If I had that many plants I would get one tested that you suspect of having fusarium. It may not be that at all or if it was I would want to know for sure. I paid $20 for diagnostic lab results that confirmed TSWV. Probably offered thru local university or extension. I don't understand why more people don't do this for SERIOUS diseases --but the majority of posters here seem happy just to guess or let others guess for them. Please don't take this wrong--I know people want opinions when they post here but if you grow alot of plants I would not rely entirely on internet diagnosis (but that is just me!). Best of luck with your plants.

Thanks. MD no longer does soil testing. Even when they did- no testing for diseases. I asked the Coop extension where to get plants tested and they said it is not offered to private individuals. Great help eh?

Thanks,
Beth

That does stink--if I find a place I will let you know.

This has been a tough season for growing tomatoes...In NC it was warm early...with...sudden cold evening weather...many planted early...wanting that First Tomatoe...only to have those plants suddenly die from wilt...I have been growing tomatoes for over 30 years...NEVER had this problem until this year...We have moved after being in the same location for 30 years...I think it is the new soil...plus the cold weather that has effected my tomatoe plants...All were VFN varieties...The tomatoes were just full and lush...only to die within days...it is frustrating...my reasearch has found...NO cure for this problem...Never plant tomatoes in that soil...YUCK>>>>...soooo...throw away any effected plants...try to...solarize the soil...maybe even use some hydrogen peroxide in the area...that might work...Since I planted VFN varieties...My problem might be more drastic...I'm not going to plant tomatoes in that soil again...just to be on the safe side...BooHOO

Well, I've got some tomato plants fading fast from what I believe is
Fusarium (Carolyn- we've talked about this before. No it doesn't make sense
that all the plants are not affected. I just don't know what else it could

Beth,

Fusarium incidence was up in NJ not this past summer but the two summers before, and many thought it was due to the warmer winters and Fusarium not being killed in the winter.

A good friend, a lawyer, chased this down in NJ with the help of the Rutger's folks and last I knew Rutgers was trying to determine what Fusarium races were involved.

So no doubt there are pockets of Fusarium in MD and Craig has mentioned that even tho he knows his backyard garden is Fusarium contaminated he always has some varieties that do better then others.

I can't make a diagnosis of those wilt diseases where there are foliage color changes just from a picture, nor can I see the internal structure of the stems which might ID one as being either Fusarium or Verticillium.

But both have pretty much the same prognosis.

Farkee wrote:

Please don't take this wrong--I know people want opinions when they post here but if you grow alot of plants I would not rely entirely on internet diagnosis (but that is just me!). Best of luck with your plants.

Farkee,

I can give opinions for some things and for others I can diagnose factually, as can you and a few others.

But the point is, the resources that others might have to help them is highly variable depending on where they live.

Above I talked of my lawyer friend HES who worked with Rutgers re possible Fusarium in NJ and you have no idea what he went thru in trying to get the live material they wanted in the condition they wanted, to the lab.

Soil analyses for pathogens? Few do it and when they do they charge big bucks.

Most Universities and Ag Colleges and Coop Ext are geared toward the large commericial growers b'c the charters for most ag colleges demanded that and although historical, it still obtains. Yes, sonme have outreach programs for home gardeners and info for home gardeners, but it isn't their main mission.

my farmer friend Charlie is commercial. He can call the Cornell Coop Ext and they will send someone out to make an onsite examination of problems and take specimens as needed.

Carolyn Male calls with her hundred or so plants and she is not going to get the same service, and nor should she expect it. since everyone knows or should know that some folks grow for a living and others don't.

Going to most nurseries to ask? Very dicey indeed and I've seen some real zingers here and elsewhere as to what folks have been told at nurseries.The folks doing the growing are not the ones usually working as clerks outfront.

I spent time one delightful summer being the "diagnosis and help lady" at a local nursery, for perennials, annuals and veggies. What great fun.

My maternal grandparents had the largest nursery in the capital district area of Albany, Schenectady and Troy for many years, and summers I worked there on certain weekends while I was still in HS.

A terrific learning experience especially on the perennials and annuals.

We had enough of the veggies at our own farm. LOL

Carolyn

Beth, anyway you could provide several close-up shots of infected branches ? The pic i looked at is too Distant, to be able to closely peruse. From a Distance, it's hard to say, because the symptoms appear to be upon early growth(old growth). Need a better pic, to try an respond, accurately.

DirtDigHer: The best tomato garden I ever had was the year that I solarized my garden. I was a brand new newbie and didn't even know that garden forums existed. So I had to research on the web on how to start a garden. Following directions from one of the sites, I laid down black plastic about 2 months before planting anything, and then I took up the plastic and planted all my seedlings, mulching with newspaper. I planted 52 tomato plants (a lot for a newbie!) and 48 of them survived. I had no disease problems at all that year, and very few insect problems or weeds. My biggest problem was having clay soil, and not knowing how to water for clay soil. After that year, I found garden forums, and everything that I read on those sites, were totally against
solarizing soil--said it would ruin the texture of the soil. But you know what, since I stopped solarizing my soil, I have had nothing but disease problems since then, and I don't even use the same site for my garden. This year, I am planning to plant cover crops and then covering them in black plastic before planting time and hopefully I won't have as many problems with diseases and soil after that. Just a thought.
Sheila

Beth, have you tried to slice into the stem on a plant you are planning on removing to see if you see the brown streaks that is supposed to be a characteristic of fusarium according to the information on the disease websites.

I did find this for Maryland residents but you probably already know about it. Probably worth the $5 to let them see it personally.:

Maryland program for home gardeners:
Home and Garden Information Center. This is primarily a telephone service, but for a $5.00 fee, samples will be examined.
Home and Garden Information Center
12005 Homewod Road
Ellicott City, MD 21042

Hi Shiela, wanted to let you know that researchers used to say use black plastic but they have done studies that found clear plastic was better. Black heats up alot but the heat is not generated below as well as the clear.

Information on solarization----(u of fl)
"Solarization
Solarization is a process of using heat from the sun to kill nematodes and other pests. The soil should be worked with a hoe or rototiller to break up clods. Remove all sticks, roots, and clumps. The soil should be moist, but not wet. Cover the soil with a clear plastic tarp and bury the edges of the plastic. Leave the plastic on the soil for at least 4 to 6 weeks. Do not remove the plastic until you are ready to plant.
Sunlight goes through the clear plastic and heats the soil underneath. The plastic then holds in the heat so it penetrates the soil. Long-term exposure to high temperature kills nematodes, as well as many weeds, fungi, and insect pests. The disinfested zone is usually 6 to 8 inches deep. Because it depends on sunlight and heat, solarization works best during the summer months. This fits well into the Florida growing season where vegetables are grown in the cooler seasons.

The benefits of solarization may be enhanced by using a second layer of plastic suspended by wire hoops. An air gap is created between the two layers of plastic giving extra insulation. Also, weeds that penetrate the first layer may then be killed by heat trapped between the plastic layers."

Thanks, all. The good news is that two of the plants seem to have overcome the problem. No more wilting, and they've set toms. The one aunt ginny's is gone, as well as a black from tula and a gennovese. I did look at the stem of one and it does show brown in the vascular layer. Fakee- thanks for the resource- it's a little far for me, but I didn't know about it. At least I have toms that are resistant (eva purple ball has never shown wilting- I've got 12 of em! I'd be really sad if I couldn't grow cherokee purple! And carbon- a new one for me -looks just as good) Now if they would just ripen....

Thanks,
Beth