showing up. Virus spots tend to show on newer growth, while bacterial and fungal things often show up more on the lower, older leaves. If you're getting leaves halfway up the plant or higher with that netting effect, while the leaves below are better or unaffected, I'd be betting on TSWV. If you feel daring, leave it in until it starts to stunt, and then you can be sure. The last pic looks like Early Blight -- the broad halo is indeed a classic fungal symptom, and the edge-placement and brown dead area suggest Alternaria. Give the Daconil a try and pick off the affected leaves; mulching and clearing out the lower foliage may help as well. It's always hard to pull plants, but you're doing well at keeping on top of things, looks like. Good luck. --Alison