You'd be better off watering much less often, but watering longer when you do water. The goal is to provide about an inch of water each week, either from the sprinkling system or from rain, or a combination of the two. It's best to get it all at once, but since your lawn has been getting frequent water, you may need to change gradually because the grass probably has short roots now. Get some empty tuna cans and set them out around the lawn to see how much water you're providing, so that you'll know how to give the amount you need. The time the sprinklers need to run varies from one system to the next, and the only way to tell for sure is to measure the water that is being applied. I would cut back to three times a week (increasing the amount of time you water each station), then, after a couple of weeks there, cut back to twice a week, again increasing the amount of time for each station. After a few weeks at that, try to cut back to once a week, applying an inch when you water. If you have clay soil, you may need to do it in several cycles. I water for about 15 minutes per station, then let it sit a few minutes and do it again, then a few minutes after that, I do it third time. That way, the water has a chance to soak in and not run off.

go to a nursery and buy a cheap water meter and stick the probe deep into the planter and water when it reads between moist and dry. Without leaves, keep them on the dry side. As leaves grow increase water to match the number of leaves. You will be surprised how slowly a large planter dries out. Bill

Hi eskimogardener, If you go to Yahoo.com register or join, then you can type in Aloha Plumeria Group and it will take you right there. mimi will tell you in Hawaii they do not use root hormone because it is not needed. She told me that I could use it but she didn't think it was important even for me but she did say that BOTTOM HEAT and tropical temps would be what was the most important aspect to get them to root. I didn't listen to her, both on the rooting method she suggested and the rooting hormone. I tried t he baggy method and I failed. I think if I had put them in a baggy and then put them outside when the temps here got warmer, I may have had roots form. I just decided not to risk it. Once I had them root with the raw egg method, and NO ROOT HORMONE, I decided just to stick with what worked best for me. What surprised me the most was how fast the cuttings started to root. the first one was my celadine which made me extremely happy. The celadine had grown an inflo while I was trying to root it. It only took about three weeks once I put it into a pot with the egg to get it to grow roots. I do realize that when it comes to rooting, many enviromental factors can affect the time it takes for the roots to grow. Mimi had told me that my two pudica cuttings would root first and they actually rooted last. Good luck with the egg method. I really think you will be surprised with the results. you can use an egg in just about anything you plant up too. I have a friend in Vancouver who put eggs in the bottom of the pots she planted tomatoes in. Good luck with the rooting and please keep us posted. I really want to know how well it worked out for you. I just got a new cutting about two weeks ago from a women that I met on the Aloha group so I will keep everyone posted as to how long it takes to root. Andrew

If it truly was the "best damned worm composting place" we would not be unpaid slaves working to fill somebody else's pockets with traffic for ad money. But other than that I agree. There is a tribe somewhere where when the men come back from hunting they do not walk into camp noisy and triumphantly. They sit around the outside of the camp a bit away for a day or so observing. Then when they are back in the rhythm of the camp and know they would not be disturbing it they quietly return. Possibly it is enthusiasm that stops this procedure of looking around for a couple of minutes before bursting with excitement for the topic. I'd say growing into the name is still a work in progress. "1/2 pound and would require around 4 oz of food, but they didn't say how often" is a play on "worms eat their weight in food a day". But with a bit of tempering because that figure is under optimal conditions. It also fails to mention or consider bedding which is of equal or really more importance. Does the 4 oz include bedding which the worms also eat? Please ask the source of that information for me because I have always been confused. With out knowing anything about your bin or even seeing it I can categorically say add half the amount of food you are presently and tripple the bedding. Time is your friend. The worms will work for you, (as we do for this site), just sit back and let the multiply and in time collect your easily gained vermicastings or worm babies. *horrified face at worm babies. Worms just happen to be where we ply our trade. We could do this with dust bunnies. This post was edited by equinoxequinox on Mon, Apr 14, 14 at 23:52