Forgot to mention that where the top end of the slider on the ruler is, is where the soil level is. It seems like I had to dig down pretty far to get to the root. I STILL didn't get down to the finer roots.

No one asking anyone to read ALL those replies. If you do not want to know what we know, skip our replies. On a new thread or topic, we will come over & reply & you will be back where you are now. jolj(7b/8a) henry, I am going to try solarization on my bahia grass. 90% of the things on this thread will not eradicate bahia grass. This includes round up, which kills the tops, but not the deep roots. Round up will not kill nut sage/ nut grass or common dew berry vines. So I will try this on the bahia. I have heard that the solarization may kill the soil food web, when it kills the weeds. I am planning to sheet compost the beds after I kill the grass/ weeds. I have been told that tilling kills the soil food web. Not sure who is right or if it matters, I give vegetables away every season including the winter. I grow more then I can use, then I must be doing something right. [Like[(https://www.houzz.com/discussions/organic-way-to-get-rid-of-bermuda-grass-dsvw-vd~1521679) I did this in 2011 & it worked great.

Hi Don: Thank you for an excellent question, I wonder the same. In rainy spring I had Gruss an Teplitz rose in the shade, it was infested with aphids despite the granular gypsum (calcium sulfate) in the pot. Hi Khalid (RoserianPK): Thank you for that info. about Neem. That's very interesting! I appreciate your input both from your hot climate of Pakistan, and your recent relocation to Canada. Later I found that gypsum from Menards doesn't dissolve, and gunk up after months. I have Sharifa Asma in partial shade, it's infested with aphid. I gave it soluble gypsum bought for $8 for 5 lbs. from Kelp4Less (free shipping) ... Instant result: thicker stems and leaves, and no more aphids. Gypsum contains 17% sulfur, great for my pH 8 tap water and pH 7.7 clay, but not good for those with acidic soil and neutral tap water. As the pH drops, less potassium and calcium available for plants. I accidentally induced aphids on Christopher Marlowe when I gave it too much sulfur, leaves became thinner, stems became less rigid, and more succulent for aphids to chew. Calcium chloride is used in canning to firm up fruits and vegetables. Calcium chloride is documented in agriculture for better root growth. It's higher in salt than gypsum (salt index of 8), but calcium chloride is fast-acting. There are better forms of calcium, depending on your soil /climate /tap water: Gypsum provides 22% calcium, 17% sulfur, with salt index of 8.1, used to de-salt sodic soil, also to neutralize bicarbonates in alkaline tap water. Dolomitic Limestone provides 25% calcium and 10% magnesium, salt index 0.8, sandy soil lacks magnesium Calcitic limestone provides 36% calcium when the rain water (pH 5.6) breaks it down, low salt index 4.7 Colloidal rock phosphate provides 19% calcium and 18% phosphate. Best for acidic soil, cannot be utilized at pH over 7. Hard rock phosphate provides 48% calcium and 30% phosphate, cannot be utilized at pH over 7. From EarthCo. soil testing company booklet: Steamed bone meal has 11% phosphorus and 24% calcium. Bone meal cannot be utilized if the pH is over 7. Superphosphate provides 20% calcium, 12% sulfur, and 20% phosphorus, low salt index 7.8 Wood ashes provides 20% calcium, 2% phosphorus, 7% potassium, magnesium, and all trace elements. CAUTION: Wood ash is very alkaline, pH over 10, will burn roots if applied directly to plants. Below is an excellent research by Texas Agricultural Extension, documenting how SOLUBLE calcium increases ammonium, phosphorus, potassium absorption, and stimulates photosynthesis and plant growth. Here is a link that might be useful: Using soluble calcium to stimulate plant growth This post was edited by Strawberryhill on Sun, Sep 8, 13 at 13:06

Yo Ken, if your still around your up on this one. Far as Composites go I am with the Larry/whoever We are for the most part. Composites are really no longer using recycled material because there is just not enough of it so most of the raw stuff is virgin,the energy used to make composite is an enviro no no, when its time to remove the project composite is not real big on bio degrade its tricky to burn shreading it would be silly. Bottom line composites are not so enviro freindly. Info like that might suggest its not all that good to clean it either, with anything. I dont agree>> composites will out last Ipe, left to go silver/gray Ipe is as close to no maintance as a person can get. With the softer composites like Choice/MoistureShield even trex= tjunk I have found a coat or two of TWP 116 seals up the decking,locks in the color and keeps mold,mildew,stains from causing major problems. Of course not needing to do this is the reason the Wallet goes for composite in the first place. I my own self dont like composites at all for the reasons stated in several posts here and on other sites. Welcome aboard Larry!!! Sorry I dident understand your intent at the begining . John