Hman, I remembered the discussion about Tactic vs. Nufilm, but last year I had a hard time finding Tactic around here, so I went w/ the Nufilm. I was going to order a case of Nufilm for next year, but re-reading our old discussion does make Tactic sound like the superior choice. I will say my experience w/ Nufilm is that it seems very sticky, but our previous discussion seems to point to the superiority of Tactic. One thing that nags me (quite a bit) is that Nufilm has a PHI which is apparently due to it's supposed extending capabilities. In other words, the PHI is not for the sticker itself but because it's supposed to extend the life of the pesticide it's protecting. Obviously, in most cases, chemical companies try to get the shortest PHI approval on their label. I don't understand why NuFilm would have a 30 PHI, while Tactic has 0 PHI. I know enough about pesticide registration that the companies themselves would have had to do a lot of their own documented research during the labeling process. "Olpea...could the PHI on the sticker just be about encapsulating the spray material and not so much the sticker itself? If it is, I guess it is some indication of it's effectiveness. Olpea do you feel a sticker is advantageous when combining with oil? Wouldn't the oil act as a "sticker" in and of itself?" Apple, The 30 day PHI is not about the sticker itself. According to the label, Nufilm can be used up to day of harvest if used with pesticides which have a 0 PHI. This tells me, the EPA has no problem w/ folks eating NuFilm, but that they are worried the pesticides sprayed along w/ NuFilm won't degrade on the crop according to predicted rates. I wouldn't use a sticker w/ oil. Some labels don't recommend it. I've used oil w/ other pesticides, and it does seem like it provides some wash-off protection, although I've not read any studies on it. Oils also provide spreading. It's probably the emulsifiers in the oil that break the surface tension which causes it to act as a spreader.

Some vital points made about how location can affect the need to spray fungicides. As can weather and it is our weather that led me to spraying this year. While we normally suffer from high temps and high humidity both, it is normally dry (as in minimal rainfall) and chronic diseases like septoria and early blight are normally found at tolerable levels here. But the past 2 years,and this one so far, have been markedly different here with almost constant daily rain - enough to rapidly bring the lakes up to maximum flood pool - and little sun. Plus it has been inordinately cool. Those conditions are ripe for the common diseases. So I am electing to spray this year - not out of any fear of late blight, but just in the hopes of controlling the fungal and bacterial diseases to a degree. You see it doesn't have to be and either/or issue - spray or don't spray. Just as many of us here are compromise organic gardeners, many more than get credit for it since we aren't organic purists, one can compromise on this issue too. If you feel that fungicides are dangerous, even the organic-approved ones, then you can always consider applying them only early in the season when the weather is its most risky and before fruit has set. Or only apply it during a period of severe weather change, or only after signs of disease to control if not prevent. There is gray, not just black and white on any issue. So, Big Daddy, after reading your message I would feel horrible spraying anything on my tomatoes. Joy I'm sorry you feel that way - "horrible" - since it reflects on those of us who choose to use fungicides. It is your choice of course. But I am curious as to how you can come to that conclusion about fungicides yet justify to yourself the use of Sevin in your garden? I am always amazed at the number of gardeners who accept highly toxic chemicals to kill bugs, any bugs, yet find disease controls unacceptable. Is it just because we find bugs ugly? Or because they are alive? Makes little sense to me since diseases pose a much greater threat to the garden than do the bugs. And it is especially difficult to understand when the disease controls, in general, are rated as much less toxic than the pest controls. But to each his own. ;) Dave

For aphids: I use 1 tablespoon of Dawn dish soap in 1 gallon of water, lightly mist the insects, do NOT drench the plants, and I only spray in the early morning or after sundown. Too much of any spray especially if sprayed in the bright sun will hurt the plants. You can use the garlic spray if you wish following the same rules but I have never found it to be as effective. Safer Insecticidal soap spray is organic I think and seems to work well. But your problem is the "worms" you said - actually they are most likely caterpillers (moth larvae). The soap and/or garlic sprays aren't really for them. You need Bt dust or liquid for them. Bt is sold under several brand names, the most common is Dipel. Dave Here is a link that might be useful: Bt Dust Info

You can also use Bonide Fung-Onil. Both the Ortho and the Bonide have the same concentration of Daconil. Some stores carry the Bonide but not the Ortho. ****** YES!!! bcday knows that I'm growing quite a few tomato varieties that are new to all or most b'c I send her the seeds for same and she does most of the seed production for SSE listings, etc. So like a jerk I called my local Agway Saturday not remembering it was a Holiday and also called the local hardware store; they weren't home either. This AM I called Agway and at first mentioned Ortho Garden Disease Control, they had none, Steve called the main warehouse in PA and they were totally out and said they did expect some in in about two weeks. So then I mentioned the Bonide Fung-Onil and Steve actually had a pint of it in the store and NOW! I kept saying thru this whole conversation that I wanted the 29.6% chlorothalonil and he kept asking me to spell it and then said he had copper spray which says on the side Blight and I said no way. he said you really do know what you want, don't you. LOL He was not in the mood to be told that Daconil acutally blocks the LB and fungal foliage receptor sites on the leaves.( smile) Then call Freda, Freda will pick it up tomorrow and then we see if my pump sprayer is still alive, but if not, she can use the 2 gal watering can just as well. Everything will get it, the tomatoes, potatoes, cukes and squash, the latter two primarily for mildew and Daconil is great for mildew. I'm just not willing to take a chance on the special tomato varieties I'm growing but I can't get out there with the walker to even see if anything is going on with the tomatoes. Freda will do that tomorrow, but then there's more rain, heavy T storms predicted today and tomorrow, so we may wait until Wednesday to spray. Carolyn