kimmsr, Disagree with you, simply based on experience. I used to have lots of grubs in my very moist compost before using BT. Rarely see a grub of any kind anymore, using the same methods/materials with the addition of BT. http://www.nysaes.cornell.edu/ent/biocontrol/pathogens/bacteria.html States: Primary hosts: caterpillars; some BEETLE and fly larvae. Also states: "Over 90 species of naturally occurring, insect-specific (entomopathogenic) bacteria have been isolated from insects, plants, and the soil, but only a few have been studied intensively". So I give credit to BT. I put some good soil in my new compost piles, which has had applications of all commercial BT strains, so I can't say which one (if any) are at work against grubs. Doesn't matter to me. So I give credit to BT, et al. - and don't have names for the other 86 or so insect-specific (entomopathogenic) bacteria spoken of, OR other such non-specific bacteria that may not have been identified yet. http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/2000/2500.html : 'Grubs' is a 'generic' term, used for larvae of a large group of beetles called SCARABS. The most important species are: Japanese beetle, Popillia japonica Newman; May or June beetles, Phyllophaga spp.; northern and southern masked chafers, Cyclocephala spp.; and black turfgrass ataenius, Ataenius spretulus (Haldeman). Other, more localized, white grub pests are: European chafer, Rhizotrogus majalis (Razoumowsky); the Asiatic garden beetle, Maladera castanea (Arrow); and the green June beetle, Cotinis nitida (Linnaeus). Option 4: Biological Control - Milky Diseases - Several strains of the bacterium, Bacillus popilliae (bacterium is extracted from Japanese beetle grubs and is most active against this species), have been found that attack white grubs...Unfortunately, recent studies in Kentucky and Ohio indicate that the currently available products have NOT PERFORMED WELL IN OUR SOILS. (caps are mine). Goes on to say that parasitic nematodes are a up to 80% effective, but "...do not appear to be effective from one season to the next". So you can take exception with me if you want to - your opinion is just as valid as mine - but now let's hear from YOU about your EXPERIENCE with grubs... Robert

I also read it in the Texas Agricu. article, they say about the same thing, I thought I was passing on good information, I tried it when I saw 2 fungua gnats in my greenhouse. I will also post their article(who knew it was so eazy to grow potatoes) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- UC-028 FUNGUS GNAT MANAGEMENT Bastiaan M. Drees Professor and Extension Entomologist The Texas Agricultural Extension Service Texas A&M University System -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The term, fungus gnat, applies to a number of species in the insect order Diptera, family Sciaridae (dark winged fungus gnat species Bradysia coprophila, impatiens and paupera). Fungus gnat adults are a nuisance to greenhouse operators, interiorscapers as well as consumers. The larval stages can damage healthy roots, stunting or killing young plants even where there is no fungal food source (Lindquist 1994). Prolonged infestations may cause stunted, off-colored plants or foliage (Cole 1985). Damage may actually be more severe to young plants when the potting media or soil has been sterilized. Fungus gnat larvae may also aid in the introduction and spread of plant diseases such as Pythium, Verticillium, Cylindrocladium, Scelerotinia and Theila-viopsis. Description. Adult fungus gnats are small (1/8 inch long), fragile grayish to black flies with long, slender legs and thread-like antennae. Their wings are clear or smokey-colored with no pattern and few distinct veins. Larvae are clear to creamy-white and can grow to about 1/4 inch long. They have shiny black head capsules (Fig. 1). Biology. Fungus gnats develop through complete metamorphosis: egg; larva; pupa; and adult. Development occurs in 2 to 4 weeks. Larvae feed primarily on fungi, decaying organic matter and plant roots, particularly in very moist enviro nments. Larval and pupal stages can also, however, survive periods of drought. Fungus gnats normally follow a predictable cycle of population development: The first two generations are the largest, followed by a leveling off or decline in numbers. Continuous production (ie. adding new plants in fresh growing media) may keep fungus gnat numbers high, because the insects will keep moving to the potting mix containing the fresh media (Lindquist 1994). Monitoring methods. Yellow sticky cards and potato pieces placed on potting media are good methods for monitoring adult and larval populations, respectively. Yellow stick cards are most effective when place horizontally on the potting media surface, although vertically positioned cards hung over the crop canopy are also effective and trap more of other types of insect pests as well. Cards placed under the benches, close to intake vents, near doorways and outside the greenhouse can provide additional information to detect breeding areas. Continuous monitoring (weekly) can provide the following information: 1) first detection of low populations; 2) population density increases or decreases over time; 3) the level and length of suppression resulting from the implementation of suppression tactics. Potato slices (roughly 1 by 1 by 1/4 to 1/2 inch pieces) placed on the surface of potting media are attractive to larval stages of fungus gnats. The potato slices should be left in place for about 4 hours before counting the number of larvae on and under the slices (Lindquist 1994). Results of this monitoring effort can be used to: 1) detect areas where larvae are developing; and 2) document the reduction of larval population densities after the implementation of suppression tactics by comparing results from before ant after treatment. Management. There are no "economic threshold levels" established for managing this pest (Lindquist 1994). Thus, the decision to suppress populations is largely subjective, although regulatory or marketing forces may play an important role in the decision-making process.Fungus gnat control can be an important part of managing some plant diseases. Integrated pest management of fungus gnats is best when a combination of non-chemical (cultural) methods are used with biological and/or chemical methods. Table 1 provides an inventory of considerations and options which can be incorporated into a fungus gnat management program. Cultural methods are largely preventive and must be maintained throughout the production cycle. Biological methods must be implemented early, when fungus gnat population levels are still low. Insect growth regulator products applied to the potting media are more compatible with biological control. However, once a severe problem has developed, an insecticide program using a combination of treatments for adult as well as larvae fungus gnat control may be necessary. Literature cited Cole, C. L. 1985. Fungus Gnats, L-2041. Texas Agricultural Extension Service, Texas A&M University System, College Station, Texas. Drees, B. M. 1992. Pest Management Alternatives for Commercial Orna-mental Plants. Texas Association of Nurserymen. Austin, Texas. 140 pp. Lindquist, R. K. 1994. Integrated man- agement of

calliope: maybe? How can I identify potworm? I look around and 1 website says its length is ~1/4 inch, and the other says it can reach up to 1 inch. One thing that totally confuse me (and make me think if this is a larvae of flying bugs) is none of the pots has been out for >4 months, and placed in a very closed apartment on the second floor. I have never seen them until 2 weeks ago. So where would they come? I don't have any gnats currently (have that before and successfully eliminated with Gnatrol), but I have to admit that I got bites at night, not sure if it is related or just mosquitoes.

Hi! thanks for that Texas A&M link. it's got some useful information. Ok, its been about a month since I first posted my request for help, so here's an update on my bin and fungus gnat problem: -the BEST thing I did came from a suggestion from a non-worming friend who suggested mosquito netting. So, I made an "envelope" out of a 4'x6' piece of mosquito netting--I just folded it in half and sewed up the sides, put the whole bin inside and tied the top shut. That way, while I 'm doing battle with the fungus gnats, noone else in the house is bothered by the little critters. Plus, I KNOW the gnats didn't come in with the food--they must have been visiting my basement and happened upon the very inviting habitat of my worm bin and decided to take up residence. This way, the mosquito netting keeps gnats that are outside the bin, out (while it keeps the ones that are already in,in). -I put fairly big drainage holes in the bottom of the bin, since I think most of my issues with the worms have come from it being too wet. -I'm using BT--(Knock out gnats from Gardens alive). It kills the larvae. It says you need to do 3 applications, each a week apart. I'm on application #4 and I still have some adults, but it's much better than before.(I had had a really bad infestation). Since you have to drench the bin with the BT, the drainage holes are REALLY important. -I add lots of dry shredded newpaper each time I do a treatment. It helps get rid of some of the extra moisture in the bin. I take out the old wet newspaper and replace it with dry paper each time I open the bin.Since its so wet in there, I do have little white mites, but they're not too bad. -I made stick traps out of old toilet paper rolls and white (or yellow) fly paper (not the super sticky stuff, that's too messy, but the moderately sticky stuff that comes on a long roll.) I cut the tubes in half and staple 2 together to make a nice solid base, thhn I wrap them with the sticky paper. I put a couple ot these on the top of the lid of the bin (outside the bin, but inside the mosquito netting). They catch a fair number of gnats and let me monitor my success in the gnat-war. -I'm messing with the worms less. This is a bit of a bummer, since I liked frequently checking on their progress, but with the mosquito netting in place, spontaneous visits are a little more difficult. But the worms are happy, happy, happy. Very busy munching large quantities of food. -I'm willing to do one more BT treatment, and then I'm going to pull out the big guns. I have a no pest strip that I really don't want to use, since its so toxic, but I will if I still have adults after the next treatment. -when I feed the worms or do a BT treatment, I use a small vacuum to suck up fungus gnat stragglers. It's a pretty rewarding sport. Ok, that's probably more than ANY of you wanted to know, but I thought since you were all so good about providing suggestions, you needed to know the current status. Have a good weekend! slego