We put 1/4in drainage holes in the OSB for the bottom (like picture on pg 58 in All New SFG book) and had planned on setting it up on bricks to keep off the ground. The sides of the boxes are just regular 2x6 untreated wood and are painted white on the outside as well as the top of the grids too (no painted part will touch soil). I hadn't thought about termite issues and having wood boxes...duh! The shed had em about 6 years when we purchased this house. I like the cardboard and newspaper ideas, but the husband has spent a lot of time getting the boxes ready and I know he'll be upset when I tell him to not use the bottoms. Also, I just took all the excess cardboard to the recycle center a few weeks ago...so it'll take another 1-2 months to accumulate enough to cover :-( I was thinking maybe covering the OSB on the bottom w/some plastic sheeting (like a tarp but see through) and securing it with a staple gun around each drainage hole? I noticed in the FAQ for SFG that some use the plastic to line the sides of the boxes too so that the wood lasts longer so that made me think about using it for the bottom. What do you all think about plastic sheeting covering the OSB bottom (where it would touch soil)? April

The boards were not any heavier than some fresh wood I bought at Lowes to finish the boxes. I do feel slightly relieved after reading your responses. I inspected the box where they were crawling after work today and didn't see a single bug, but it was also lightly raining. I'm actually a bit perplexed as the wood for that box is mostly new and of the old pieces.. I don't see any 'iffy' spots, holes or rotting. I actually moved that box and replaced it with another box in the same spot (lettuce sprouted in the ground there last week and it's too early to not protect them). Looking over the 'infected' frame.. I didn't see any structural damage and not a single bug anywhere in or on the wood. When it dries out, I'll see if they return. So I should look for knots and hollowed-out parts on this wood? One other possibility...I collected pine needles last fall for compost materials from a random neighborhood close to where I work. Maybe they came from there? I have a couple plastic bags of these needles under my deck, so I better inspect those too. The good news is that if they try to eat the treated wood that comprises my deck (arsenic) it'll be the last piece of wood they ever chew. Do the queens lay eggs and move on? Maybe the warmness in the boxes allowed them to hatch?

I posted this some weeks ago in another thread, but I think it's worth repeating: Not to be an alarmist, but I absolutely wouldn't use boiled linseed oil on anything that would come in contact with my food. Raw linseed oil (flax seed oil) is fine, but boiled linseed oil contains various heavy metals that speed the drying time (raw linseed oil can take weeks to dry). http://missouribootandshoe.tripod.com/id41.html "Use of this product will expose you to arsenic, beryllium, chromium, cadmium and nickel, which are known to cause cancer; and lead which is known to cause birth defects and other reproductive harm."

Pulpo - I would like to share my thoughts with you, concerning gardening work ethics. There are all types of gardeners out there, and each one has a different work ethic about them. Please keep in mind that i'm attempting to give you useful information, and not belittle anyone for their efforts.... I respect all gardeners, including you. You have : 1. Some that plant a few seeds, and just expect something to grow, with basically minimal input. Believe it or not - sometimes they have remarkable output. Others work their butt off performing the various necessary chores, and fail miserably. 2. Some that live in a location where all of the favorable criteria is present for pest infestations, short growing periods, successes and failures based on all kinds of parameters. 3. Some that plant gardens whole-heartedly, when in reality - they really don't have the time available in their daily schedule to take on such a chore as this. Like the others said, there are all kinds of parameters involved. Everyone of us has a different success/failure story, and it changes every year. We can only tell you about our individual gardening experiences, and what is involved. I have 136 sqft to garden, and work 50 hours per week at my regular job. The personal demands that I place upon my gardening success is beyond the average gardener, because for me - failure is never an option. In the summertime, I tend to it at least 4 hours each day - solely for handpicking various pests, and watering everything. Because of this, my garden is probably 80 - 90% successful. It should be better next year, because of all of the knowledge that I gained this year - with this new method, as well as different vegetables grown. But, it could also average worse, because just as sure as I get one of my problems from this previous year solved, another,different problem will show up next year. I will say this much....you did yourself a favor by choosing some of the more easier vegetables to grow and maintain. Cucumbers will require hand picking of cucumber beetles, lettuce and swiss chard should be a breeze with a weekly application of BT. I really can't comment on the other veggies......Just don't fill all of the boxes with squash plants.....you'll end up with a squashbug infestation that will likely make you turn the entire garden into a towering inferno - then calmly go to the nearest bar to drink your sorrows away. Personally, I feel that..... If I didn't have my regular job to go to each day, I feel that I could easily keep 960 square feet maintained as well as my current garden, but then again - my motivation and drive is probably 5 times that of a normal person. That's why I get so many things built. Maybe this is of some help to you.....If not, i'm certainly sorry. You asked a very complex question, and we are only trying to give you information. EG