Rapid wilting of plants when they need no water, accompanied by NO change in foliage color can mean one thing, while more gradual wilting with leaves turning yellow then brown then dying can mean other things. And in the posts above that's what I'm reading, so not all your problems are the same and thus really deserve to be in a separate thread to make it easier to discuss, I would think. Root Knot Nematodes, for instance are found in very few geographic areas. I'm running out of time here and will continue addressing the problem posted by desert gent tomorrow. Carolyn

lehua13 given your description I think we can rule out heat stress. As far as water stress goes a plant can be stressed by either to much or too little water. The soil should be slightly damp but not soaking wet. Here are a couple of things that may help..... You have leaf miners. If there are not to many of them then just pluck off the affected leaves. The ones with squiggly lines. Put them in a zip lock bag and dispose of them. Another alternative is pesticides. If you prefer organic you can try 1 table spoon of Neem Oil per Gallon of water. Add a few drops of soap to the mixture for a wetting agent. Spray the whole plant along with the tops and bottoms of the leaves. Repeat every 4-6 days as needed. The time to spray would be in the late afternoon. If you do not have a preference for organic pesticides there are better none organic alternatives. If the container is not protected from the sun in some way it should be. Think about how hot a bottle of water gets sitting in the sun. Way to hot for plants, right? If the reservoir does not have a hole in the side to let excess water out then the proper thing to do its to drill one. Stop flushing. Its stressful to the plant. Its something thats done as a last resort to compensate for a massive over fertilization. Its meant to get something out of the soil. Not to put fertilizers in it. Remove any dead leaves. They are a perfect place for molds and fungus to start growing and thats a bad thing.

Doesn't look like Blight to me, Usually yellow leaves with brown edges means water stress. Also Later in the season I think some leaf branches will just die off naturally, especially near the bottom of the plant. I see no mulch and weed competition, so I would say water stress + the age of the plant. Clip off the yellow and dying leaves, Add some mulch and see if that helps. For a home fungal spray, Add the following to a gallon of water. 2 Tbl Spoons Baking Soda, 2 Table Spoons Veg Oil, Few drops of Dishsoap. Spray on the tops and bottoms of the leaves and the stems of the plants. CH

The streaking starts on the top of the fruit and goes around the top (not up & down). It's as if someone used a razor and made little slits around the top & I see the results with the brown marks left behind. The inside of the slit/streak mark is whitish/light. I cut off the damaged fruit this morning. Is the entire plant infected? ***** Tx, what you've described very well is not streaking, rather, it's called concentric cracking, is not an infection and is perfectly normal for many varieties. There are basically three types of splitting: Concentric cracking where there are circles around the stem that have split open and then healed and scarred over. If there's heavy rains they can reopen and normal fungi and bacteria in the environment can enter and cause rotting. Radial cracking also appears at the stem end and here the cracks radiate out fromn the stem rather than be in concentric circles around the stem. Horizontal cracking is splitting that occurs anywhere's else on the fruits and is due to uptake of too much water when the fruits are at their mature size and can't expand any more, so cracking appears. I didn't take the time to look at your new photos but every time someone says sunken fruit spots I tend to think of anthracnose which is very common towards the end of the season. But I'll let those who look at the picture make their more informed comments. ( smile) Carolyn