Hi dj, First, thanks for telling us the most important info, pressure and flow. Items to consider in designing a system is the overall amount of water you would need to apply when plants are in the mature growth stage and your root balls are at their maximum. A good thing is that you have done it for three years. At the plants maximum growth period how often and how long did you irrigate? Also how many zones did you create for your 28 rows? Type of water distribution system that can deliver that amount of water in a reasonable time. Drip tape and emitter lines have rates of flow per foot of length in their selling literature. We can use that to design your system utilizing your source flow rate. What are you using currently as your source of water? Have you measured your flow rate filling up a 5 gallon bucket and timing the fill? 50-60 psi is excellent pressure but high for a drip, soaker hose and T-tape system. Have you tested your pressure with a garden hose-end gauge at your hose faucet? The is also a good way to check your house water pressure. Did you have any ruptures with your soaker hoses? Soaker hoses lasting a couple of years is very good especially with hard water. You will have the same problem with emitters but less so with t-tape. Your length of drip lines is long enough to be economical to buy. Do you have a vacuum breaker on your line? Another consideration is your type of soil. Different types create different wetting patterns with drip. Is it good draining(sandy)or is it poor draining(clayey)or somewhere in between? Are you very water conservation minded and is that the most important aspect of your system? Or is it cost? Everything will be compare to your current system. What did you pay for your soaker hose per foot? Have you priced out the different types of drip lines and fittings? Do you want the system automated? An option that has done well for 1,000s of year is furrow irrigation(faster delivery shorter duration) or pvc pipe with small hole drilled into it(designed by trial and error method). These methods don't clog up, cost way less and are easy or non-existent when you are preparing the soil for a new crop. Drip is only important if water is at a high premium and scarce or you have a strong inner desire to conserve water or have the latest in technological advances($$)to impress others. Your safest way is to have a professional landscaper design and install the system who you could call and have redo any problems at his cost. Like most of us on here at Garden the joy of gardening is learning and experiencing our mistakes and learning some more. JMHO. Aloha

EDIT: apparently the boxes I "drew" out aren't going to work, and I can't get to photobucket from work, so I'll try my best to decribe. First 4'x4' box: 1st 9x9 squares will be 2 zuchinni plants like suggested with carrots and lettuce as the border Top right - garlic 2nd row, all the way to the right - more carrots 3rd row, all the way to right - eggplant (staked) Bottom row (left to right) - pole beans, pole beans, bush beans, eggplant (there will be a trellis here on the north end of the bed) *eggplant squares will be bordered with marigolds Second 4'x4' bed: 1st row (left to right) - strawberries, strawberries (bordered with thyme), lettuce, lettuce 2nd row (L to R) - strawberries, strawberries, spinach, spinach 3rd row (L to R) - peas (bordered with marigolds), peas, cucumber, cucumber (bordered with dill) TRELLIS RUNNING BETWEEN THIRD AND FOURTH ROWS 4th row (L to R) - peas (border = marigold), peas, cucumber, cucumber (border = dill) Last box 3'x6'long: 1st row and second row (L to R) - broccoli (two squares checkboard), cabbage (two quares checkboard), cauliflower (two sqaures checkboard) - east side by broccoli is bordered by dill, west side by cauliflower is bordered by rosemary, and the south border by broccoli/cabbage/cauliflower is oregano 3rd row (L to R) - sweet onion, yellow onion, brussle sprouts, brussel sprouts, red onion, and garlic Potatoes - I picked a few "bulbs" up at Lowes...decided I'd try them in an old plastic trash can we have lying around Strawberries - also thought I'd try these in a bucket hanging by our deck...see which ones do the best. Watermelon and pumpkin - going to try to grow along the back of our house. For some reason, things grow like crazy there without touching them (threw in some dying tomatoe plants and herbs there and they turned right around and flourished - who knows) - set up trellis along the brick and see what happens. Zuchinni - our neighbors grow enough that I don't want to take up a 9 sq ft section in our garden, but I did buy the seeds. Figured I'd plant them in two large galvanized tubs we have or two large plastic tubs we have (probably 25-30 gallons in size) and set up a trellis for them on the side of the barn. They'll be on the east side of it. If it works fine, if not, no biggie. My only two things I have left to find a spot for are the basil and cilantro (even though I know it probably won't grow well). I also need to figure out what spots will need to be planted twice (like lettuce), but as long as I can, I plan to plant the same crop again. Hoping this is a little better at least. WDYT?

I want to thank everyone for their help and for encouraging me to get rid of the old pantry wall. That has made for much better layout of the space. I think I need to change the title now though, it's not so tiny and cramped now. LOL We've been busy and the offending wall is now gone. =) The bedroom door has been moved to the living room wall. We have been able to move the woodstove over against the right wall using some elbows in the stove pipe. What do you think of the following layout? (the 10ft. wall is not built, all other walls and doors are as shown) I like the booth type seating, which will probably be 2 benches and a table. I have moved the freezer to where I had the fridge since it was in the pantry. Then moved the fridge next to it. (It would be recessed into the wall behind so would not stick out quite as much as shown.) Pantry storage will be replaced by the cabinets next to the fridge. Microwave would sit in that area too. It gives us more wall space in the living room. I know it sounds weird, but we are mountain bikers and need some wall space for bicycle storage. =) Yes, they live in the house. LOL Let me know what you think!

well you ask if used cabbage that would grow to big for square foot spacing. I told you. if read the square books there two concepts you seem be missing square is not just one plant or several plants of same type in 1 foot x1 square. the standard square foot box is 4ftx4ft for adults and 3ftx3ft for kids. there several spacing sizes for vegetable plants that take more or less space depending how they are grown or the vegetable variety type in square system. if wish I will post page number and book source source of each examples below. example 1 : {zucchini trellised or grown around string is spaced 1 plant per square foot. zucchini grow flat 3ftx3ft in square foot bed. example 2: { early season short height sweet corn 4 plant per foot spacing as a #4 on dice mid season medium height sweet corn 2 plants per foot spacing as a #2 on dice late season tall height sweet corn 1 plant per square foot spacing as a #1 on dice } There are a lot rules in square method but if understand the flexibility designed into rules you can use them properly. The author/inventor of square foot gardening was engineer. Which means scalar design is built into system. there also lot tricks that you can use if read the books carefully to deal with larger vegetable plant sizes. I could post some diagram to explain them to you ;but t you have shown a lack mastery of system and I don't time to explain it all to you "grasshopper".