Tom, I can't vouch for its accuracy but short of personal logs, the size info contained in the plant files area of the Dave's Garden website is the best I've found to help in planning what size you might choose for any variety.

Here is a link that might be useful: Dave's Garden

Thanks Dave. Have not used "your garden"? much. I registered there long ago, but am too "cheap" to pay to discuss gardening with fellow gardeners, so have never tried to access anything but the "free" portion, which, as near as I can tell, is worth exactly what you pay for it.

Tom

Tom, Its not my site nor am I a member but do use it for varietal research.

Perhaps I should have 1/3 each 18", 24" 30"? Stack them nested in three's?

I like that idea and wish I could do it with all of mine. But I have plenty space to stack them over the winter - just doesn't look all that great. ;)

But all of mine are 24" diameter, a size that works fine for all but the rare monster plant and even does what is needed for most of them with some support stakes.

Dave (it's not my site either ;)

Mine are a combination of 19 and 21" roughly.....or 10 and 11 6" squares or CRW. They work perfectly for all of my indeterminates. No need to go bigger than that. Just wasting material at that point. Don't forget that one square will be used to connect the ends together so you would need to cut 11 and 12 square lengths for 19 and 21" diameter cages....

60 / 3.14 = 19.11" or 66 / 3.14 = 21.02"

{{gwi:1325657}}

I don't know if its because I'm doing well or poorly but plants over 8' are common for me.

At a 19" dia. you could cut an 8' piece from a 5' roll and form the circle the other way using hog rings for the connection. Hmmm.

Its kinda natural to try for a one size fits all world but it is rarely the case :-)

Obviously an anchor stake or two would be needed.

Hmmm.

Tom,
I've never constructed a 30 inch diameter cage which area-wise would be roughly the equivalent to a 3ft X 3ft square and canÂt think of a time/plant/variety when I wished IÂd had one. Seems almost all of my tomato plants would first require staking if they were inside a cage that large.

The majority of my cages have a 21" diameter. If I needed new cages, IÂd probably make them all 23 inches.
Terry Light
Oak Hill, Virginia

FYI....
54 linear inches of CRW (9 - 6"x 6" squares) = 17inch diameter
60" = 19"
66" = 21"
72" = 23"
78" = 25"
84" = 27"
90" = 28.5"
96" = 30.5"

Dave, I've made a few tall cages the way you've said. A couple 6 and 7 footers for the larger cherry varieties that can get well above the 5' ones. Works well, but definitely tougher to handle trying to bend the mesh opposite it's natural way.

~~~ but definitely tougher to handle trying to bend the mesh opposite it's natural way. ~~~

Rolling a barrel with water as ballast over the wire works wonders to help with that.

~~~ but definitely tougher to handle trying to bend the mesh opposite it's natural way. ~~~

Rolling a barrel with water as ballast over the wire works wonders to help with that.

tdscpa
I have some of nine panels (6x6) some of 10 panels, and some of 11 panels. I think 10 panels is perfect. If you need to go higher, just add on. It will all tie together some way or another.
Bill

My choice is Burpee, (or many others) that offer the square cage. They are sturdy; fold flat for after season and will last for many years.

Here is a link that might be useful: www.burpee.com

Ouch!!! That's $95 for (4) 6ft tall cages from Burpee!

Hi Mark.

I can't imagine why anyone would want to spend that kind of money on those burpee cages. If you want tomato cages that are 3 1/2 feet tall, go buy the cheap wire cages they sell at walmart or home depot for $4 a piece. One 50' roll of mesh will yield 8 or 9 five foot cages 19" in diameter for $45 and they'll last 15 years or more.

Thank you all for your replies. I have not yet decided what to do, cage size wise. Have spent two days working on tractor hydraulics. I think I have diagnosed the problem. I may need a $ .60 part. Probably will have to order from Texas. $ .60 part, $9.95 shipping. Heading out soon to visit local auto parts store. Maybe check with a couple of implement dealers 35 miles away.

Tomato cages: I grew several last year that outgrew my 30" diameter cages, but I don't think I will make any more that big. When (if) I get my tractor fixed, I will inventory present cages and see if I can standardize on 10, 12, and 14 square size. That would provide approximately 19, 23, and 27" diameters, and I think I could stack them in nested sets of three. Maybe I could even stuff a couple of those inside my existing 30" cages.

None of mine will be over 5' high. I just let them flop over the top. That top growth comes so late, it won't form any tomatoes that will ripen anyway. I could top them, but that would just be extra work. But it might make it easier to get the cages off come clean-up time.

All of my cages get anchor stakes. The cages, not the tomatoes. I use re-bar driven 18" into the ground, two per cage. Without those, no cage would stand up to our 70mph winds.

Tom

Bargain of the year!!

Neither of our two parts stores or our auto dealership had the part I needed. (A metric "spring pin"). So, I called a John Deere implement dealer 35 miles away. They use in their small tractors an engine made by a Japanese Company (Yanmar), the company that built my entire tractor.

I called them on their toll-free line, talked for quite a while with a parts guy, and held while he looked for the part I needed. He said he had it, so I told him I would be over to get it, but it would take a while, because I had to drive 35 miles from Hill City. He said hold on, he lives in Hill City, and would bring it to me after he got off work. I asked him to bring me two, since I was afraid I could shear another one before I got the limiters adjusted. Anyway, he delivered me two, and handed me an invoice for $ .58. I handed him $10, and told him I wanted to buy his gas to work tomorrow (Friday).

He said he could not accept it, and over my protestations, gave me change for a one dollar bill. I finished my installation about 2:30 AM, but decided against firing up the tractor, as the rest of the neighborhood was dark.

So, the "smoke & fire" test comes today. If it smokes or bursts into flames, I may have to go back and get a new tractor from these people. That will not be near the bargain.

Ten days later:

Tractor is fixed! Garden is tilled. Thirty three tomato plants were planted. Four have already been broken off by hail and wind. Most of the rest look very yellow (and bald) from hail and four or five inches of rain and daily forty mph wind. I am going deaf from the constant blaring of the tornado siren the city parked just behind my back yard. Finished my eleven new tomato cages, and reduced the diameters of several old ones, so I am now standardized on 10, 12, and 14 square circumferences. (~19", 23", and 27" diameters). Now I can nest them and hang them on my fence in the space 11 would have taken.

Today, I need to make 14 new pepper cages, and do an anti-rain dance so my garden can dry out enough I can plant everything else I need to get in the ground.

Tom

I built my cages the way that my MIL and her mother built theirs. 10-12 squares but instead of using anchors, we snip off the bottom wire and that leaves the vertical wires looking like spikes that we shove into the ground.

No advice on the storage. We just set them up in an out of the way area.

This may be a tad OT for this thread, but this is the first year we've used the 6X6 wire cages. What is the proper way to train them up the cage??

tndandelion:

My cages were like that the first year. But, I found out the first year, that will not be sufficient in the 70mph wind we get every year. Ever try to stuff a five foot tall, bushy tomato plant back into a cage (that can only be re-installed from the top) after the wind has laid the plant horizontal and pulled the cage off? Fun.

The second year and since, they all got two 1/2" re-bar stakes driven 18" inches into the ground on opposite sides of the cage, wire-tied to the cage. The wind has been unable, so far, to knock them over.

I do not remove the bottom horizontal wire, except for one section on opposite sides of the cage, which I use to lay over my drip tube that runs down the rows of tomatoes. I cut one end of this section, and bend it down to stick it in the ground. I put my re-bar stakes 45 degrees from these openings. This preserves the full 5' height of the cages, and makes them a little more stable.

Storage is a major problem for me. Everything inside my exterior fence is building, driveway, sidewalk, lawn, or garden. Maybe after I buy out a couple more next-door neighbors, I will decide I have a big enough garden, and want to set aside some outdoor storage space. But, I refuse to mow any more lawn or control weeds on "vacant" space.

Tom

hidesert windy:

I think tomatoes are too stupid to train to climb. I just go down the tomato rows every few days and "help" the branches up over the next higher horizontal wire they can reach. As these branches grow and the plant matures, they will wedge in very tightly, and the plant can not move, but, it will never "climb". But, you might need a crew of three or four to get the cage off at the end of the season.

I use a hedge trimmer at the end of the season to clip off the branches that extend outside the cages so I can lift the cage off.

Tom (hi-plains windy)

Go for Concrete Reinforced Mesh wire for cage. link below

Here is a link that might be useful: Concrete Reinforces Wire

I would recommend my setup but you might laugh. :) But then, most garnders are creative.

Start with 20 inch pot with 5 foot lowes bought tomato cage. When plant out grows plant lay PVC, wood or anything else that will keep the vines off the ground. It isn't pretty, but I am having a good time eating them! :)

I just tie two of the heavier gauge lowes cages one on top of the other. Worked very well last year for everything but my Sunsugar but I can't imagine anything would have contained that monster. It's actually still growing. I can't seem to kill it. I don't even water it anymore and the thing just won't die. Temps in the mid 20's this week may finally finish it off.

I use mostly 21" CRW cages with the bottom row cut to make spikes (with about 1/2" wire left at 90* to the bottom of the spike for added retention.) They sink in to the next layer of uncut wire when placed in soft, moist soil. That sacrifices 6", but still gives plenty of space for plants to double back down. Heavy producers still require stakes to anchor the cages against high winds--2 rebar 18" into the ground usually is enough.

The vines can be "woven" by training them out above the 1st wire, in over the 2nd, etc. You can also alternate them right & left if you want. Small pruning shears make short work of the vines after frost.

Diameter is not the only variable. Vigerous, long vine plants are good at 1 plant to a cage. Moderate plants grow well at 2 per cage, a few work well with 3 each.

I have grown tomatoes for 37 yrs and tried many types - the cheap ones from home deport bend and fall over - the ones I made using concrete reinforcement - can make any size but ht is too short etc - the square fold ups stil a little flexible - finally 6 yrs ago bought Texas tomato cages online 6 18" dia for $89 and good for spindly russian tomatoes and 24 " for $99 good for full large plants - you can also buy 2 ft extentions for tall plants

fold up during off season and have added a few every year - also use green tree stakes 6 7 or 8 ft lenghts until I can buy all Texas Tomato Cages - works for me

Here is a link that might be useful:

Any questions ????

This is my Orange Strawberry on 18inch cage, heavily pruned to only about 10-12 stems. One of my cage felt down also. I am going to buy some 24 inch cage this year so I don't have to prune so much. But the retaining wall makes it difficult.

thats one tall orange strawberry plant!!

Two questions, where is the water in the pool it's going to pop out, and didn't your mother tell you to where shoes and not to walk around outside in your socks!!!!!!!!!!!! :)

My DW would be chasing me with a shovel if she caught me doing this! lol

Spent 1/2 hour composing reply to this this thread thanking everyone for input. It disappeared when I hit "post". I am sorry for not responding sooner to this thread. Had health issues last year. Glad to be able to try to post this year.

Don't want to spend much time replying to a site that is so flaky, but want to thank digdirt. He knows 23" diameter is the right size. That agrees with my findings from 2008.

Tom

lightt

Thank you so much for providing that information on how much CRW is needed for various sized cages.

I tryed the stake and weave method last year and it was a mess.

I ordered 7 24" Texas Tomato Cages and will use them for the first time this year. They added an extra one to their six pack for shipping.

Mtbigfish.....you seem to have it all together with lighting and cages.

John

Since we've got CRW cages, and PVC cages here, I was wondering if anyone has tried this: three or four bamboo sticks (say 5-6ft tall above ground) with galvanized steel wire hoops attached to them somehow every 10 or so inches up the poles. The wire would be that heavy guage, rust-free stuff you can buy in coils for like $6 or so. I have a lot of .5 in thick bamboo pools which I got for free.

I am only going to plant about 4 or 5 indeterminant plants that would need these tall cages in my limited space, so I figured this was more cost-effective than buying a huge roll of remesh, or concrete remash mats for $7 each. Do you think that bamboo stakes with steel hoops attached would make a decent cage?

If tying the hoops would be weak, maybe drilling holes in the bamboo and threading the wire through it? Then again, that might split the bamboo. Whatever, If it works out, I'll try to get some pics of these contraptions.

Plantslayer,

I used some banboo ~1/4" dia. last yr. as tripods in some lg. containers. Dropped a center line of bailing twine down and tied it to the bottom of the plant. Wrapped the plant around it as it grew but also used twine to form the rungs of a cage. Worked well.

I plant my tomatoes in medium-large pots(20-30gallon). I use the 2"x 4" fencing that comes in 4ft and 5ft heights and 100 ft in length. It can be purchased at Lowes and/or HD. I make the cages 6-8 inches larger in diameter than the pots. When finished you can easily cut the openings to suit yourself for harvesting. I like the 2x4 inch fencing because it is so durable. I have been using most of mine for 11 years and they are still as good as new.

For what it's worth, here's my set up:

It's made of 1.50" diameter pvc (painted red so it doesn't look so industrial)...I string up my plants (notice cleats on the frame) but can also florida weave...this year I'm going to make a removable "raincoat" for it so I can protect the bed from the torrential rains we usually get right about the time my toms are ripening (notice the drip irrigation tubing snaking out from the bed)...

I'd appreciate any ideas on how the best way to construct my "raincoat"....

~~~ I'd appreciate any ideas on how the best way to construct my "raincoat".... ~~~

You could cut n fit tarp material to size and fasten it with velcro but it will put significant wind load on your system.

Would screen or a screened lattice over the top work for your "raincoat"? Neither would shunt all the torrents but might cut them down considerably, as well as weakening their pounding character. (Some say rain is good for tomatoes, washes off dust and debris, etc.) If left in place, they'd also work as a semi-sun screen during the hottest part of the day if you needed that.

I use 6 ft tall cages with 2 ft diameter. Works well for me.

Here is the picture from a site which also describes similar strategy.

Here is a link that might be useful: http://yourhomegardenblog.com/vegetable-gardening/constructing-tomato-cages-using-wire-mesh

Today my 5 year-old and I built six cages out of CRW. I found it quite easy. A bolt cutter works great for snipping the wire. To hold the cage together, I temporarily used zip ties and then fastened with hog rings. Much easier than bending wire. I did snip the bottom "ring" off to make vertical stakes, but I imagine I'll still use a fence post or rebar to anchor them into the ground. If the plants get taller than the cage, I don't think it would be hard at all to add an extension to the top or the cage. Over all, I am very pleased with how they turned out.