If the 10 in your reply refers to USDA zone 10 conditions, then there are 100's of groundcovers you could use in the gaps between concrete pads with drip irrigation. I am assuming you used in-line emitters with 12" or 6" o.c. spacing or soaker line. I would suggest things like Isotoma fluviatilis, Baby Tears, Dymondia(best with more sun and let somewhat dry in between irrigations),Dwarf Mondo Grass, Irish or Scotch Moss, Australian Violet, etc, etc. I hope that you have this area valved separately from the other drip within the garden, because in such a limited space you don't need more than just a few minutes daily to keep it well watered, and if it is drip connected to other drip areas, you are probably watering much longer than that. You might also consider using mexican pebble laid on edge and mortared in place as an alternative to ground cover, as almost any ground cover will eventually require clipping and grooming to keep it neat, which I suppose was your reason to remove the grass. If you do want to explore the grass look alike options, Carex pansa or Zoysia grass would also be good options, and require less clipping on a weekly basis than fescue or other cool season grasses.

This is a 48'x80' shed that I am building. I am just using it to give you a visual idea of what you could do with the existing pad. If you wish to use the pad but make the shed larger than 6x10. Say 10x12 for example. Dig down below the surface of the outer edges of the pad (much like digging a ditch) to the desired size. Measure and set the post to the size shed you want. On the bottom outside of the post nail 2X's (4,6 etc) so that they are level with the pad. Then fill the void with gravel base and then concrete to make the entire pad level. Build the shed. You can go back later and paint the pad which is now your floor to make the finish even between old and new construction. Once I have the roof finished on my shed. I will go back and remove the grass and run a compactor over the surface. Lay a bed of compacted gravel over that. Then nail 2"x6"'s level around the outside of the post. and pour the concrete using them as forms. The yellow triangles are to show how this will be done. This does a few things. It allows me to drill the post and run rebar rods through them to covered with concrete. Makes the walls even with the outside stringer. Places the siding out away from the concrete pad 1 1/2" for drainage (stringer will be even with the pad making it weather proof). Adds another 6 inches of support to the corner post on two sides and three on the side wall post. Just an Idea of my way of building sheds for you to consider.

I made my first 4x8 bed the exact same way (cinder blocks), with a very similar slope. Here's what I learned: 1. Depending on your winters, the blocks may heave by spring, so you may have to fix them. Not a big deal, just keep it in mind. 2. With ANY slope, you will have runoff. The peat repels water if it's on a slope. If you can;t correct the slope, I'd use Mel's suggestion of saucer-shaped depressions around the base of the plant, and watering by hand. Otherwise, within a month you'll be losing your water to the low side,where more of the mix will gravitate to as well. I don't mean to be a downer, but I wish someone would have told me this before I set mine up that way! Unfortunately, most of my yard slopes, so this year I'm building boxes and levelling them with cinderblocks. Hope this helps!

We put 1/4in drainage holes in the OSB for the bottom (like picture on pg 58 in All New SFG book) and had planned on setting it up on bricks to keep off the ground. The sides of the boxes are just regular 2x6 untreated wood and are painted white on the outside as well as the top of the grids too (no painted part will touch soil). I hadn't thought about termite issues and having wood boxes...duh! The shed had em about 6 years when we purchased this house. I like the cardboard and newspaper ideas, but the husband has spent a lot of time getting the boxes ready and I know he'll be upset when I tell him to not use the bottoms. Also, I just took all the excess cardboard to the recycle center a few weeks ago...so it'll take another 1-2 months to accumulate enough to cover :-( I was thinking maybe covering the OSB on the bottom w/some plastic sheeting (like a tarp but see through) and securing it with a staple gun around each drainage hole? I noticed in the FAQ for SFG that some use the plastic to line the sides of the boxes too so that the wood lasts longer so that made me think about using it for the bottom. What do you all think about plastic sheeting covering the OSB bottom (where it would touch soil)? April