While searching this topic, i found the following article. Sounds like my method in bags would be similar to the "white tunnel in the farm" Anaerobic Composting By Compost King 13 Comments Bokashi_Anaerobic CompostingAnaerobic composting or composting without the presence of oxygen has been practiced for centuries. Records indicate that the Chinese are the oldest known civilization to practice this form of composting to fertilize their rice paddies. In more technical terms, anaerobic composting is composting organic materials, using living anaerobic organisms such as bacteria in an environment that has no oxygen present. This is the same process you will find occurring in nature as peat bogs and marshes. Unless you happen to have access to a large field of water you are going to have to find another way to create your anaerobic compost pile. While most composting experts will talk about not letting your compost piles get too wet or they will rot, anaerobic composting requires approximately 70% moisture levels in order for it to work properly. The Standard Compost Pile You can turn your current compost pile into an anaerobic one quite simply and effectively by adding plenty of water. Yes I know we have spent hours telling you how important it is to maintain moderate to low moisture levels, but with this type of composting you need to remove the oxygen from your compost pile. The water will drive out the oxygen and keep it out if you keep the water level high enough. By covering the pile to help keep in the moisture, you will end up with a slimy mess, which indicates that it is working properly. You should however, be prepared for a very odoriferous compost pile. This is really more suitable to households with larger tracts of land where the aforementioned odoriferous pile can be placed away from the house or the neighbors. The Submerged Pile This method of creating anaerobic compost is very similar to that which is has been in use by the Chinese for centuries and involves keeping your compost under water. For this you will need a large tank, plastic pool or tank that is big enough to hold your compost and then be filled with water. As your compost pile decomposes the odors are trapped in the water. While slightly more involved than a standard anaerobic compost pile, your neighbors will certainly appreciate it. anaerobic composting in a fieldThe Big Bag Theory You have probably seen this method in use in the local farmers’ fields, this would be the long white bags that lay in the fields over the winter. This version is a little simpler and a lot smaller. You can use a large heavy duty plastic garbage bag. You first layer the bottom of the bag with soil or cured compost, then add your compost and add enough water to make everything moist. Seal the bag so that no air can get in and roll it to get things started and then leave it alone for 6-8 weeks. No Hole in My Bucket Off all the different forms of anaerobic composting, the bucket method is perhaps the easiest and least offensive. This is a long term project and will take up to a year to create the compost you are looking for. You simple cut the bottom from a five gallon bucket and plant it a few inches into the ground. You then fill it with your scraps and organic waste, place the lid on it and forget it for a year. Do not open until the year has passed or you will let in more oxygen and ruin the process. As you can see a fair amount of patience is required for this method. At the end of the year you will have perfectly usable humus. All of these forms of anaerobic composting work well, some will produce more compost than others, while at the same time creating a rather smelly situation.

I found this on the web. "Although dog and cat manure both contain organic nutrients useful to plants, neither is safe to use in soil containing food crops. Both contain parasitic pathogens that are harmful to human health. Dog manure can contain the eggs of Toxocara canis (the common large roundworm), which can also infect humans. It's estimated that 90% of young puppies are infected with this worm-many are born infected-and up to 50% of all adult dogs. The eggs can be transferred to the human mouth by a person's fingers or from foods that have been in contact with dog feces. Toxocara eggs can remain viable in the soil for up to 10 years depending on environmental conditions. Because no information is known on the effects hot composting has on Toxocara eggs, it also unsafe to add dog manure to compost heaps intended for food crops. If you have a dog feces problem in your garden, remove the feces and take care to use good hygiene practices (thoroughly washing hands and vegetables) to avoid possible contamination." Also, google a search on "dog poop/feces garden." A gardenweb search will find opinions as well. eg...Kelly Slocum from the vermicomposting forum advises strongly against using/allowing dog feces in the garden.

Hi Nashville! I'm just a few minutes south of you in Franklin. I'm new to this rose addiction too, but have some New Dawn climbers that have been in for a year and are very happy. The rest of my roses I ordered in small bands this spring and they are hanging out in pots until they get a bit bigger. I'll probably plant those in another month or so when the weather breaks a bit. I have a new house and all I've done is amend my clay soil with copious amounts of (mostly) composted horse manure. I double dug my beds, added in the compost and now just use it as a mulch/top dressing. The perennials I've been putting in since I moved here have been doing great. The clay found here--if you can fluff it up and keep it from compacting--is actually a pretty great growing medium. That's what adding organic matter will help you do. Here around Nashville we're in the "Central Basin". As a geological area it stops just north of the city, but extends South down below Maury county. It's a different geology than N. Alabama so it's not really the same red, gritty clay. It's been recommended to me to try Teas and Tea Noisettes (I'm more interested in the Old Garden Roses.) You also might want to check your zone on the new USDA maps. I discovered myself that Nashville moved from 6b to 7a. Which makes us a little more hospitable to some of the roses that like warmer conditions. Rabbit poop is suppose to be great in your garden. I've never used it, but know people who have used it straight without composting with no problems. I also know people that have successfully put fresh horse manure on their roses. If it were me I try it on just a few things and see how it goes.

I prefer large breeds of poultry, since they cannot fly high, are thus easier to fence in, and tend to be calmer in temperament. Chickens need enough room to prevent boredom. Mine have 1 1/4 acre, and they can be destructive if they get interested in an area. They can dig up trees, and they kick away mulch for fun! Delawares are very quiet, gentle and pretty. I got my new chicks because I really like the adult I bought at this year's Fair. Hens lay on average, 5 eggs a week, each. No rooster is needed. They start laying at 4-5 months and can go on for up to 8-10 years. Commercial layers are killed as soon as production eases up, but for a backyard flock, one egg less per week is not a big deal. I keep mine until they die, or I place them in another home, or something kills them. Chickens taste good and have no defenses, so it is up to owners to keep them safe. They will stay in a fenced-in yard, no problem, unless the fencing allows them to slip through. They need a *secure* coop to sleep in, with perches and nest boxes. No rooster is needed. Hens lay without male influence. I have only had one incidence of mites/lice. A puny Banty pullet moved right into my coop, snuggling under a Buff Orpington. She came from the neighbors, who have animals in appalling conditions. I took the stray to my vet, she was crawling with lice and mites.. We treated her, and dusted all the other birds, the coop and replaced all the shavings (beding material). I bleached the entire area. The hens were peeved at being dusted, but they are clean and have been parasite free ever since. I think having a few hens for fresh eggs is an option every homeowner should have. They are great for recycling (they eat everything leftover) and their droppings are terrific fertilizer. They are also very entertaining! Lisa