Thanks everyone! That's a lot of information, and all good. I have (after a LOT of searching on the internet) found a nursery in a neighboring town that carries the E.B. Stone products. So I think I'll take a little trip next week up to Modesto and get some of that. They have it in a 3-Lb. box and also in a 10-Lb. bag. I did consider the sharing-with-the-neighbor idea, because our neighbor has a large lawn, in front and back, (we have none) - but he also has back trouble, and he's so nice that I know he would try to help with that 50-Lb. bag and probably hurt himself. Good idea, though. In fact, all these ideas are good. We are moving to Sacramento sometime this year, and I'm clipping some of these answers for future reference (who knows what young and helpful neighbors may await us?). Thanks again!

Jeri made me laugh, that was funny! Humor is badly need in this forum. Dry air is made of 78.09% nitrogen, 20.95% oxygen, and the rest of argon and carbon dioxide. That explains why poor drainage wet clay soil can turn roses yellow ... the roots can't breathe. My Eglantyne rose was yellowish, until I fixed the drainage. MiracleGro potting soil comes with enough nitrogen for 3 months. I had one geranium in MiracleGro and was annoyed that the leaves are so dark green with few flowers (I don't fertilize that pot). There's one pot that I ran out of MiracleGro and put 1/2 garden dirt in ... I actually like that geranium better: it was shorter, more blooms, and lighter green leaves ....easier on the eyes. A friend asked me about phosphorus, so I'll post the info. here: The NPK value of oak leaves is 0.8 /0.35/ 0.15 Maple leaves is similar to that, so it's twice higher in nitrogen than phosphorus. Once decomposed, the value of phosphorus rises. Most decomposed organic matter is high in phophorus, such as sewage sludge at NPK of 2/ 1.9 / 0.3. Animal tankage (manure without the fat and gelatin) with NPK of 8 / 20 / 0. Other high sources of phosporus are rock phosphate and bone meal with NPK of 4 / 21 / 0.2. Drawback of rock phosphate and bone meal: they can only be utilized at pH at or below 7, according to University of Colorado Extension. Since I'm lazy in pruning I would rather sacrifice top growth for more root and flowering, or less nitrogen and more phosphorus. Leaves and stem store plenty of nitrogen, and unless the plant is completely yellow, there's no need for nitrogen. Even then, fixing the drainage and fluff up the soil with organic matter helped my roses to green up without the need for chemical nitrogen (also highest in salt). Adding air to the soil by making it fluffy is the cheapest way to give nitrogen to roots, considering that dry air is made of 78.09% nitrogen. Composting scraps from kitchen is another cheap source of nutrients, considering Cantaloupe rinds has NPK value of 0 / 9.77 /12.0 ... high in phosphorus and potassium. Potato skin has NPK value of 0 / 5.18 / 27.5 ... also high P and K. Nothing beats banana peels in potassium, with NPK value of 0 / 3.25 / 41.76. Potassium is need to counteract the salt in manure, and to fight diseases. This post was edited by Strawberryhill on Wed, Feb 20, 13 at 11:48

UFA Prostock brand in northern Alberta sells 20KG bag for $12.99. Turns out these are the dehydrated Alfalfa Pellets made from freshly harvested alfalfa(dark green color), packaged for UFA by http://www.alfatec.ca/alfalfa-products.html , and have higher protein, more nutrients, grown locally compared to the Suncure Alfalfa Pellets made from baled alfalfa hay sourced further away. Was told alfalfa, even if not organic, is never sprayed with any chemicals(not economical) after the first year unless for grasshoppers. First time using alfalfa pellets last year in the garden soil and later as a liquid fertilizer noticeably improved our vegetable yields. Here is a link that might be useful: UFA source for Alfalfa Pellets - dehydrated

No problem with the questions...sorry for slow response, been busy painting the house. Now there is a job I hate. I love organic, but it's not a short term deal, it might take a few years to get your lawn "back to nature" with some headaches along the way and it's not cheap. At least for me and the wife watches me like a hawk when it comes to spending. Be careful about going overboard on the lawn. It's just the lawn and don't get carried away tossing money into it. To me, my first choices is CGM but too expensive, then SBM, but could not get it, then Alfalfa, corn meal. CGM - You have to put it down when the temp is above 50 for more than 5 days...check on the web..there are a few organic lawn sites that give advice on this product and timing. I put it down during March, but that is for Central Fl. You can put CGM down anytime you want, but be careful about watching out for cynch bugs if that is a problem in your area. I put it down in March and late Sept. (Of course, don't put it down in the snow, depending on your area). CGM worked great against crabgrass, I did not have a problem. When I used the lawn service, wham, I got crabgrass and other weeds that they can't defeat anymore. The restrictions on the commercial lawn spray companies is preventing them from using what works to what might work. Alfalfa is cheap where I live. 14 dollars a bag from Farm City, but they won't order the SBM anymore due to low demand. It was 34 dollars a bag 2 years ago. Last week I found a lady out in farm country that sells grains on the side and she said she could get SBM for 19 dollars a bag which is pretty good price. Corn meal is a weaker fert. but a lot of people claim it prevents fungus problems. I put it down a few times and still got hit with fungus, but Florida to me, is difficult for lawn care so I think fungus is a never ending problem. It's not cheap going organic, but I really liked the results I got using this process, except weed control. CGM controls some, but not all weeds so you will still go out there and yank them. Also, if you can get a soil test to give you a basic starting point that is a good idea. Then dethatch you lawn. I did not do the dethatch thing and regret it. The machines are cheap, 120 bucks off Amazon. Then, if you can get the CGM, put it down as a prevent for the weeds. Figure out your temps for you area. You can always toss down the alfalfa. I like the smell, and it is small pellets so just toss them by hand and water them in. Wait a month and see if the CGM greens up the lawn, which is should. Then in June try SBM. It's a lot of fun to see the results and I tried different products on different areas of my lawn. The area between the sidewalk and the street has always been a headache for cynch bugs due to the heat. Also, I put some of the alfalfa pellets into old milk jugs and let it sit for a few days, boy does it stink, then poured the stuff on the base of the various bushes and trees. One thing I did notice was my oak tree really "greened up" going organic compared to my neighbors trees. Don't store any of these grains in your garage, house etc..buy them, use them same day or next. If not, mice etc..might find them..also they might have bugs in the grains so never store them, buy them and put them down. I'll search around and see if I can find that really good organic site I used to read. Now those guys...they got it down...lost that url when the computer crashed.