Lots of great advice here! the procedures and depths vary per state. You should call before you dig, every dig. I do not recommend taking pictures for future reference. If you're planning a project, just call or go online and enter a request. This is the safest (legally and physically) way to dig. Generally you can dig in the area where underground lines have been marked. However, you MUST use extreme caution and preferably hand tools. Don't go hacking away with a backhoe on top of a marked area. www.call811.com will provide ALL information needed (FAQ, local information, and helpful tips). HIGHLY RECOMMENDED. THIS IS THE 'GO-TO' SITE PRIOR TO DIGGING. Here is a link that might be useful: CALL811.COM

What is meant is aeration of the water or nutrient solution such as that seen in aquariums with airstnes that are connected via tubing to an air pump and that serves to push air into the solution producing gas bubbles that rise to the solution's surface. The point of this is to agitate the water and to create a current in the water that moves the lower water upward more rapidly than would be the case in a passive nonaerated solution that would depend on temperature gradients in order to produce a current of flow from the cooler lower levels to the warmer upper levels. What is generally accomplished by aeration is to induce a higher concentration of oxygen into the water while increasing the expulsion of carbon dioxide. Check out the link for access to a pdf treatment on this topic. Here is a link that might be useful: Aeration in hydroponic gardening-a Chinese site

Frost tolerant plants are basically those that like to grow in cool weather and can survive freezing temperatures, like the greens you've mentioned. While they can survive frost without being covered, they will experience less stress and be happier if you provide some covering that will protect them from harsh changes in temperature. All the greens you started can make it through extremely cold temperatures. They winter-over in my hoop-house, surviving sub-zero temps and frozen ground. The key is to protect them from cold, dessicating winds and destructive freeze-thaw action using some kind of covering. In Zone 6, you should be growing cold hardy greens outside at this point. They would do well, covered with a row cover or other protective covering that can release heat on sunny days. Since you've planted your starts indoors, be sure to harden them off for a week or so before you plant them out -- they certainly won't be frost tolerant until they've had a chance to get used to outdoor conditions. Unlike the greens you're growing, many of the vegetables we associate with summer -- tomatoes, peppers, cucs, melons, beans -- are not frost tolerant and will sulk in cool temperatures. That's why it makes sense to take a 4-season gardening approach -- grow each vegetable in the seasons they like best. In other words, don't wait until Memorial Day to start your spinach!

There are still a few assumable mortgages floating around out there. It sounds like you've found one. It's easier to explain by example, I think...so here goes: Asking Price of House: $200,000 Assumable 1st Mortgage: $150,000 Payable to Seller: $ 50,000 The advantage of the old assumable loan was that most were written so that whoever "assumed" the loan didn't have to qualify. They just starting making the payments. The advantage there is obvious...it's a way for people who have cash but can't qualify for a mortgage to purchase a home. That said, there are also "assumable" mortgages that DO REQUIRE QUALIFYING. But, there may still be an advantage. If, for example, the original mortgage was placed mid-summer of '03...then the rate may be around 4.75% which is quite a bit lower than you could get today. A purchaser wanting to assume a mortgage has to pay the seller the difference between the selling price & the amount remaining on the note that is secured by the mortgage. In times of severely declining real estate markets...the seller may have NO EQUITY. Again, as example...the property may only be worth the outstanding loan amount. In this case, a buyer would apply with the lender to assume the mortgage (if there is a "qualifying" clause) and then just begin making the payments. The lender would issue new coupon books (or, most likely arrange for the mortgage payment to be automaticallly withdrawn from your checking account each month). So, if there's equity in the property you need a down payment (that would be the cash going to the seller). If there's no equity in the property...then there's no down payment. And, it could mean that the value of the property is BELOW THE AMOUNT STILL OUTSTANDING ON THE NOTE in answer to your question. You would need to be quite certain of the market value of the property before entering into a Purchase & Sales Agreement. However, some people who can't qualify for a loan might agree to pay a higher amount for the property because otherwise they can't buy at all. Although, I don't believe there are many "no qualifying" mortgages left out there. I might be wrong on that...but I don't think so. It's been years since any were written without the qualifying clause. Hope that answered some of your questions. Tricia