Just pinch off and deadhead the flower. Cutting further down the cane is not required. Then empower yourself and get a good beginners book on growing roses such as 'Roses for Dummies'. There are better books, but that will at least cover the basics. Google can also be your friend. This post was edited by the_morden_man on Tue, Jun 25, 13 at 21:37

Regarding the watering issue, I've had real good luck container growing tomatoes and bell peppers by taking two plastic soda bottles per each - the larger ones they sell at my local quick stop, believe they are 20 ounces. The first bottle, using a pretty small drill bit, I drilled holes in the cap and neck of this bottle. Cut the bottom off of both bottles with the second one cut mostly down to a lip and the neck. Place this second bottle over the open bottom of the first and fasten in place. I used duct tape. With the neck with holes down in the dirt, you can unscrew the cap and fill the bottle with water. I usually let this drain out and wait until I can stick my damp finger in the soil and find it comes out with dry soil stuck to it before refilling. I got this idea from something my grandfather did, which was to use full 2 liter bottles in his garden near each planting of tomato, bell pepper, watermelon, etc.

Like MTO, I am not a container expert by any means, but I have grown some plants in containers, so here is some additoinal information: Container plants will need watering more often than tomatoes in the ground, probably daily or more often in times of high temperatures. Dig down with your finger about 3-4", is the growing medium wet, dry, or just right? If it is wet, don't water, if dry then water. If it is just right, check again the next day. If the medium is very dry, normal watering may have no effect on it, the water will just run off the top and down the sides of the container then out the drainage hole(s). In that case a slower delivery method is needed to allow the growing medium to absorb the water. That is the principle behind those glass watering globes you see advertised. You can slow the delivery down by taking a large plastic container (a gallon milk jug, or even a 2-liter bottle, you'd just have to repeat more with a smaller container) and make a very small hole in the bottom so that it just drips and place it in your planter and fill it up. Repeat as needed until the growing medium is thoroughly moistened throughout the container. Mulching the top of your container with compost, straw, hay, rotted leaves, grass clippings, even shredded paper or sheets of paper or cardboard helps maintain a consistent moisture level. Plants that are grown in any kind of container will need feeding more often than plants that are grown in the ground because each time they are watered, the water run off carries away vital nutrients. Many container growers will use a dilute solution of a liquid fertilizer every week or two depending on the condition of the plant. You can get more information on growing in containers over in the container forum. Betsy Here is a link that might be useful: Container Gardening Forum

Jeff: I didn't mean to criticize you for deleting the post, I meant to complain about how the Houz version of the site is different from the old Garden Web. In answer to your question about what happens next, it takes about 6-8 weeks from the time a flower forms until it becomes a ripe fruit under ideal garden conditions. It's not unusual for the first flowers that form to fall off without forming fruits. Early girls can ripen a little sooner than beefsteak type tomatoes. Also, I would encourage you to stop worrying about a few bugs. Ants and grasshoppers won't hurt your plants, but too much hot sauce or dish liquid might hurt them. As someone said earlier, you're more likely to have problems with diseases than insects, and home made insecticides can make your plants more likely to get diseases by damaging the leaves.