You can probably leave it alone. The established bluegrass should spread to fill the damaged areas. If you seed along with the Halts, the grass seed could be prevented along with the crabgrass seed.

Somehow I must have gotten busy last year after gatorengineer posted his final messages. Would like to know how it looks after a year and what he's done about the use of -icides. It was interesting rereading how his adamant opinion about the importance of fungicides subsided only slightly to skepticism about organics and then moved to complete acceptance and enthusiasm about it. I'm curious to know what he now thinks of Linda Chalker-Scott and her academic criticism versus his achievements with his lawn. I have done a lot more reading and helped a lot more people over the year, too. I am willing to admit that there are a few issues which are not well addressed by an organic approach, but the general use of organics will alleviate so much of that pressure. As gatorengineer said, it is cheaper and easier. So gatorengineer totally, and successfully hijacked this thread once, now comes Chrissomebody to do it again. I'll go if you want. The topic remains a discussion about using fungicide which turned into another successful organic approach. In all that discussion we never got around to dicusssing how the corn meal works. It works by attracting a predatory fungus called trichoderma (try kuh DER muh). The normally small soil population of trichoderma builds up on the fungus which decomposes the corn meal. Once that original fungus is gone, the trichoderma takes on other fungal species it can find. Since the fungal disease is right there at the surface, it becomes the target. The process takes about 3 weeks to see results. Having said that, since you have already applied a fungicide, you have likely killed off the normally low population of trichoderma. I would watch the grass very carefully for any sign that the fungicide is not working. It should work instantly to stop the spread of the disease. You might need to put out markers in the lawn to show the very edge of the problem area. Watch them daily to see of the grass is improving or getting better or worse. You might take pictures for reference. You'll see spots on the grass bladed indicating the presence of the fungus. Normal St Augustine has no spots at all, anywhere. Here is a picture of healthy St Aug. If you find that the disease has not stopped, then immediately apply excellent, finished compost at a rate of no more than 1 cubic yard per 1,000 square feet to restore a healthy colony of all the beneficial microbes you need. If you get your compost in bags, allow it a few days to air out. Just dump it on bare soil somewhere and let it sit. Compost in bags gets smelly mold in it. Resting will allow that smelly mold to be consumed by the beneficial fungi in the compost. Water the compost down and let it sit on the lawn for a few days. The microbes from the compost will wash into the soil. Then apply the corn meal at 20 pounds per 1,000 square feet. Water only enough to wash the corn meal off the blades and down onto the soil.

To prevent dings, I drive a Saturn, sorry to read they'll go to steel, I was planning on another Saturn when I drive this one into the ground in a few more years. I work retail, our parking lot is the test loop for the Indy 500. Everyone cuts through to get to the freeway quicker, heaven forbid they'd have to stop at that nasty stoplight. Semi's almost come through our front window on a daily basis, scares the heck out of my elderly customers to see a semi 2 ft. from the window behind them, and inching closer (sorry about that corner, truckers, I know how inconvenient it is for you). Nice coworker got a new Taurus last fall, noticed she had a good-sized dent on driver's side, rather high up on door, I thought, 6-8 inches under the window. She said it happened at work. Couple weeks later, I see a the exact same dent on passenger side, asked her about it, you should have seen her face, she's normally a peaceful woman, but...Poor thing, she probably didn't realize I have plastic doors when she started parking by me last year. The other day I came back from the bank, parked in my usual section, next to a....huge pickup, so tall the shrimpy guy who drives it prolly needs a stepstool to climb in. The car on the other side of him? My frind Dolores' car of course.Hmm, I can see how people get tempted to key cars (I would/could never do that myself). Couple monthes ago, a customer watched a junk car smack into a new car, the genius driver just parked there anyway, and went off to shop. Don't you know the witness waited for the smacked car's owner, and police were called. The offender looked shocked that she was caught. Boy I could go on and on, suffice to say it's true common courtesy is disappearing fast.

Again, if I misread something, just correct me. Now my left eye's a little bleary too, but, well, the dahlia won't plant themselves and there were twelve flats to be hauled out to harden off... Corn can go any time the soil's not cold, so no limitations on that! If you're looking to apply pre-em, it's warm enough, so whenever convenient is great. Alfalfa isn't recommended for monthly usage on northern lawns (the growth hormones, paradoxically, make the roots stop growing when overapplied). Ten pounds per month, sure. More than that, no. Plus alfalfa isn't a very good feeding at roughly 2-1-2 equivalent as a fertilizer. I usually recommend soybean meal instead (7-1-2). Apply that at 15 pounds per thousand square feet in May, August, September, and October and that alone provides sufficient protein (and consequently nitrogen) to keep the lawn healthy. Milorganite at 20 pounds per thousand is a good substitute if you can't get soybean. Other months, you can always put down corn if you like. Alfalfa can go in April and September (doubling up with the soy isn't a problem). Proper mowing and watering are, as you found out, critical. :-) It sounds like you're on the right track there. Bentgrass: Reduce the stress on yourself and spray it with Round Up. Spray again 2 weeks later even if it seems to be dead. Then let your lawn spread back in, or reseed in late summer if it's primarily fescue. If you'd rather not use Round Up, Tenacity will also take out bentgrass. Two sprays will probably be required, and the Tenacity also provides about a month of pre-emergent protection from bentgrass sprout as well, which will give your lawn time to spread. In the area around the kill, double the organic feeding. That'll accelerate lawn spreading there.